Mizn Firecracker Build

[Canuck33]

Just planning the start to my build....any thoughts on what I am starting off with? Have a stock red Rubicon JT that is not a daily driver, but will take in on & off-road, but nothing extreme.

- 2.5 inch lift (brand TBD)
- Tires...either Yoko Geolander X-AT or BFG K02 (35x17x?...width TBD...want about 1 inch outside fender...no more)
- Wheels...not sure which...but all black in either
- Black Rhino Arsenal (rusting bolt issue scares me, but love the look)
- XD Series Panzer
- Fuel Zephyer
- Replace stock rock guards with Rock Hard Patriot Sreies Tube Slider Rock Guards (angled down)
- Front Bumper (not sure if I'm doing this yet or not...may hold off til phase 2)
- Fishbone FB22088 Mid-Length
- Deegan 38

I am not a new Jeeper!...so any suggestions, thoughts, or things I may be missing would be appreciated. Just want something with an aggressive look that I can drive on & off-road and not too over the top. And I have to keep the thing under 80 inches high so it can fit in the garage!

Thanks.

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[Clayton Off Road]

We can suggest a good lift kit!

 

[furrymurray]

We can suggest a good lift kit!

Have your springs become available? I think you should also point out what separates your control arms from others. I am referring to the bushings with the factory cuts in them or whatever its called.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Have your springs become available? I think you should also point out what separates your control arms from others. I am referring to the bushings with the factory cuts in them or whatever its called.

Our front springs, control arms, track bars, and sway bar end links are all available currently. The rear springs, which are the missing component to our full lift kits have recently finished testing and are on their way! Our full kits should arrive sometime later this month.

As for what makes our control arms different, we strive to have the toughest most durable products on the market and it all comes down to the details. A few different factors come into play like our 5/16" thick control arm housings, our lower control arms use 2x2 1/4" wall square tubing that we CNC machine for better weld penetration, a CNC machined tube insert that is pressed into the arm, plug welded, and then fully welded around all 4 corners. These are just a few of the things we choose to do differently in order to achieve our desired product durability and also why we offer a lifetime warranty against bending or breaking on every single one of our control arms that we send out.

I think the the factory cuts in the bushings you're referring to are the knurls we use in our Giiro Joints which come standard on all of our Overland Plus Lift Kits. Giiro joints use our free pivoting, self-lubricating, self-centering, silent in operation and maintenance free bushings that also feature the same type of knurled surface that factory control arms use. This is to provide additional surface area in order to achieve superior clamping force. This larger surface area is especially important on the front of JL and JT front lowers since the brackets use a square hole, so a standard bushing sleeve doesn’t have full contact on the bracket.

And that's just our control arms! Track bars are for another time. As mentioned earlier, all control arms come with a lifetime guarantee against bending or breaking, and are 100% made in the USA. Let me know if there's anything else I can answer. - James

 

[furrymurray]

Our front springs, control arms, track bars, and sway bar end links are all available currently. The rear springs, which are the missing component to our full lift kits have recently finished testing and are on their way! Our full kits should arrive sometime later this month.

As for what makes our control arms different, we strive to have the toughest most durable products on the market and it all comes down to the details. A few different factors come into play like our 5/16" thick control arm housings, our lower control arms use 2x2 1/4" wall square tubing that we CNC machine for better weld penetration, a CNC machined tube insert that is pressed into the arm, plug welded, and then fully welded around all 4 corners. These are just a few of the things we choose to do differently in order to achieve our desired product durability and also why we offer a lifetime warranty against bending or breaking on every single one of our control arms that we send out.

I think the the factory cuts in the bushings you're referring to are the knurls we use in our Giiro Joints which come standard on all of our Overland Plus Lift Kits. Giiro joints use our free pivoting, self-lubricating, self-centering, silent in operation and maintenance free bushings that also feature the same type of knurled surface that factory control arms use. This is to provide additional surface area in order to achieve superior clamping force. This larger surface area is especially important on the front of JL and JT front lowers since the brackets use a square hole, so a standard bushing sleeve doesn’t have full contact on the bracket.

And that's just our control arms! Track bars are for another time. As mentioned earlier, all control arms come with a lifetime guarantee against bending or breaking, and are 100% made in the USA. Let me know if there's anything else I can answer. - James

Thank you for explaining what I was referring to. To me, when you pay such attention to even the smallest detail I can only imagine how perfect the normal things are. You offer a great product! I know this because I have done my research and spoke with you guys directly. I look forward to experiencing the quality I know you produce.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Thank you for explaining what I was referring to. To me, when you pay such attention to even the smallest detail I can only imagine how perfect the normal things are. You offer a great product! I know this because I have done my research and spoke with you guys directly. I look forward to experiencing the quality I know you produce.

We're always here if you need anything!

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