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A Small Tip for Those with Geometry Correction Brackets

Lunentucker

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I have the Rancho brackets, and after initially installing them using the top hole, I have since moved down to the bottom hole, in two different steps of moving and testing.

What I didn't do, and should have done, each time that I moved the rear bolts, was to loosen the bolts on the axle end (front) to allow the front end to shift slightly and then be re-clamped with no pre-load.

After that thought rattled around in my head for a few months, I finally got under there and did it yesterday.
A ten minute job at the most.
As I drove today, maybe it was the placebo effect and all in my head, but I think Jeep felt smoother over bumps and handled even slight better and tracked perfectly.

So the tip is that anytime you shift the position of the rear (frame) bolts, it might be a good idea to loosen the front ones until you're done moving things around. Then re-clamp them to specs.

Credit to @ShadowsPapa for planting the seed that wouldn't get out of my head when he said something like, "It's a clamping connection. The brackets squeeze the bushings and hold them in place through a clamping force. That's why proper torque matters". Something like that. I'm paraphrasing.
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JeepTaco

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I have the Rancho brackets, and after initially installing them using the top hole, I have since moved down to the bottom hole, in two different steps of moving and testing.

What I didn't do, and should have done, each time that I moved the rear bolts, was to loosen the bolts on the axle end (front) to allow the front end to shift slightly and then be re-clamped with no pre-load.

After that thought rattled around in my head for a few months, I finally got under there and did it yesterday.
A ten minute job at the most.
As I drove today, maybe it was the placebo effect and all in my head, but I think Jeep felt smoother over bumps and handled even slight better and tracked perfectly.

So the tip is that anytime you shift the position of the rear (frame) bolts, it might be a good idea to loosen the front ones until you're done moving things around. Then re-clamp them to specs.

Credit to @ShadowsPapa for planting the seed that wouldn't get out of my head when he said something like, "It's a clamping connection. The brackets squeeze the bushings and hold them in place through a clamping force. That's why proper torque matters". Something like that. I'm paraphrasing.
Thanks for the info. Good to know. I just ordered a set rancho geo brackets for my truck. Going to do a spacer lift, geo brackets, and 35s. I want to take it in for an alignment 1 time and 1 time only.
 
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Lunentucker

Lunentucker

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Thanks for the info. Good to know. I just ordered a set rancho geo brackets for my truck. Going to do a spacer lift, geo brackets, and 35s. I want to take it in for an alignment 1 time and 1 time only.
Set it in the middle hole and see what that caster reading is.
Then you can drop another hole and test it if it still feels like it's trying to wander in there wind.
It's crazy how much more stable mine is in stout crosswinds now.

Really all they can do is set the toe, which you can easily adjust yourself.
 

JeepTaco

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Set it in the middle hole and see what that caster reading is.
Then you can drop another hole and test it if it still feels like it's trying to wander in there wind.
It's crazy how much more stable mine is in stout crosswinds now.

Really all they can do is set the toe, which you can easily adjust yourself.
Nice. I'll set them in the middle and go from there.

I've adjusted toe in other vehicles but didn't have a method of measuring toe so it was an estimated adjustment.

Whats your method of measuring degrees of toe in or out?
 
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Lunentucker

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Lunentucker

Lunentucker

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MercMan54

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I have the Rancho brackets, and after initially installing them using the top hole, I have since moved down to the bottom hole, in two different steps of moving and testing.

What I didn't do, and should have done, each time that I moved the rear bolts, was to loosen the bolts on the axle end (front) to allow the front end to shift slightly and then be re-clamped with no pre-load.

After that thought rattled around in my head for a few months, I finally got under there and did it yesterday.
A ten minute job at the most.
As I drove today, maybe it was the placebo effect and all in my head, but I think Jeep felt smoother over bumps and handled even slight better and tracked perfectly.

So the tip is that anytime you shift the position of the rear (frame) bolts, it might be a good idea to loosen the front ones until you're done moving things around. Then re-clamp them to specs.

Credit to @ShadowsPapa for planting the seed that wouldn't get out of my head when he said something like, "It's a clamping connection. The brackets squeeze the bushings and hold them in place through a clamping force. That's why proper torque matters". Something like that. I'm paraphrasing.
Just curious what size lift you have?
I have a 3.5" lift and have these mounted in the top hole. It rides decent but I am going to take up your suggestion on trialing lower mounting location to middle and bottom slots for sure.

It seems like as they fit the JT, the instructions are written for the JL so I am unsure if the mounting locations are more of a trial and error for the JT? Anyway, thanks for the tip!
 
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Lunentucker

Lunentucker

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Just curious what size lift you have?
I have a 3.5" lift and have these mounted in the top hole. It rides decent but I am going to take up your suggestion on trialing lower mounting location to middle and bottom slots for sure.

It seems like as they fit the JT, the instructions are written for the JL so I am unsure if the mounting locations are more of a trial and error for the JT? Anyway, thanks for the tip!
2" - I have settle on the middle hole.
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