Extruded Aluminum - educate me please

[chorky]

I am looking for a few solutions for storage. The primary solution I am looking for from this particular thread revolves around building a rack for the canopy. Something like the picture below.

My question is, can I use extruded aluminum for this? Something like this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y8KL79...lid=38W9IW6TGQTN1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1)? Extruded aluminum can be found of varying lengths and sizes so I might be able to find something that works without cutting. And I can probably get a decent cut, not perfect, from my reciprocating saw. I could maybe get a metal blade for my double compound miter saw but that would not be preferred. I also want to consider using extruded for a rear seat delete (40%) and some home made versions of what goose gear has in the rear.

However, I have never used it before and have zero experience with it. So I'm not sure how much weight and force it can handle. Going back to the picture above, would a 1010 work for that, or do I need a 1020 or 2020? Really unsure.... I also am unsure how much weight I would actually store there. Probably not a ton. maybe 50 pounds at most??? Taking a guess there really.

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[culdbbi]

I am looking for a few solutions for storage. The primary solution I am looking for from this particular thread revolves around building a rack for the canopy. Something like the picture below.

My question is, can I use extruded aluminum for this? Something like this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y8KL79...lid=38W9IW6TGQTN1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1)? Extruded aluminum can be found of varying lengths and sizes so I might be able to find something that works without cutting. And I can probably get a decent cut, not perfect, from my reciprocating saw. I could maybe get a metal blade for my double compound miter saw but that would not be preferred. I also want to consider using extruded for a rear seat delete (40%) and some home made versions of what goose gear has in the rear.

However, I have never used it before and have zero experience with it. So I'm not sure how much weight and force it can handle. Going back to the picture above, would a 1010 work for that, or do I need a 1020 or 2020? Really unsure.... I also am unsure how much weight I would actually store there. Probably not a ton. maybe 50 pounds at most??? Taking a guess there really.

For 50 lbs, even if it was dead center, you could probably use the 1010, but I would go with the 1020, with the 2" in the vertical direction for greater strength. You wouldn't have to worry about overloading it. I can show you the math if you want.

 

[chorky]

For 50 lbs, even if it was dead center, you could probably use the 1010, but I would go with the 1020, with the 2" in the vertical direction for greater strength. You wouldn't have to worry about overloading it. I can show you the math if you want.

Math? yes please - I am always intrigued by the intricate details of things.

that makes sense. I figured the 1020 would be better suited for dynamic loads. 50 pounds is probably more than I would have but better to be sure than risk things falling apart.

So what about securing it down to the canopy? I have the RLD so like that picture there is a good 3-4 inches of a lip that I can secure it to. Not sure if using some style of U bolt (like on your axle) would be best, or just drilling a whole through the center and bolting it down with a few washers? I figured that the screws and nuts that slide in the channels are probably not sufficiently strong?

 

[AustinL911]

Honestly, for as wide as it is, I wouldn't be too concerned about the strength of it. It's fairly rigid stuff to begin with. I have intentions of using it in the bed as well for a removable bed setup, and also like yourself, a goose gear clone. I think you'd be perfectly fine with the 1010.

 

[culdbbi]

So I used a 50lb load in the center of the bed, neglected the weight of the aluminum and the 1010 is totally fine. I then worked backwards to find the maximum point load, or load per foot. Turns out this would be about 190lbs in the center or about 76lbs/ft.

Now that is assuming just one piece of extruded aluminum, and you are going to have to build a frame to set the tubs/containers on, so you should be plenty good.

As for affixing they have a ton of clips and such. I would look outside of Amazon, like https://8020.net/ and see what they have first, then you can see if you can find them on Amazon.

 

[chorky]

So I used a 50lb load in the center of the bed, neglected the weight of the aluminum and the 1010 is totally fine. I then worked backwards to find the maximum point load, or load per foot. Turns out this would be about 190lbs in the center or about 76lbs/ft.

Now that is assuming just one piece of extruded aluminum, and you are going to have to build a frame to set the tubs/containers on, so you should be plenty good.

As for affixing they have a ton of clips and such. I would look outside of Amazon, like https://8020.net/ and see what they have first, then you can see if you can find them on Amazon.

Oh man this is super awesome!! And thank you a ton for that link too, it looks like I could order specific sizes and they will cut to fit - this will save me SO much time!

Really appreciated!!
? ?

 

[mx5red]

Oh man this is super awesome!! And thank you a ton for that link too, it looks like I could order specific sizes and they will cut to fit - this will save me SO much time!

Really appreciated!!
? ?

You and I look into a lot of the same projects.?
This looks just like the Ozark Overland Adventures (YouTube) contraption that they put together on their xtrusion-overland rack (which is just 1515 or 1530 aluminum, btw). Those swing up side panels are on the xtrusion-overland website, but the inner tray was custom. You can see on those side panels that you can use some pivots to make a swing joint.

his tray pivoted/lifted at the front but he also didn’t size it for the container he had.?

Tnutz.com has plenty of stuff and is cheaper. McMaster carr is harder to search for stuff that fits but they have quality fasteners, too. $$
I think you’ve said you don’t fabricate but if you have a miter saw, I’d use that. I don’t, I used a recip saw and the edge was uneven and total shit?.
BTW I had never heard of this stuff before I saw the rack @arskemp made, then I researched it and made one.
If you plan it right, the tnutz website makes it easy to order countersinking for anchor bolts if you choose to use those, or can just use “hidden” inside corner brackets.

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