4" or 6" lift? This is my first Jeep, so many options.

[WILDHOBO]

Agree 100% on the drive the stock setup for a while and get a good baseline for how it rides. Bigger tires and lifts will not improve the ride from that baseline. Based on how you say you drive, stock is perfect. If you’re after a beefier look, do 35s (no lift required). Just my 2 cents.

I do agree. It drove great stock, and was capable of a lot. I lifted it specifically to fit 37’s, but because I wanted to do much tougher trails more easily. But it won’t get bigger. It’s reached the limit of still being drivable on long distances.

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[KohalaHutch]

I’ve owned 3 jeeps and rented a bunch too, but my new Gladiator is the first one I’ve lifted. If I were you I’d start with no lift and 35” tires and invest in protecting the pink parts with a skid plate system. That will let you offroad most trails, just not the crazy lines. My current Gladiator on 37s is for farm work and fun, I wouldn’t commute in it.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I’ve owned 3 jeeps and rented a bunch too, but my new Gladiator is the first one I’ve lifted. If I were you I’d start with no lift and 35” tires and invest in protecting the pink parts with a skid plate system. That will let you offroad most trails, just not the crazy lines. My current Gladiator on 37s is for farm work and fun, I wouldn’t commute in it.

I hear the 35 argument to help decide, but not everyone wants to buy $1500 worth of tires, just to decide whether they want the $2000 tires. Then to need to sell the used 35’s. That’s ultimately what happened with me. I originally planned on 35’s to avoid regearing, but didn’t want to hit the trails and have remorse, which would ultimately cost me more in the end.

Edit: if I didn’t enjoy rock crawling so much, it would have stayed a stock rubicon forever. It’s so well polished in my opinion. Lifts and tires should have a purpose, knowing that it can be very good, but will always drive differently then stock. Give and take.

 

[KohalaHutch]

In my case it ended up being $2,000 tires and about $10,000 in wheels, suspension, regear, shocks, etc. I was really surprised by the domino effect of expensive reinforcements to take on the additional strain of the oversized tires.

 

[Barnaby’sdad]

I’ve owned 3 jeeps and rented a bunch too, but my new Gladiator is the first one I’ve lifted. If I were you I’d start with no lift and 35” tires and invest in protecting the pink parts with a skid plate system. That will let you offroad most trails, just not the crazy lines. My current Gladiator on 37s is for farm work and fun, I wouldn’t commute in it.

I’d argue that unless OP is just looking to build a mall crawler, skid plates should be the first priority.

In my case it ended up being $2,000 tires and about $10,000 in wheels, suspension, regear, shocks, etc. I was really surprised by the domino effect of expensive reinforcements to take on the additional strain of the oversized tires.

Yup. Whatever you think it’s going to cost…pretty much double it (and then some). Unless you’ve built something similar before or you have a buddy that has (can offer you good advice about what to buy and what to avoid), you’re going to spend more than you expected.

 

[WILDHOBO]

In my case it ended up being $2,000 tires and about $10,000 in wheels, suspension, regear, shocks, etc. I was really surprised by the domino effect of expensive reinforcements to take on the additional strain of the oversized tires.

Yep. Either 35’s or 37’s would have gotten the same approximate 3” lift. But 37’s added gears, different rear track bar to fit the spare, and front RCV axle shafts. Not a small amount of extra to do those things. Greatest setup ever though.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I’d argue that unless OP is just looking to build a mall crawler, skid plates should be the first priority.

I agree. The first big thing I ordered (not including bumper and winch), way before the lift and tires, was the belly skid. Funny though, because of supply chain issues, it’ll be the last thing that gets bolted on.

 

[The Welsh Griffin]

Gasser ? 35's , Mopar 2" lift
( Keep the warranty )

Diesel ? 37's, Tereflex 3.5" lift
(Money no object)

My 2 cents ...

 

[NachoRuby]

The only reason to lift is to fit bigger tires. You don't gain more ground clearance by lifting (differentials still sit between the axles) though you do get more breakover, approach, and departure.

At basic level, this is true. Practically though, the axles and diffs aren't the areas where I'm needing ground clearance (currently on 35s). It's mostly the frame where I'm looking for clearance, and the areas that scrape and get hung up after the axles clear. Long wheelbase is a B.
However, a 6 inch lift on stock tires would be overkill, and look silly.

 

[WILDHOBO]

At basic level, this is true. Practically though, the axles are and diffs aren't the areas where I'm needing ground clearance (currently on 35s). It's mostly the frame where I'm looking for clearance, and the areas that scrape and get hung up after the axles clear. Long wheelbase is a B.
However, a 6 inch lift on stock tires would be overkill, and look silly.

Agreed. Except I love my long wheelbase on climbs and big ledges. The JT wins over two doors in those areas.

 

[Sazabi19]

I think OP would've been better served with a Rubi or Sport S w/Max Tow for the 4.10s. This is looking to be a VERY expensive build out.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I think OP would've been better served with a Rubi or Sport S w/Max Tow for the 4.10s. This is looking to be a VERY expensive build out.

The 4.10’a would be too little for 37’s anyway. I do agree rubicon is a nice starting point because of lockers and sway bar disconnect though.

 

[JD101]

The OP has a Willy's , and it's a nice package . It's just my suggestion , but let's not start with a tone that runs the new kid in class off . Obviously there are plenty of options on a Willy's that can really improve looks and performance. With that said unless a regear is budgeted I would stick to 35s . It doesn't take 10k to enjoy 35s on a Willy's reliably on or off road . Some of this is driven by how good you are a turning your own wrenches tho. You can always go bigger . Chances are taking steps up the ladder are easier and allow for learning the trucks limits and you own . Yes you pay a bit for that education tho . If you go all in and put tons , hydro , and 40s chance are there will be regret after the honeymoon period is over too.

Let's also make the OP aware that max tow , Mohave, and Rubicon have wider axles than Willy's , this makes wheel offset choices not apples to apples . Same goes for the Rubicon/Mohave fenders . 35 and no lift on a Willy's probably isn't fantastic where it works well on a Rubicon ( just from a fitment Stand point) .

 

[JD101]

The 4.10’a would be too little for 37’s anyway. I do agree rubicon is a nice starting point because of lockers and sway bar disconnect though.

Also the highline fenders , wide axles , and 4/1 t case gears .

 

[JD101]

My truck (rubi ) in Mi driving ( low elevation , rolling hills ) was absolutely fantastic with 37x12.50r17 and 5.13 gears . It had 2.5" front and 1.5" rear total lift . Fuel mileage was 16or better at 75mph . Steering, and ride were like stock . After 4/2 lift and 38x13.50s there has been a noticable degrade in steering , ride , and fuel mileage. It's still pretty damn nice overall for a truck on heavy 38s , but I do consider going back to 37s and less lift at times .

This is why I feel like 35x/11.50, 12.50, 285/75r17, 305/70r17 on 3.73 gears with 2"ish f and 3/4" r would be a really simple nice running choice . That leaves room for a couple other support goodies .

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