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Anyone experienced with 2004 - maybe Wrangler? radiators?

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ShadowsPapa

ShadowsPapa

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Ouch. I like RA because they stock everything, even if it's not organized in the right spot. Case in point was that they were the only ones to carry a brass heater core without swivel connections when I needed one for the dodge. They also carry lots of good NOS parts just in general.

But sure, RA can be a lot like eBay - you gotta be willing to eat the cost if it doesn't work out.
Last I knew they don't stock much of anything. They have things drop-shipped. For example, when I ordered the bushings - it took multiple suppliers for RA to get them for me. They came from 3 different places. RA simply finds sources for the parts and when you need something, they place the order and have it shipped to you. They only actually stock very popular fast moving parts, the majority are shipped from other sources.
They didn't have your part, they found a source for it and listed it.

One of the multiple parts I had an argument with RA over was a steering dampener - name brand, figured it would be ok. Ordered it and it was way too big, even collapsed completely it was too long to go into place, and the diameter was way too large. It wouldn't fit between the cross member and drag link. I sent them photos of the original and of me trying to get the one bought from them to fit into place, and of the two parts laying side by side - my original factory part and their replacement. They contacted their supplier and were told it's the right part. Even with pictures they said sorry, the seller says that's the correct part. If they stocked the part, they'd have taken it back.

The guy literally started RA in his home
Here's one source a business/financial news site -
RockAuto sometimes ships from its own warehouses, but it also often ships directly from the manufacturers of certain auto parts. Some RockAuto customers have shared the locations from which their parts were shipped, as disclosed on the shipping documents.

They ARE a great source for NEW brake parts, name brand stuff, that AMC people can't otherwise find. I've found wheel cylinders, USA made, Bendix, Wagoner, etc. when no one else could get them. I have bought 2 NEW master cylinders from them for my various cars and they are still in service years later. They were correct. Local stores said sorry, can't get them. Otherwise - I'm very wary.

The last car I restored the suspension on - about 2 years ago, I found everything on Amazon cheaper, free shipping. and figured I saved 30-40 bucks. Tie rods, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings and links, ball joints, all of it, Amazon, and cheaper than RA. I was shocked actually because RA had been cheaper than anyone else on MOOG parts and one of the only places that still listed MOOG parts for older AMC cars.
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ShadowsPapa

ShadowsPapa

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Summary -
First - thanks to all of those who have helped, offered help, provided suggestions and information.
I had to filter some as - well, you don't know my brother. Love him like crazy, but........ he seems to try really hard to not put a wrench in his hand these days. I suspect there's some reason behind that as he used to be pretty good with cars and is a long time Jeep guy.

So I had to make it simple for him and provide him what I did knowing my brother.
I provided options, I suggested he use his road-side assistance of his insurance and have it TOWED for repairs, not drive it with a gash that big across the top of the radiator tank.
I told him where he could find or source one - told him the Jeep dealer out his way two not far from him) may be able to get him one - but at a higher price.
I was careful with that because his business recently went through a hostile take-over and he lost a lot and covid almost killed what was left of that business - he's used to Champaign and tropical vacations. But, even with his income really down, he still doesn't like cheap or risky and wants things done nice.

I think he's good to go now.
 

Blade1668

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Isn't that price difference goofy? There's almost nothing to the auto version other than a simple basic cooling coil in the bottom tank.

I gave my brother the info - I said do a new radiator, don't mess with it - new hoses, new cap, new stat and said he could contact Advance, etc. or a Jeep dealer, his choice, his money.

So I think he's got enough information to make a choice now. I told him GET IT TOWED (on a truck) don't drive it!
đź‘Ť On the price difference between auto and manual transmission funny thing is the OEM radiator that was in my LJ had the fittings for a automatic transmission too. That goes to show Jeep does it's own thing in 05.

Only a things that will make a Jeep 4.0 engine in to a boat anchor that I know of... Overheat it, No oil/ don't change it, or run it at red line flat out.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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đź‘Ť On the price difference between auto and manual transmission funny thing is the OEM radiator that was in my LJ had the fittings for a automatic transmission too. That goes to show Jeep does it's own thing in 05.

Only a things that will make a Jeep 4.0 engine in to a boat anchor that I know of... Overheat it, No oil/ don't change it, or run it at red line flat out.
I told my brother do NOT drive it to the shop - and explained that the I6 (inline 6) is prone to more head issues when over-heated because of the sheer length of the head and the 4.0 was no exception. I think that scared him........... he was actually going to fill it with water and drive it to the shop.

The 4.0 in my SX4 had 100,000 miles on it when I got it. What was left of the oil came out thick and VERY black - I mean black. I did a complete rebuild and it's been fine. Luckily the crank polished up at .010 under and I found .010 bearings for a 258 and filed new notches in the 4.0 rods to line up with the 258 bearing tabs.

I've wound it up a few times, but not for long periods.

This is what happens when you don't change oil, or use poor oil, etc. - I put a comp cams xtreme 4x4 cam in it anyway and had a NOS 4.0 distributor sitting on the shelf.......

Jeep Gladiator Anyone experienced with 2004 - maybe Wrangler? radiators? cam-dist-gear-0055


Jeep Gladiator Anyone experienced with 2004 - maybe Wrangler? radiators? cam-dist-gear-0053
 

Blade1668

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I
I told my brother do NOT drive it to the shop - and explained that the I6 (inline 6) is prone to more head issues when over-heated because of the sheer length of the head and the 4.0 was no exception. I think that scared him........... he was actually going to fill it with water and drive it to the shop.

