Willys502
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- #1
So, like the title says, my experience installing the Elite Series headlights from Diode Dynamics. I'll start by saying that my Jeep is a 2021 Gladiator Willy's with LED tail lights and halogen headlights and fog lights. I installed the Elite Series fog lights back in the summer and was blown away by the output and difference. I immediately wanted the headlights to match because the fogs were WAY brighter than the halogen headlights.
So, I picked up the Elite Series (didn't need the max version since I don't need the extra output at night) on black Friday and anxiously waited for them to show up. Got them yesterday and couldn't wait to get them in. I watched the video multiple times and used the QR code on the box and went over the instructions. I figured, okay, this looks pretty straight forward, no sweat.....yeah, hold my beer.
So, if your looking to do this, take my advice:
1) Tell your significant other to leave the house, take the kids, h*ll, take the dog as well unless you want them to learn new words. I learned new words. And I was the one saying them.
2) Tell your neighbors they might want to leave as well, the language in my garage got a little 'sporty'.
3) Be sure you have beer and, if you smoke, buy another pack
4) Lock up your guns
That being done, realize the video is more of a loose guideline to get these installed.
Popping off the grill, removing the clips, removing the headlights went fast. Driver side wiring harness was not a problem until the video mentions 'remove the fuse box to gain access to the headlight harness'. Well, I was pleasantly surprised to find out that, for some reason, my truck doesn't have that. Like, at all. Couldn't find it. No big deal, one less thing. It next says to 'push the clip toward the outside of the vehicle' to gain access to it. Nope. That clip has a locking tab that faces the outside of the vehicle. The clip fits in a hole along side the body panel. Basically, if you can flex your wrist downward and touch your forearm with your fingers, you still won't be able to get to the locking tab to slide off the plug. After much 'sporty' language, I just popped the clip off the body panel with a body panel tool. The passenger side is held on the same way.
This is my first Jeep so I was unfamiliar with the red locking tab and having to SQUEEZE while pulling the male and female ends apart. Not Diode's fault at all. That one is on me. Once I finally was able to separate the plug, the wiring harness slid on with no problem.
Now, the passenger side. 'Route the wire through the hole, under and around the intake and along the body'. Right. The clearances on that side are tighter than a nun's va-jay-jay. Your best bet is to go ahead and remove the passenger side inner fender. You will break plastic rivets unless you have some super cool tool that doesn't exist to remove them. I broke 3.
Once, the inner fender is removed, you can easily access the factory wiring harness. The supplied harness snaps in easily. Good luck on routing the supplied harness. You'll have to do some creative routing to get it through there. Route the turn signal harness across the front of the vehicle above the radiator to the other side. Goes pretty easy.
Now, re-attach the inner fender and position the vehicle to aim your headlights. Install the headlight on the driver side and tighten it down. Plenty of room there. For the passenger side, drink a beer, smoke, take some deep breaths and contemplate your life. Then, push, cuss, question why you are doing this, and install the headlight. Understand that the clearance between the back of the light and the air box is TIGHT. The harness pushes against the box and bends down at a pretty tight angle and the canbus thingy that I believe helps with flicker is also in the way. Once its in and you then run the rest of the harness to the fuse box. Mine is parallel to the firewall. Find the correct fuse to plug in (#52, I believe) and then cut a small notch in the fuse box for the wire, otherwise it'll pinch it and the lid won't go back on.
Set up the truck to aim your lights. I did mine in the driveway facing a piece of plywood inside the garage to get the proper distance. It was level-ish. The center of my headlights are 38" high to I made the lines at 36" high. The adjustment screw is on the bottom corner of the headlight. Grab the included adjustment tool and look at how cool it is, then put it away. You won't be able to use it while the lights are installed. Works great when they aren't in the vehicle. For the driver side, a quarter inch drive and a 5/32 socket will fit while the light is installed. Mine were way low but adjusted to the correct height without issue. For the passenger side, remove the light, turn the adjustment a few times and re-install. Mine took me 4 times and it got close enough, I was done with it.
