Maximus Build

[TheTrailGeek]

Finally got the Wolfbox fully installed. Going to see how I like the rear camera mounted on the bed rack. Might change it and mount it on the license plate later. Next up is the CVT awning, Metal Cloak Skid plate, sector shaft brace and Front track bar reinforcement.

Super clean! Great work!

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[MaximusTX]

That thing is looking really nice! by chance is that the RENO slider? looks awfully similar to the one I have as well. Amazon.com: Hitch Slider, 2" Receiver Slider Skid Protection 45,000 lbs Compatible with 3/4" D-Ring or Soft Shackle for Trucks Off-Road Vehicle Towing Recovery Hitch Protection (Aluminum, Black)

Yeah, it is the RENO one. I was originally going to go with the 41.22 but found this one that was half the price and if it is accurate stronger plus it has pretty good ratings. Plus the issue I had with 41.22 is you never know when you item is going to ship and I wanted to make sure I had the slider for my trip.

 

[MaximusTX]

Super clean! Great work!

Thanks appreciate it.

 

[MaximusTX]

Since I got back from Wolf Caves I found a couple issues that I had. My front diff started leaking, both front and rear lockers were no longer disengaging and the light would just blink, it was pretty top heavy with the extra 400 pounds up top and I ended up bending a rail on the bed rack from tire. The front diff ended up being all of the front bolts were only hand tight but I removed the cover and cleaned it, put a new gasket and torqued the bolts down to spec and put torque bolt markers on them so I can see if they come loose. I got the Z automotive OEM Locker bypass for front and rear lockers and that fixed the locker issue but now it goes from Dana plug > Jeep OEM Adapter > Z Automotive OEM Locker Bypass > Jeep Harness so just adds more points of failure. It will work until I can possible figure something else out. I removed the tire from the top of the bed rack as it ended up bending one of the rails. I reached out to @RebelOffRoad to get a replacement and they have amazing customer service and got me fixed up with a new rail. I ended up ordering the new Decked Drawer to get the weight back down and put the tire on that along with all the recovery gear in it so the molle panels all got removed as well. I also got the @Metalcloak sector shaft brace installed so now my steering is finally fully reinforced. Here is the link to my trip to wolf caves if you haven't already checked it out:

Another trip to Wolf Caves

 

[MaximusTX]

Finally got the decked drawer system installed and tire mounted on it. Replaced the bent bed rack channel with the new one and also added the Diesel Rotopax with the AI 13 Metal PAX Nozzle. Also reconfigured the Banks iDASH for alerts for the EOT, ECT, EGT and DPF Soot Level. Still need to add the rough country brackets for the awning to lift it up higher but other than that I think it is pretty much ready to go to the Rubicon in a little over a week.

 

[MaximusTX]

Life has been a little crazy since I got back from the Rubicon with having to have a fourth neck surgery and looking at shoulder surgery next I haven't had time to work on Maximus but I was finally able to talk my brother into coming over and fixing him for me. Finally got the new drag link installed but went with a flip kit this time which should take a lot of the stress off the ball joint.

 

[MaximusTX]

Starlink Mini finally went on sale so I picked it up. I went with the Starlink Mini Overhead MOLLE Mount from Adventure Lab to mount it. They do have their own overhead Molle Panel but it was $300 so I opted for the $89 dollar one from Amazon. The mounting holes didn't quite line up. I currently just used zip ties to hold it in place now until I get another bracket or something else made but still not bad for I think a total of $130 total for the overhead panel and the brackets. I also came out the other day and found my front tire flat. One of the valve stems and have broke and was leaking air. Not wanting to remove tire I was able to remove the valve stem and insert a new one with this kit. The whole job was actually pretty easy and only took about 5 minutes.

JT Overhead Molle Panel Shelf
Tire Valve Stem Quick Replacement Tool Kit

 

[KevinM60]

I also came out the other day and found my front tire flat. One of the valve stems and have broke and was leaking air. Not wanting to remove tire I was able to remove the valve stem and insert a new one with this kit. The whole job was actually pretty easy and only took about 5 minutes.

I could have used one of those a couple Saturdays ago. A Holcomb Creek Trail boulder jumped out and bit one of my valve stems off at the base of the cap, taking the guts with it.
Fortunately I was right at the end of the western gatekeeper and hobbled to the road to change the tire. With one of those I would have been able to replace the stem on the trail to save time and money. It cost me $50 at the tire shop but the time is more valuable. I’m adding one of those to my onboard repair kit.

 

[MaximusTX]

I could have used one of those a couple Saturdays ago. A Holcomb Creek Trail boulder jumped out and bit one of my valve stems off at the base of the cap, taking the guts with it.
Fortunately I was right at the end of the western gatekeeper and hobbled to the rode to change the tire. With one of those I would have been able to replace the stem on the trail to save time and money. It cost me $50 at the tire shop but the time is more valuable. I’m adding one of those to my onboard repair kit.

