Louder Horn no cut harness

[Supazuk]

So I finally fixed the week sounding jeep horn, I bought the horn a year ago never got to installing it it is a: Bad Boy Model 419 12-Volt 123.5 Decibels 530 / 680 Hz
and I have one in my suburban and Mini Countryman its virtual a compact train horn. I it bought at Harbor Freight with coupon

So what had been holding up this mod is I didn't want to cut up the jeeps harness and it seemed no one sold a JT /LJ horn harness

After some research I finally figured out jeep and ford share the same horn plugs, armed with that I was able to search for connectors, while scouring the Jungle site I found that Farbin sold pig tail adapters, I could just unhook a horn and it plug in
FARBIN Car Horn Special Plug Compatible with Ford Adapter Converter Wiring Harness Pigtail Socket Car Horn Connector Harnesses Cable 3Pcs

That would have been fine, I could have snipped the ends made an extension and had my loud horn ......
However, when i added to cart i noticed Farbin had other options on the same page. I found it! a y splice for the horns now jeep horn and the loud "train horn"

FARBIN 1 to 2 Horn Adapter Connector for Ford, Y Type Horn Connector Converter Wiring Harness, Plug and Play

So Today was the day first I had to find what wire was the positive and negative ...easy
- pulled out the grill plastic rivets and laid back the grill, winch is on so taking it off would be dumb also I could have left the grill unhooked with a pick and long screwdriver but then could not get pics of the connections for that forum write up
-unhooked both (don't want to piss off the neighbors) and plugged the adapter in
-used a test light to figure out positive and used a paint marker to mark it

now for the harness

Both horns connected and all the wires hidden away

the only question was where to put the Bad Boy well that fell right into place and fit so well all I had to do was a quick zip tie an put the plastic rivets and grill was back in .... Now off to the mall to scare Old lades and soccer Moms!!!

One concern I had was how loud this might be when locking doors, I can confirm that the output is not that loud

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[SamJ3]

Nice project and good job installing. Thanks for sharing the process and procedures.

I did a similar project using an electric pump air-horn very similar to yours. Like you, I couldn't fit the horn behind the grill, so it ended up adjacent to the washer tank - except on the other side. Also, I added a horn relay. I'm mentioning this in case you blow a fuse later, as the air horn motor draws much more current than the OEM horns. Also worth mentioning is that I learned that the F91 fuse circuit is the horn circuit, and I could use a fuse tap on that circuit to drive the horn - that circuit is only live when the horn button is pressed.

I was unaware of the harness compatibility - I much prefer to tap into the harness that way versus splicing whenever possible. Good find. (I used the fuse tap on F91 and ran the wires from the fuse block. This was very simple and easy, plus I had no need to pull back the grill. I just needed to run a wire from the under-hood fuse block compartment.)

Gone are the days where there is an abundance of free space under the hood

 

[sjnoble2]

I have been struggling with this same issue for about 6 months now.

Thanks for the info and the write-up.

 

[Supazuk]

Nice project and good job installing. Thanks for sharing the process and procedures.

I did a similar project using an electric pump air-horn very similar to yours. Like you, I couldn't fit the horn behind the grill, so it ended up adjacent to the washer tank - except on the other side. Also, I added a horn relay. I'm mentioning this in case you blow a fuse later, as the air horn motor draws much more current than the OEM horns. Also worth mentioning is that I learned that the F91 fuse circuit is the horn circuit, and I could use a fuse tap on that circuit to drive the horn - that circuit is only live when the horn button is pressed.

I was unaware of the harness compatibility - I much prefer to tap into the harness that way versus splicing whenever possible. Good find. (I used the fuse tap on F91 and ran the wires from the fuse block. This was very simple and easy, plus I had no need to pull back the grill. I just needed to run a wire from the under-hood fuse block compartment.)

Gone are the days where there is an abundance of free space under the hood

my next plan is when I decide on a switch bank to use a relay bank and be able to choose to have the air horn or not and maybe add a third speaker mp3 option

 

[Supazuk]

Also, I added a horn relay. I'm mentioning this in case you blow a fuse later, as the air horn motor draws much more current than the OEM horns.

I would have added the relay However i have 3 other cars with the same WOLO Bad boy and the draw is equal to factory so I have never lost a fuse. I got to try it out on my weekend of youth hockey travels.. works great on left lane campers

 

[SamJ3]

my next plan is when I decide on a switch bank to use a relay bank and be able to choose to have the air horn or not and maybe add a third speaker mp3 option

That is how I did it. Both horns are wired, but the switch bank powers the horn relay, enabling or disabling the air horn. Works great.

 

[Joe_G]

Thanks for the tip on the harness!

As another option you can install a Cadillac 4 horn Dm7 chord horns on a Jeep super easily. They are super loud and have that classic Cadillac tone.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...y-gladiator…very-easy-mod-sounds-great.61146/

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