4 1/2 hours later, yes, you read that correctly, my lights were in and aimed. I went for a short drive and overall I'm pleased but I still feel they are a little low.
Good luck! YMMV.
So, I picked up the Elite Series (didn't need the max version since I don't need the extra output at night) on black Friday and anxiously waited for them to show up. Got them yesterday and couldn't wait to get them in. I watched the video multiple times and used the QR code on the box and went over the instructions. I figured, okay, this looks pretty straight forward, no sweat.....yeah, hold my beer.
So, if your looking to do this, take my advice:
1) Tell your significant other to leave the house, take the kids, h*ll, take the dog as well unless you want them to learn new words. I learned new words. And I was the one saying them.
2) Tell your neighbors they might want to leave as well, the language in my garage got a little 'sporty'.
3) Be sure you have beer and, if you smoke, buy another pack
4) Lock up your guns
That being done, realize the video is more of a loose guideline to get these installed.
Popping off the grill, removing the clips, removing the headlights went fast. Driver side wiring harness was not a problem until the video mentions 'remove the fuse box to gain access to the headlight harness'. Well, I was pleasantly surprised to find out that, for some reason, my truck doesn't have that. Like, at all. Couldn't find it. No big deal, one less thing. It next says to 'push the clip toward the outside of the vehicle' to gain access to it. Nope. That clip has a locking tab that faces the outside of the vehicle. The clip fits in a hole along side the body panel. Basically, if you can flex your wrist downward and touch your forearm with your fingers, you still won't be able to get to the locking tab to slide off the plug. After much 'sporty' language, I just popped the clip off the body panel with a body panel tool. The passenger side is held on the same way.
This is my first Jeep so I was unfamiliar with the red locking tab and having to SQUEEZE while pulling the male and female ends apart. Not Diode's fault at all. That one is on me. Once I finally was able to separate the plug, the wiring harness slid on with no problem.
Now, the passenger side. 'Route the wire through the hole, under and around the intake and along the body'. Right. The clearances on that side are tighter than a nun's va-jay-jay. Your best bet is to go ahead and remove the passenger side inner fender. You will break plastic rivets unless you have some super cool tool that doesn't exist to remove them. I broke 3.
Once, the inner fender is removed, you can easily access the factory wiring harness. The supplied harness snaps in easily. Good luck on routing the supplied harness. You'll have to do some creative routing to get it through there. Route the turn signal harness across the front of the vehicle above the radiator to the other side. Goes pretty easy.
Now, re-attach the inner fender and position the vehicle to aim your headlights. Install the headlight on the driver side and tighten it down. Plenty of room there. For the passenger side, drink a beer, smoke, take some deep breaths and contemplate your life. Then, push, cuss, question why you are doing this, and install the headlight. Understand that the clearance between the back of the light and the air box is TIGHT. The harness pushes against the box and bends down at a pretty tight angle and the canbus thingy that I believe helps with flicker is also in the way. Once its in and you then run the rest of the harness to the fuse box. Mine is parallel to the firewall. Find the correct fuse to plug in (#52, I believe) and then cut a small notch in the fuse box for the wire, otherwise it'll pinch it and the lid won't go back on.
Set up the truck to aim your lights. I did mine in the driveway facing a piece of plywood inside the garage to get the proper distance. It was level-ish. The center of my headlights are 38" high to I made the lines at 36" high. The adjustment screw is on the bottom corner of the headlight. Grab the included adjustment tool and look at how cool it is, then put it away. You won't be able to use it while the lights are installed. Works great when they aren't in the vehicle. For the driver side, a quarter inch drive and a 5/32 socket will fit while the light is installed. Mine were way low but adjusted to the correct height without issue. For the passenger side, remove the light, turn the adjustment a few times and re-install. Mine took me 4 times and it got close enough, I was done with it.
4 1/2 hours later, yes, you read that correctly, my lights were in and aimed. I went for a short drive and overall I'm pleased but I still feel they are a little low.
Good luck! YMMV.
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