Multiple failures beginning with the Jeep App and ending with engine wouldn't shut off

[YGBSM]

My Gladiator has been at dealership service for three weeks. It started with my app not working and ended with not being able to shut the Gladiator off. I got Jeep Cares involved and they elevated to to tech who told me to "drive it around". Jeep Cares finally told me to take it to the dealership to open a STAR case and get a VSR from the Jeep. I'll put a timeline of the changes made that could possibly be a factor to see if anyone has had the same issues or has a solution. Thanks!

2024 Mojave X with 7,000 miles, build date 4-24, purchased 10-24, no mods other than listed below.

1. The Gladiator sat on the lot for almost 200 days and had almost 200 miles on it. Aside from test drives, the dealership drives vehicles that have been on the lot over 90 days to avoid lot rot.
2. No other problems with the Gladiator before this.
3. Only two changes have been made; I hardwired a dash cam to the aux switches power line under the passenger footwell. No problems noted. App continued to work. I installed a 115V bed plug. Worked fine with no other problems. This did require me to attach a Jscan and activate the outlet. That was the only thing that I did with the Jscan. No problems noted. App continued to work.
4. I changed my app package from the $164/yr Connect to the $109/yr Connect Plus. The only thing it didn't have was WiFi. Sometime after this the app stopped working. But continued to work on my 2024 JLRX.
5. Random short term failures would occur with the Uconnect. Nothing more than forum members have already reported. The app would send me monthly updates saying the the vehicle health was good but wouldn't perform and remote procedures or store trip data.
6. Now the weird part... I did a remote start with my key fob and the vehicle wouldn't allow me to select run. I waited the 10 minutes for it to shut down and it said that the key fob was not detected. I tried the dead key fob start by pushing the start button with the fob and it worked. I took it right to the dealership.
7. The dealership had it two weeks and said that it was fixed. They replaced the battery which was fine. The problem was not resolved.

Any ideas? I'm thinking about canceling all connected apps and then ordering them again.

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[Jteakus]

I'm guessing you tried your extra FOB too?

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Sounds electrical to me. I’ve got a couple thoughts.

Does your JSCAN require a security gateway bypass cable to be installed or does it install in the OBD2 port? Quality of the cable could start problems if you needed that.

200 days is a lot of sitting around, …in the rain. Look closely, slowly and carefully at the inside of the back window for any evidence of a seal leak where water got in and ran down the windows. The ledge where the cap bolts fasten down, directly above the sub woofer is where I and others have reported our leaks and I went further yesterday to pull off the back panel to see that water had its way onto the woofer box and onto the Alpine module.

The DTCM module (drivetrain control module) is also right there next to the woofer and that’s been known to others to have issues with engine starting, or not shutting off and other electrical runnings of drivetrain.

Dont go pulling the panel off yourself. Have them do it. You’ll break tabs and because your name is Kevin, like me, you’ll actually hulk out and break the panel itself! (There’s nice upgrades for that)

By now, I would have hunted down all the major big ass connectors and taken them apart to inspect for bent pins and I just spray those out with DeoxIT D5 to ensure great contact. Dealership may not like you doing that if you have warranty.

Good luck and lets us know what happens!

 

[YGBSM]

I'm guessing you tried your extra FOB too?

Yes, I did. Everything worked fine after that time, but I tested it again with the other fob, and the original fob. I replaced the battery on both, just in case, and they still worked.

 

[YGBSM]

Sounds electrical to me. I’ve got a couple thoughts.

Does your JSCAN require a security gateway bypass cable to be installed or does it install in the OBD2 port? Quality of the cable could start problems if you needed that.

200 days is a lot of sitting around, …in the rain. Look closely, slowly and carefully at the inside of the back window for any evidence of a seal leak where water got in and ran down the windows. The ledge where the cap bolts fasten down, directly above the sub woofer is where I and others have reported our leaks and I went further yesterday to pull off the back panel to see that water had its way onto the woofer box and onto the Alpine module.

