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Bed layout for Overlanding

DiscoDino

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Hey everyone...wanted to get some thoughts on getting the optimal bed set-up as we Overland. Goal is to compliment the iKamper RTT (with bedding, sleeping bags, blankets and pillows within), the two tables mounted under the RTT, the toilet awning on one side, and the tools under the rear seat to get the right set-up in the bed.

I've put some thoughts on this diagram...40L water tank, 20L backup, 4 x 20L Scepter for Fuel (until Long Ranger comes out), an ARB Classic II 60L on a slider, a Kitchen Rubber Maid, a dry good Rubber Maid, a Pelican with the hot water shower system from Australia, and finally the chairs for the 5 of us (2 adults and 3 kids) randomly thrown around. I'm missing the iKamper awning, and the 5kg Cadac gas canister for the hot water system. This also assumes the 4Gal air tank and Extreme Air pump and the deep cycle battery all 3 live somewhere underneath the bed :)...

Thoughts? Learnings? This is my first pick up overlander...

Screen Shot 2020-03-04 at 10.35.33 PM.png
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Mark Doiron

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Just a couple random thoughts:

1) You might consider the Genright dual-battery tray for the second battery. I have one to install in my Gladiator. It also eliminates that motorcycle battery, making battery access easier and providing self-jumping for a dead battery.

2) I have the ARB Twin Air Compressor mounted on a bracket (made by ARB) under my passenger seat. Works great, and have it wired to the Aux 3 switch for control, and direct to battery for power (takes 53 amps) through the drain plug under that seat. A friend has the next more powerful ARB compressor on his JK mounted under the frame on a bracket he fabricated. He has the air tank and said he sees little benefit from it. He says it isn't large enough to provide much of one.

3) Action Packers are stout. However, they are space-inefficient. You might consider Front Runner Wolf Packs, which are basically a remake of Bundee Boxes.
 
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DiscoDino

DiscoDino

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Just a couple random thoughts:

1) You might consider the Genright dual-battery tray for the second battery. I have one to install in my Gladiator. It also eliminates that motorcycle battery, making battery access easier and providing self-jumping for a dead battery.

2) I have the ARB Twin Air Compressor mounted on a bracket (made by ARB) under my passenger seat. Works great, and have it wired to the Aux 3 switch for control, and direct to battery for power (takes 53 amps) through the drain plug under that seat. A friend has the next more powerful ARB compressor on his JK mounted under the frame on a bracket he fabricated. He has the air tank and said he sees little benefit from it. He says it isn't large enough to provide much of one.

3) Action Packers are stout. However, they are space-inefficient. You might consider Front Runner Wolf Packs, which are basically a remake of Bundee Boxes.
Thanks Mark - all valid thoughts.

Agree on the Genright (or Genesis) - was looking into them to free up the under carriage space
The Extreme Air Magnum has been with me for 4 years and I run tools off of it and air up my other rig's tires when needed (42") so the tank is preferred, but if I must will have to ditch
The Front Runner dealer here is out of stock, when available will try to source...good point. I also like the Alubox ones...
 

Mark Doiron

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Thanks Mark - all valid thoughts.

Agree on the Genright (or Genesis) - was looking into them to free up the under carriage space
The Extreme Air Magnum has been with me for 4 years and I run tools off of it and air up my other rig's tires when needed (42") so the tank is preferred, but if I must will have to ditch
The Front Runner dealer here is out of stock, when available will try to source...good point. I also like the Alubox ones...
I have three AluBoxes. They are really well made, and I use them all of the time. I have only one beef with them: The aluminum wears and forms a black dust that gets all over everything that touches the sides. From there it gets all over your hands as you use whatever was stored in that box. A friend suggested coating them (PlastiDip, LineX, etc), but they are already so expensive, why aren't they coated inside to begin with?
 
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DiscoDino

DiscoDino

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I have three AluBoxes. They are really well made, and I use them all of the time. I have only one beef with them: The aluminum wears and forms a black dust that gets all over everything that touches the sides. From there it gets all over your hands as you use whatever was stored in that box. A friend suggested coating them (PlastiDip, LineX, etc), but they are already so expensive, why aren't they coated inside to begin with?
Weird...I know what you mean about that aluminum thing...I had a Defender with aluminum knobs and steering wheel and my hands were some weird metallic gray most of the time...There must be a better choice out there for thin wall, somewhat structural, weatherproof enough affordable casing...Maybe I'll replace the kitchen Action Packer with one from South Africa or Australia that is made for Kitchen use...
 

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desertfox73

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If you're considering the Wolf Pack boxes (as I am), you might also consider the Ridgid pro tool box. For one, it has more capacity because of the height - with the wolf pack, you'd have to buy a separate $20 lid to get the same height/volume. That's silly expensive to me.

Also, the Ridgid boxes are fully water-tight, stackable with a locking system to keep them together, and very well made...very similar to Pelican quality

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-22-in-Pro-Tool-Box-Black-222570/205440481.

Forgot to add: if you're putting a cargo glide or similar in the bed, the pro tool boxes should fit under a tonneau. Assuming the slide isn't more than 5" height.
 
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DiscoDino

DiscoDino

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If you're considering the Wolf Pack boxes (as I am), you might also consider the Ridgid pro tool box. For one, it has more capacity because of the height - with the wolf pack, you'd have to buy a separate $20 lid to get the same height/volume. That's silly expensive to me.

