Member Input Needed! Jeep Gladiator Wheels | Buyers Guide

[offroad_source]

Looking for some input from members, We have written this guide (The only one we have found on the internet) for those looking to upgrade wheels/tires. Is there anything you feel we should add? We want to be informative as possible to someone researching and we feel the best way to cover everything is to ask those who have upgraded, or those who are looking to upgrade?

Note: We based our information on what we have personally done in the install shop, or sold to customers. We are positive that there are more variations for different trim levels out there.

Read it here.

https://offroad-source.com/jeep-gladiator-wheels-buyers-guide/

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[PuddleJumper]

IDK why everyone defaults to 0 offset. This puts a lot of poke on the trim levels with Widetrack axles. Based off a sport your sizing sheet makes sense, but when you have 3/4 in more axle tube length on each side, that's almost 20mm of spacing per side your ignoring. Wide track axles get the same fitment with +20 that a standard sport does with 0 offset. AEV wheels are proof of this. I run stock Sport OE wheels, +44 offset, add a 1 in spacer that's 18.6mm offset and 37s fit with no rubbing just fine. If i ran 0 per your list, I'd be getting tickets, unnecessarily reducing scrub radius, and chipping more paint. I would add a section to your list to cover trims with Highline/Rubicon fenders and Widetrack axle vehicles. I could' still go further in as i have room to spare, my stock Mojave wheels are 30 something offset and they will fit 35s and some 37s with no rubbing as well. I'm not saying this list is wrong, I'm just saying your safety margin of making 0 offset the baseline is a bit excessive considering stock is +44. telling someone they need to add almost 2in of offset per side to fit bigger than 33s is a lot. your list is more accurate for sport trims and 9in plus wide wheels. This list would work for most owners out there but there will be quite a few Sport Max tow, Deisel, Rubi/Mojave owners who will be annoyed a bit irked that they spent 5k for wheels and tires and they ended up with a Hot Stance Boy SOFLO look instead of what they wanted. just my 2 cents.

this -12 on a sport, courtesy of @Jccook777

This is +18 on a widetrack vehicle

36 whole mm's of difference, same fitment. imagine if i had -18, ewwww.

 

[offroad_source]

IDK why everyone defaults to 0 offset. This puts a lot of poke on the trim levels with Widetrack axles. Based off a sport your sizing sheet makes sense, but when you have 3/4 in more axle tube length on each side, that's almost 20mm of spacing per side your ignoring. Wide track axles get the same fitment with +20 that a standard sport does with 0 offset. AEV wheels are proof of this. I run stock Sport OE wheels, +44 offset, add a 1 in spacer that's 18.6mm offset and 37s fit with no rubbing just fine. If i ran 0 per your list, I'd be getting tickets, unnecessarily reducing scrub radius, and chipping more paint. I would add a section to your list to cover trims with Highline/Rubicon fenders and Widetrack axle vehicles. I could' still go further in as i have room to spare, my stock Mojave wheels are 30 something offset and they will fit 35s and some 37s with no rubbing as well. I'm not saying this list is wrong, I'm just saying your safety margin of making 0 offset the baseline is a bit excessive considering stock is +44. telling someone they need to add almost 2in of offset per side to fit bigger than 33s is a lot. your list is more accurate for sport trims and 9in plus wide wheels. This list would work for most owners out there but there will be quite a few Sport Max tow, Deisel, Rubi/Mojave owners who will be annoyed a bit irked that they spent 5k for wheels and tires and they ended up with a Hot Stance Boy SOFLO look instead of what they wanted. just my 2 cents.

this -12 on a sport, courtesy of @Jccook777

This is +18 on a widetrack vehicle

36 whole mm's of difference, same fitment. imagine if i had -18, ewwww.

This is a world of help! Thank you so much.

 

[Lunentucker]

I would add the stock wheel offsets to the introductory summary for each trim, and perhaps a simple graphic or an embedded video that explains offset - positive, negative, and zero.
You may also mention that Jeep, and probably others, cast the manufactured offset in the inside backside of their rims. So if anyone isn't sure what their starting point is, they can simply go and take a look.

Rubicon is +44
Mojave is +37.17

 

[Lunentucker]

If you could partner with and embed or link the visualizer from tiresize.com, you'd have a damned nice thing going there.

https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

 

[TheSolarWizard]

@PuddleJumper i’m getting you are gonna gonna approve of my setup lol

as far as scrub lift and tire size changes it as does offset so its a mixed bag as far as maintaining it.


the wheels on this jeep are -38 / 3.5 BS w 42/14.50
IM going with a 0 / 5” (which is the max that will clear the hi po brakes on a 17) w/ 42.13.50

the axles are identical

 

[PuddleJumper]

@PuddleJumper i’m getting you are gonna gonna approve of my setup lol

as far as scrub lift and tire size changes it as does offset so its a mixed bag as far as maintaining it.


the wheels on this jeep are -38 / 3.5 BS w 42/14.50
IM going with a 0 / 5” (which is the max that will clear the hi po brakes on a 17) w/ 42.13.50

the axles are identical

That will be sick! definitely not a stock axle fitment guide list setup tho lol. I approve of the wheel choice tho, its generally safer in my experience to bring the tire as far in as you can, especially if you don't wanna do math.

Generally i prefer positive scrub, especially for a vehicle that will spend a lot of time in RWD. It can be darting under braking if you have too much, which is what the Mojave doesn't have enough of imo with its stock wheels. I find that +20 ish range will land you a pretty sweet positive scrub on most tire widths. Negative is almost impossible to get on a Jeep as you really gotta stuff the wheel to get there, but it's not really useful for us as its generally a setup for FWD cars. Now zero scrub is the tricky one, its easy enough to get, and done right it has better low speed handling albeit needs a lot more force to rotate and the tires wear quicker especially with improper PSI. Its negative affects are most noticeable at highway speeds, it can be quite skittish under heavy braking and because the tire will scrub the opposite direction you turn, it can cause quite a bit of binding with 4x4 vehicles. I've seen a lot of front locked vehicle grenade their u joints just cycling from lock to lock, due to this. If I'm visualizing your setup right, you'll have a good bit of positive scrub, you like that its easier to turn as the wheel won't turn on its center line and it'll track pretty straight on the road. -35mm offset and you might have way to much positive and thats not fun.

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