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CreepyJeepy
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The FAD system is a weak point in the design of the Dana 44 up front.
When they replace that axle, you will need to make sure that all of the control arms (+frame mounts) / springs / bushings / etc didn't get twisted up.
Also make sure you get an alignment.
Imagine that happening at 70mph :-P Glad you were ok.
When they replace that axle, you will need to make sure that all of the control arms (+frame mounts) / springs / bushings / etc didn't get twisted up.
Also make sure you get an alignment.
Imagine that happening at 70mph :-P Glad you were ok.
Last edited:
ShadowsPapa
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Wasn't Doug's Jeep - thankfully.
The FAD is a weak point in any axle that uses it - be it a 1981 Eagle, 80's Jeep, or a 2023 Gladiator. It's a point where sections are joined. On the other hand - I've seen axle tubes broken loose or even out of the center section casting, so even with no FAD, $#!t happens.
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Dougstdig
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I had a D30 on a TJ sport take a huge hit then I rear ended an 81’ish model Tornado in ‘01 going 55 in Dallas…one of those set up accidents orchestrated by some of our illegal neighbors.. The tube was bent, but the FAD was intact. Before the insurance company totaled the vehicle (no fault!!!) I saw the replacement parts list which included an entire axle assembly, front suspension etc. The main reason I’m not in favor of some type of full width axle is the passenger front tire was driven up to the battery, through the computer and crushed where the floorpan met the firewall causing footwell intrusion.
The video above moves so quickly it’s hard to identify exactly where the BMW supposedly made contact. The front bumper is a stubby aftermarket unit with no scratches. The side surface of the wheel doesn’t appear to have scratches or impact damage, which leads me to think the tire took the impact, similar to my accident 20 years ago. Getting lucky with the pause button, shows tire scuffs where the impact may have happened now located on the left side of the photo.
Mjolnir
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Looks exactly like what happend to my rear axle (minus the fact that there is no FAD) when my truck was hit on July 1st. Still waiting to get it back from being repaired.
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BearFootSam
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It would have been worse with IFS…
ShadowsPapa
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Yup - I'd rather break a part, than to have something totally solid and ungiving in that area.I had a D30 on a TJ sport take a huge hit then I rear ended an 81’ish model Tornado in ‘01 going 55 in Dallas…one of those set up accidents orchestrated by some of our illegal neighbors.. The tube was bent, but the FAD was intact. Before the insurance company totaled the vehicle (no fault!!!) I saw the replacement parts list which included an entire axle assembly, front suspension etc. The main reason I’m not in favor of some type of full width axle is the passenger front tire was driven up to the battery, through the computer and crushed where the floorpan met the firewall causing footwell intrusion.
The video above moves so quickly it’s hard to identify exactly where the BMW supposedly made contact. The front bumper is a stubby aftermarket unit with no scratches. The side surface of the wheel doesn’t appear to have scratches or impact damage, which leads me to think the tire took the impact, similar to my accident 20 years ago. Getting lucky with the pause button, shows tire scuffs where the impact may have happened now located on the left side of the photo.
But like I said - I've seen axle tubes busted loose from the center casting, too, so FAD or no FAD, when you take a hit like that, there's going to be damage. I'd rather it be controlled.
I was smacked hard in the LF tire of my 95 F250. No one could see what was wrong and I just drove it until I traded it, but it never took turns the same. I'm going to guess steering knuckle and it threw off toe out on turns. Even after alignment and "we can't find anything bent" it was never the same. And those front ends are danged heavy-duty. I had the heavy suspension under that truck. The guy was only going about 35 (still, that was speeding for that part of town)
notoriousms33
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Ever since the dealership replaced my front axle @10k miles-I have been getting a slightly hoppier ride that seems to be comming from the same area that was replaced.
they said they replaced the front axle including the entirety of the components.
Any insight on what I should exactly look for as far as worn components that maybe didn’t get finalized or replaced that the dealer turned a cold shoulder to? It seems the hoppy is in the seats and floorboard more
cause to get replaced axle:
Engaging into 4high 4lo gears would grind, and would hear “clicky noise” when engaging in those gears.
I am just revisiting this as it has been 20k miles and got around to replacing steering components that didn’t seem to eliminate the issues.
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Hootbro
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Dealership might not have torqued the front upper and lower control arms on the ground under load and the rubber bushings are under a preload.
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