You might also take a look at Glue Tread's emergency Valve Stem Repair Kit. I also carry that with me for when I am wheeling. Not sure it is a permanent solution and I was in my driveway so I used the other kit.

GlueTread Emergency Valve Stem Repair

 

[Signing Spock]

Starlink Mini finally went on sale so I picked it up. I went with the Starlink Mini Overhead MOLLE Mount from Adventure Lab to mount it. They do have their own overhead Molle Panel but it was $300 so I opted for the $89 dollar one from Amazon. The mounting holes didn't quite line up. I currently just used zip ties to hold it in place now until I get another bracket or something else made but still not bad for I think a total of $130 total for the overhead panel and the brackets.

I’m considering getting a Starlink Mini for our JT and mounting it on the Alu-Cab. How did you wire it for power? I saw in your pics the wire just dangling but I assumed you ran it somewhere?

I don’t have a 110 outlet in the bed yet, but was curious if these can run on 12v too, if you know? Their site just shows DC (house plugs) for all their devices so not sure what hoops I’d have to jump through to do this.

Any advice would be appreciated man.

 

[MaximusTX]

I’m considering getting a Starlink Mini for our JT and mounting it on the Alu-Cab. How did you wire it for power? I saw in your pics the wire just dangling but I assumed you ran it somewhere?

I don’t have a 110 outlet in the bed yet, but was curious if these can run on 12v too, if you know? Their site just shows DC (house plugs) for all their devices so not sure what hoops I’d have to jump through to do this.

Any advice would be appreciated man.

I noticed you are from Lompoc. I grew up just north of you in Arroyo Grande and actually work remote from TX but my job is in SLO. To answer you question I purchased the Starlink Mini Car Adapter with it and then ran that down the passenger side A-Pillar and then behind the dash down to the Cigarette and USB power port that I have installed on the passenger side footwell. More info on the install is on Post # 48 for the parts and a video of how to install it as well. It is currently just setup to work when the JT is on. I plan on getting a Jackery or something to power it at a campsite.

 

[Signing Spock]

Wow small world, hahaha I’m here for training at Vandenberg SFB. I absolutely love SLO … wish I could live there haha

And nice I’ll go back to that post, thanks! I’m thinking of running power to an aux switch so I can have it “on” whenever I want or could make it come on and off with the vehicles aux power.

Wondering if the Aux 1 or 2 would have enough power to support the Starlink mini.

 

[MaximusTX]

Wow small world, hahaha I’m here for training at Vandenberg SFB. I absolutely love SLO … wish I could live there haha

And nice I’ll go back to that post, thanks! I’m thinking of running power to an aux switch so I can have it “on” whenever I want or could make it come on and off with the vehicles aux power.

Wondering if the Aux 1 or 2 would have enough power to support the Starlink mini.

That shouldn't be a problem. When I did the install I just connected mine to the constant power wire instead of one of the AUX wires. For the install you use a cigarette 12v connector anyways so you would just plug the starlink power adapter into that instead and I don't see why it wouldn't work.

This is the cable I used for my install which I think I also linked in the install on post #48 and here is the install video I linked as well which would work for the first half as well.

Cigarette Lighter Socket Battery Boost Cable Heavy Duty 30A Fuse 12V

 

[MaximusTX]

Wow small world, hahaha I’m here for training at Vandenberg SFB. I absolutely love SLO … wish I could live there haha

And nice I’ll go back to that post, thanks! I’m thinking of running power to an aux switch so I can have it “on” whenever I want or could make it come on and off with the vehicles aux power.

Wondering if the Aux 1 or 2 would have enough power to support the Starlink mini.

Getting back this after running it like this for a few days I don't like the current setup. At the time I figured it wouldn't be an issue having it on all the time but after a few days of driving it the Starlink takes a few minutes to boot up and connect and sometimes I have short trips and I am turn it on and off. Not sure if it will ultimately affect it or not but I think your approach would be better. I actually unplugged it for now and will probably rewire it to an AUX switch or something else just to make sure it doesn't get messed up from being turned on and off all the time while I am out running errands.

 

[Signing Spock]

Thanks for the update! Yeah, as a former comm guy … I can say turning things off and on frequently isn’t great for it lmfao on a weekly basis, sure, but numerous times daily isn’t superb for these applications. That being said, they should’ve been engineered and developed to handle that, as most consumers use it the way you do. So it’s probably fine. But if you want longevity out of it, you should probably modify the power source to something controlled so that it’s not going off and on numerous times a day.

unfortunately, some money hasn’t dropped in my lap like I was hoping it would so I’m farther off from this project than I had expected hahahaha

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