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Smittie

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Has anyone used AlfaODB and ODBLinkMX+ to perform the Proxi Alignment process on a 2020 or newer Gladiator?

I currently have an ODBLinkLX. The dealer performed the Proxi Alignment this time but I may need to remove the center console again in the future and I am trying to make sure I can do the process myself in the future.

The Backstory:
I removed the center console to run a wire from the AUX wires in the passenger footwell back to the rear seat area. At some point in the process I caused the Shifter Module to lose communication with the CAN bus. I got a "Service Shifter" message and a U1267 error code. I trailered the Gladiator to the dealer where they fixed the issue.
If this is likely to happen every time the center console is removed, I need to be able to address the issue myself.
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ShadowsPapa

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Has anyone used AlfaODB and ODBLinkMX+ to perform the Proxi Alignment process on a 2020 or newer Gladiator?

I currently have an ODBLinkLX. The dealer performed the Proxi Alignment this time but I may need to remove the center console again in the future and I am trying to make sure I can do the process myself in the future.

The Backstory:
I removed the center console to run a wire from the AUX wires in the passenger footwell back to the rear seat area. At some point in the process I caused the Shifter Module to lose communication with the CAN bus. I got a "Service Shifter" message and a U1267 error code. I trailered the Gladiator to the dealer where they fixed the issue.
If this is likely to happen every time the center console is removed, I need to be able to address the issue myself.
It can - but that shouldn't be related to your problem at all.
I'd almost bet there was something else going on.

Odd that simply removing the console should cause such an issue. A whole lot of people have removed those parts, put it all back, and moved on.
 

Smittie

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It can - but that shouldn't be related to your problem at all.
I'd almost bet there was something else going on.

Odd that simply removing the console should cause such an issue. A whole lot of people have removed those parts, put it all back, and moved on.
There are some additional details that were left out for brevity. Once I talk to the tech, I will share any relevant details that I left out. I agree that I did something that caused the problem. Just not sure what yet.

The dealer service dept that I use has been very good, very knowledgeable. I will be talking to the tech tomorrow.
 

Smittie

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I suspected that removing the center console was a dash 10 level operation and that I should not have CAN bus issues. Good to have that confirmed.

Still would like to learn how to address the issue I had this time.
 

ShadowsPapa

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There are some additional details that were left out for brevity. Once I talk to the tech, I will share any relevant details that I left out. I agree that I did something that caused the problem. Just not sure what yet.

The dealer service dept that I use has been very good, very knowledgeable. I will be talking to the tech tomorrow.
In short - you can do a search for AlfaOBD proxi alignment and it might show you the exact steps.
I love that app.
 

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Smittie

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In short - you can do a search for AlfaOBD proxi alignment and it might show you the exact steps.
I love that app.
I've been digging into it today, after finding your comment here. I appreciate having knowledgeable old goats like you around. Thanks.
 

Lost1wing

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I don't have either of them, but from what I've read here and on both the JScan and AlphaOBD websites, it looks like the OBDLink MX+ is the only adapter currently available that is fast enough to do EVERYTHING on a Jeep JL/JT. The slower ones will probably do anything the average user wants though.

And no, I have not figured out what those extra features with the faster OBDLink MX+ actually are.
Maybe live data works better with faster speeds? I use OBDLink MX+.
 

IamPro2A

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I generally hate all this AI crap, but it has it's uses.
https://x.com/i/grok/share/pdHTv69UjwHlfRz2KbWmjN32V
It's also nice to know that if needed, we can also recalibrate the ADAS sensors needed for Forward Collision Warning with Active Braking, Adaptive Cruise Control with Stop and Go, or Blind Spot Monitoring with AlfaOBD and OBDLink MX+. If you have those features they need to be done after a windshield replacement.

In my case, I already broke the Gorilla Glass windshield in the new Wrangler, and we had to wait 2 weeks for Safelite to replace it because they needed to send up a tech from 250 miles away that could replace the windshield with all the little electrical connections and recalibrate the sensors.
After watching him do the replacement and calibration, I'd rather not do it myself, but it's nice to know it's possible.
 

ShadowsPapa

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If you have those features they need to be done after a windshield replacement.
Not if you use quality glass. It's not necessary with the JL or JT as the alignment never changes unless you do a lift or level.
The process states that if your frame measurement to the ground deviates from a specific number, you need to enter the new number then calibrate.

Since modern glass has to conform to some extremely tight optics specs, it's not needed to "recalibrate" after a windshield replacement.

I've had glass replaced with no recalibration.

Typically, it's part of the cost of the glass if you use insurance, not an extra charge, so there is that.
 

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IamPro2A

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Not if you use quality glass. It's not necessary with the JL or JT as the alignment never changes unless you do a lift or level.
The process states that if your frame measurement to the ground deviates from a specific number, you need to enter the new number then calibrate.

Since modern glass has to conform to some extremely tight optics specs, it's not needed to "recalibrate" after a windshield replacement.

I've had glass replaced with no recalibration.

Typically, it's part of the cost of the glass if you use insurance, not an extra charge, so there is that.
Correct, no extra cost for calibration because insurance covered it.

I ask the tech about really needing the calibration, since he replaced with oem glass and he needed to drive a few miles on a lined road to do the dynamic calibration. Out here in the boonies we're happy when the road is paved, the nearest paved road with lines is miles away. He said yes, it still needed to be done because since the glass is glued in, it's possible that the glass is closer or further from the sensors due to the thickness of the bead of glue used, especially human applied in the field vs robotics applied at the factory.

He could have easily said no and saved himself 1/2 hour of time, especially since it was after 5pm, he still had another install/calibration, and then a 2hr drive back to his hotel so he could check out and drive home before headed out of state again the next morning.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Correct, no extra cost for calibration because insurance covered it.

I ask the tech about really needing the calibration, since he replaced with oem glass and he needed to drive a few miles on a lined road to do the dynamic calibration. Out here in the boonies we're happy when the road is paved, the nearest paved road with lines is miles away. He said yes, it still needed to be done because since the glass is glued in, it's possible that the glass is closer or further from the sensors due to the thickness of the bead of glue used, especially human applied in the field vs robotics applied at the factory.

He could have easily said no and saved himself 1/2 hour of time, especially since it was after 5pm, he still had another install/calibration, and then a 2hr drive back to his hotel so he could check out and drive home before headed out of state again the next morning.
Of course he's going to say that.
Ok e glass guy told me that no, it's not but since it's included, they have to actually do it.
Quality glass, a couple mm won't matter (and deviation isn't even close to those numbers)
 

Smittie

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I'd almost bet there was something else going on.
You were correct. Apparently, I did something that disconnected the shifter and then powered up the CAN bus. This is what caused the shifter to get locked out. I did not intentionally touch the connectors on the shifter but it is probable that I bumped them trying to get the center console out. I have since removed and replaced the center console a couple of times without issue.

Also, talking to the Tech, a proxi alignment wasn't necessary. The Tech reconnected the shifter (esm), cleared codes, and the issue was resolved. I suspect once I knew to check the connections to the shifter, I could have done this myself with ODBLinkLX and ODBLink software.

I invite your thoughts, suggestions and comments, @ShadowsPapa.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Also, talking to the Tech, a proxi alignment wasn't necessary.
Normally only needed or used for a module replacement - to sync things up and accept the new modules................
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