Installation of KC Gravity® LED Pro6 lights

[ShadowsPapa]

feel free to send me some . Lol.

LOL - everything I restore gets new wire, new terminals, whatever. I have to keep various gauges of various colors on hand.

Thanks guys. I plan to reduce the fuse on the Voswitch to 20 amp as this was the fuse that was in line. The JL300 appears to have 6 30 amp fuses subject to a 100amp max draw. I only have 1 item, a winch relay attached, and that has either a 5 or 10 amp fuse if I recall correctly.

The consensus seems to be that 14 gauge wire will meet my needs. I haven't tried to determine what gauge wire is in their harness but it's not all that heavy.

The Voswitch is grounded to one of the terminals on the top of the battery.

My only concern hearing that the switches were grounded was that it didn't give me a picture of how they were grounded, where they were grounded, and the total capacity of the ground.
I've seen people run a half dozen current drawing things each with their own positive leads of proper size but try to run them all through the same ground, not understanding that what goes to the item must also be taken from the item to ground. 10 amps in means the ground must also handle 10 amps and so on.
(you should have seen the times while I was an electrician for PFG, where I found a neutral wire to be hot because the clowns wiring a business building decided they could tie all of their circuits to a common neutral and suddenly that neutral had enough power to kill you)

Yeah, I'd see 14 as fine.

A winch solenoid/relay would normally draw less than 5 amps (I've seen all the way from less than 3 up to 5 depending on the specific solenoid and who did the testing)
The fuse is to protect the wiring. So if the device would draw 5 amps max the wire needs to handle more than that, and the fuse needs to blow before the wire reaches such an amperage that it would get hot. Fuses protect the wires. If the device shorts and draws everything it can possibly draw, you want that fuse to pop before wires melt or worse.
Anyway, sounds like you are fine.

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[Bobchadwickga]

LOL - everything I restore gets new wire, new terminals, whatever. I have to keep various gauges of various colors on hand.

My only concern hearing that the switches were grounded was that it didn't give me a picture of how they were grounded, where they were grounded, and the total capacity of the ground.
I've seen people run a half dozen current drawing things each with their own positive leads of proper size but try to run them all through the same ground, not understanding that what goes to the item must also be taken from the item to ground. 10 amps in means the ground must also handle 10 amps and so on.
(you should have seen the times while I was an electrician for PFG, where I found a neutral wire to be hot because the clowns wiring a business building decided they could tie all of their circuits to a common neutral and suddenly that neutral had enough power to kill you)

Yeah, I'd see 14 as fine.

A winch solenoid/relay would normally draw less than 5 amps (I've seen all the way from less than 3 up to 5 depending on the specific solenoid and who did the testing)
The fuse is to protect the wiring. So if the device would draw 5 amps max the wire needs to handle more than that, and the fuse needs to blow before the wire reaches such an amperage that it would get hot. Fuses protect the wires. If the device shorts and draws everything it can possibly draw, you want that fuse to pop before wires melt or worse.
Anyway, sounds like you are fine.

My tendency is to put the same size fuse in the Voswitch as was in the original wiring. The Voswitch harness was not modified so I have to believe it has a ground rated to handle 100 amps.

 

[SSinGA]

Can you be more specific where you cut the harness. Before or after their switch?

Just cut the KC switch off and connected to the controller box

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