The 4.0 in my SX4 had 100,000 miles on it when I got it. What was left of the oil came out thick and VERY black - I mean black. I did a complete rebuild and it's been fine. Luckily the crank polished up at .010 under and I found .010 bearings for a 258 and filed new notches in the 4.0 rods to line up with the 258 bearing tabs.

I've wound it up a few times, but not for long periods.

This is what happens when you don't change oil, or use poor oil, etc. - I put a comp cams xtreme 4x4 cam in it anyway and had a NOS 4.0 distributor sitting on the shelf.......

Jeep Gladiator Anyone experienced with 2004 - maybe Wrangler? radiators? cam-dist-gear-0053


Jeep Gladiator Anyone experienced with 2004 - maybe Wrangler? radiators? cam-dist-gear-0053
I bought a Jeep years back for just the engine It ended up making that look like new. Teen son and shade tree mechanic grandpa had worked on it. It had gravel in oil pan when I dropped it the teen tried to use beer for antifreeze. Block was scrap all I got was a transmission, transfer case and axles.
 

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TJRjeepn

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My advice change it all out. I have an 03 TJR that developed a leaking radiator around 100,000 miles. I too am on the TJ forum and took the advice of some very knowledgeable people from there. Replaced my radiator, fan clutch, water pump, thermostat, gasket, radiator cap and fluid. All with Mopar equipment. As previously stated the Mopar parts lasted 18 years, 100,000 miles and you can’t trust other aftermarket parts like you can OEM. I’m no mechanic by any means but the 4.0 is easy to figure out when it comes to the cooling system. Before changing this all out I had heat soak a few times and would see tempts reach 220-225. Since the change ( roughly 15,000 miles ago) my temp stays below 220 all summer day long and no more heat soak. 4.0 runs like a champ still. Keep all the fluids fresh and the 4.0 should last a long long time.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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My advice change it all out. I have an 03 TJR that developed a leaking radiator around 100,000 miles. I too am on the TJ forum and took the advice of some very knowledgeable people from there. Replaced my radiator, fan clutch, water pump, thermostat, gasket, radiator cap and fluid. All with Mopar equipment. As previously stated the Mopar parts lasted 18 years, 100,000 miles and you can’t trust other aftermarket parts like you can OEM. I’m no mechanic by any means but the 4.0 is easy to figure out when it comes to the cooling system. Before changing this all out I had heat soak a few times and would see tempts reach 220-225. Since the change ( roughly 15,000 miles ago) my temp stays below 220 all summer day long and no more heat soak. 4.0 runs like a champ still. Keep all the fluids fresh and the 4.0 should last a long long time.
I sold a WJ with over 128,000 on the original engine. My father owned it and he had the radiator changed at about 110,000 as it started leaking.
My other 4.0 is in my car - originally had 100,000 miles on it when I got the engine and pulled it out of the ZJ.

I told my brother to not mess with a radiator shop, get a new radiator, replace both hoses and the thermostat. Coolant is a given since all of his blew out and he ended up putting water in to limp it back home. I told him GET IT TRUCKED to a shop.
I had time and space in my shop (I'm going on a year out with work for people now) I'd have done it, I'd have trailered it to my place and done just that - rad, hoses, stat, etc.
The thermostat on this is among the easiest there is of any engine - it's right up front, 2 bolts, simple to get to. Even easier than the V8s I work on. Upper rad hose and heater hose. That's it.
My Comanche from new used to run 220 on a fairly regular basis - that doesn't bug me a bit. The coolant with a good cap is good for over 260 degrees.
My built V8 runs right at 192 degrees but runs the gauge up high about 3/4 after shut off, but since it's got a perfect coolant mix and a good cap, I don't care if it goes over 220 when shut down. That's pretty typical. Once it's started, the needle drops right back down to below center and it's fine. Sitting coolant will absorb the heat from the engine parts that are normally much hotter than the flowing coolant itself so it's no big deal to me. 6s don't do it nearly as bad as some higher HP V8s do. But it's normal for the coolant temp to rise as it continues to absorb heat from the iron surrounding it and hit over 220 pretty easily.

I have a NOS fan clutch on my shelves for when my SX4's 4.0 may need it, but so far the one from the ZJ is doing fine. Engine was actually running too cool until I replaced the stat with a correct hotter 190 and now it's doing fine. Before it never got into the green. I was surprised it was running so cool since I had the head shaved, raised the compression, and put a cam in it - but the new radiator I put in that car handles a lot of heat.

Dealing with my brother can be fun - he'll send a text with very little information and want a solution, so we play 20 questions for a while and then I give him my final answer. In this case - get it taken to a shop, put in a new radiator, new hoses, new cap and new stat.
IF it was an AMC 4.0, I have NOS hoses sitting here with the correct factory part number on them.
 

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Ouch. I like RA because they stock everything, even if it's not organized in the right spot. Case in point was that they were the only ones to carry a brass heater core without swivel connections when I needed one for the dodge. They also carry lots of good NOS parts just in general.

But sure, RA can be a lot like eBay - you gotta be willing to eat the cost if it doesn't work out.
When my radiator in my 2001 Lexus LX cracked, they had one in stock and it was an exact fit (Denso).

The thing I HATE about RA is they can charge you umpteen different shipping charges because they have eleventy billion different warehouses. It's ridiculous.
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