Also, the Ridgid boxes are fully water-tight, stackable with a locking system to keep them together, and very well made...very similar to Pelican quality

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-22-in-Pro-Tool-Box-Black-222570/205440481.

Forgot to add: if you're putting a cargo glide or similar in the bed, the pro tool boxes should fit under a tonneau. Assuming the slide isn't more than 5" height.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm in Dubai so RIDGID may not have this particular model but I'll check...for now, the layout is getting clearer...see latest picture with some ideas where things will go (all under tonneau). Still not ideal but getting there...need room for fire wood and my Snow Peak fire pit :)

Screen Shot 2020-03-09 at 10.46.48 AM.png
 

steelponycowboy

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I've been overlanding for over 15 years with JeepExpeditions.club. My first overland rig was a highly modified Jeep Grand Wagoneer (yeah a woody wagon). 2nd was a TJ which was too small, then a 98 JK 5.9 Limited which was certainly big enough. Finally two JKUs and now my JTR diesel.

I got a full 100% CargoGlide so I could easily access everything in the back. There is a trade off in that you loose several inches for the slide system. On top of that in the center I have a large ClearVue levititating fridge slide with a National Luna 72L two compartment fridge freezer. Behind that I have two Secpter 5 gallon water cans, on the sides I have 6 smaller totes for food and such. The driver side has an ARK Pack battery system for the fridge that doubles as a dual battery.

On top I have the ARE CX HD cap with aluminum doors on the sides and back with the tool box option on both sides. The tool box option is great and on one side I have kitchen stuff and more food items and the other has 1st Aid and recovery gear.

On top I have a Rood Nest Condor which is a bit bigger than the iCamper Mini and is the perfect size on the back of a JT either above the bed or on top of a topper.

Above the cab I have the Rhino Rack back bone system that so far holds 4 antennas, two 50" light bars and a few other things.

Like I said, I've been overlanding for over 15 years now with the average trip being 8 days, some a 3 day weekend and the longest a 6 week trip thru Alaska and NW Canada. I have several 2+ week trips coming up in the next few years and just got back from the 2800 mile Heart of the West Trail and another 6 week road trip doing trails in about 8 different states. I went with the big fridge because of the separate freezer compartment and the fact that I can stock 2 weeks of food in it if necessary.

Fuel cans, I'm using RotoPak cans on my Rockslide Engineering Step Sliders using their RotoPak mounts for the step sliders. I've found I can put two cans on each side and keep them within the foot print of my 35x12.50x17 tires.

Still not finished with it, waiting for a back ordered Mopar factory lift with SuperSprings Sumo Springs front and rear for load capacity and handling along with a Fox HD steering damper. Will probably do a gear change and go with 37's before next summer.
Jeep Gladiator Bed layout for Overlanding 20210714_161533
Jeep Gladiator Bed layout for Overlanding 20210714_161621


I'm going to do a write up soon with more pictures.

Jeep Gladiator Bed layout for Overlanding 20210714_161533

Jeep Gladiator Bed layout for Overlanding 20210714_161621
 

Alaskantinbender

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I've been overlanding for over 15 years with JeepExpeditions.club. My first overland rig was a highly modified Jeep Grand Wagoneer (yeah a woody wagon). 2nd was a TJ which was too small, then a 98 JK 5.9 Limited which was certainly big enough. Finally two JKUs and now my JTR diesel.

I got a full 100% CargoGlide so I could easily access everything in the back. There is a trade off in that you loose several inches for the slide system. On top of that in the center I have a large ClearVue levititating fridge slide with a National Luna 72L two compartment fridge freezer. Behind that I have two Secpter 5 gallon water cans, on the sides I have 6 smaller totes for food and such. The driver side has an ARK Pack battery system for the fridge that doubles as a dual battery.

On top I have the ARE CX HD cap with aluminum doors on the sides and back with the tool box option on both sides. The tool box option is great and on one side I have kitchen stuff and more food items and the other has 1st Aid and recovery gear.

On top I have a Rood Nest Condor which is a bit bigger than the iCamper Mini and is the perfect size on the back of a JT either above the bed or on top of a topper.

Above the cab I have the Rhino Rack back bone system that so far holds 4 antennas, two 50" light bars and a few other things.

Like I said, I've been overlanding for over 15 years now with the average trip being 8 days, some a 3 day weekend and the longest a 6 week trip thru Alaska and NW Canada. I have several 2+ week trips coming up in the next few years and just got back from the 2800 mile Heart of the West Trail and another 6 week road trip doing trails in about 8 different states. I went with the big fridge because of the separate freezer compartment and the fact that I can stock 2 weeks of food in it if necessary.

Fuel cans, I'm using RotoPak cans on my Rockslide Engineering Step Sliders using their RotoPak mounts for the step sliders. I've found I can put two cans on each side and keep them within the foot print of my 35x12.50x17 tires.

Still not finished with it, waiting for a back ordered Mopar factory lift with SuperSprings Sumo Springs front and rear for load capacity and handling along with a Fox HD steering damper. Will probably do a gear change and go with 37's before next summer.
Jeep Gladiator Bed layout for Overlanding 20210714_161621
Jeep Gladiator Bed layout for Overlanding 20210714_161621


I'm going to do a write up soon with more pictures.

Jeep Gladiator Bed layout for Overlanding 20210714_161621

Jeep Gladiator Bed layout for Overlanding 20210714_161621
Hello Mike, did you make that write-up about your truck yet? It looks pretty good. More info would be great.
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