The DTCM module (drivetrain control module) is also right there next to the woofer and that’s been known to others to have issues with engine starting, or not shutting off and other electrical runnings of drivetrain.

Dont go pulling the panel off yourself. Have them do it. You’ll break tabs and because your name is Kevin, like me, you’ll actually hulk out and break the panel itself! (There’s nice upgrades for that)

By now, I would have hunted down all the major big ass connectors and taken them apart to inspect for bent pins and I just spray those out with DeoxIT D5 to ensure great contact. Dealership may not like you doing that if you have warranty.

Good luck and lets us know what happens!

I thought the same thing. I looked as far as I could for water damage. I taped litmus strips all around the plastic under and beside the window, and behind the seat, and ran it through a car wash a few times. Nothing.

 

[YGBSM]

Sounds electrical to me. I’ve got a couple thoughts.

Does your JSCAN require a security gateway bypass cable to be installed or does it install in the OBD2 port? Quality of the cable could start problems if you needed that.

200 days is a lot of sitting around, …in the rain. Look closely, slowly and carefully at the inside of the back window for any evidence of a seal leak where water got in and ran down the windows. The ledge where the cap bolts fasten down, directly above the sub woofer is where I and others have reported our leaks and I went further yesterday to pull off the back panel to see that water had its way onto the woofer box and onto the Alpine module.

The DTCM module (drivetrain control module) is also right there next to the woofer and that’s been known to others to have issues with engine starting, or not shutting off and other electrical runnings of drivetrain.

Dont go pulling the panel off yourself. Have them do it. You’ll break tabs and because your name is Kevin, like me, you’ll actually hulk out and break the panel itself! (There’s nice upgrades for that)

By now, I would have hunted down all the major big ass connectors and taken them apart to inspect for bent pins and I just spray those out with DeoxIT D5 to ensure great contact. Dealership may not like you doing that if you have warranty.

Good luck and lets us know what happens!

And yes, I did have to use the SGW bypass.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Another possibility could be loose unseated fuses. I initially found all mine needed to be pushed down into place. I’ve had the fuse box out a few times to mess around with the aux battery and those 4 big block connectors got lubricated with DeoxIT D5 before reconnecting.

Check grounding points and straps. There’s a ground strap under the passenger front wheel liner, that bolts to the frame, can’t miss it. Another 10mm, 3 stud thing right behind the passenger headlight (you’ll need to pull the air box out to see it).

If your issues come and go, I wonder if it’s heat related and maybe you have a harness a little too close to the exhaust in the engine bay.

Do you have a garage and tools to work about the truck with? “If” I’m needing the dealership to deal with something or perhaps your issues would be a warranty fix, I’ll spend the time to locate the problem so the tech doesn’t spend his/her allotted time to not find anything.

 

[YGBSM]

Not heat related. It's constant. I always check the fuses monthly but haven't checked grounding points since the outlet install. I'm going to pull it out and delete the app and reload it in a week or two.

The tech will get covered for his time. I know that they get screwed.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I was having to think back when I too had the bypass cable for a ThinkDriver diagnostic dongle/phone app, and cable had to be installed and removed a few times (hook tool was best, kept my hands out) but then after awhile of this constant install and removal, I upgraded the diagnostic reader to their Mucar CDE900 Pro which just plugs into the OBD2 port.

Then…. we had a bunch of road resurfacing in Calgary this summer and you know when those surface machines are tearing up the top layer of the road and when they stop, there’s that 2” edge all our vehicles hit when driving over…. All summer long, hitting that edge of the road on my normal commute to work …

Then my diagnostic reader called a BCM code (body control module). The jarring from hitting that edge over and over caused the two cables to come loose. I used the hook tool to pull them down, sprayed them and clipped them back in. BCM code cleared. Here’s what Ai says about that module:

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