Operation "Cheap topper": Warning... this is in process...

[Sunnysideup]

We just finished sleeping in it 22 of 30 nights... and we loved it... it is very fast set up, take down... we used light down bags and never had to remove them from the tent when travelling to the next sight. I'm sure there are many good brands... this just worked great for us!

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[Alaskantinbender]

So-the height was 22 inches tall, 60 inches to the outside rail, 54.5 inches to inside of the topper rail... so it fit on top of the body with lots of room to clamp. The 800lb rack was from amazon and sits on top of the topper mounting plate... and clamps over both. I had to cut the topper to length- to fit the bed... and be very careful here to get a good seal with the back door. I measured this part several times before relocating the door. It fits perfect... and tight, lock works etc... but that is the only place where the cutting had to be perfect.

What did you end up with for a finished length of the topper? I see what you mean about the length. The bottom of the door should be in front of the molded curved area on top of the tailgate. My door is too low as well, about 1 inch lower than the bottom of the rails. Looks like it should be flush to 1/4 inch higher than the rails to give room for some bulb seal.

 

[Sunnysideup]

What did you end up with for a finished length of the topper? I see what you mean about the length. The bottom of the door should be in front of the molded curved area on top of the tailgate. My door is too low as well, about 1 inch lower than the bottom of the rails. Looks like it should be flush to 1/4 inch higher than the rails to give room for some bulb seal.

I measured to the almost middle of the tailgate for the door to seal 1.5 inches back on the top black plastic peice on the tailgate. That could be a totally different measurment on your topper...depending on the slope of the door, and how far it is offset from where the back of your topper ends. So I measured to that point with the door on the topper...and trimmed the topper to set the door in that space. I think you have about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch to play with in there to get a good seal. I'm still using a slavaged peice of rubber from the old topper... but it would easiley be replaceable with something better if I took the time to find it. It's dry and dust free for know... but at some point I plan on a little better seal.

 

[Alaskantinbender]

I measured to the almost middle of the tailgate for the door to seal 1.5 inches back on the top black plastic peice on the tailgate. That could be a totally different measurment on your topper...depending on the slope of the door, and how far it is offset from where the back of your topper ends. So I measured to that point with the door on the topper...and trimmed the topper to set the door in that space. I think you have about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch to play with in there to get a good seal. I'm still using a slavaged peice of rubber from the old topper... but it would easiley be replaceable with something better if I took the time to find it. It's dry and dust free for know... but at some point I plan on a little better seal.

Great info, thank you. I cut out 13 inches, seemed to do the trick. I used a map torch and some aluminum rod to start brazing it together. Seems to work pretty well. The joints stand up to some pretty good whacks from my ball peen hammer. I plan on riveting on a few doublers as well for strength. This guy did some pretty good testing of the process.



And a couple pictures.

 

[Sunnysideup]

Looking very cool!

 

[Blade1668]

Great info, thank you. I cut out 13 inches, seemed to do the trick. I used a map torch and some aluminum rod to start brazing it together. Seems to work pretty well. The joints stand up to some pretty good whacks from my ball peen hammer. I plan on riveting on a few doublers as well for strength. This guy did some pretty good testing of the process.



And a couple pictures.

Pretty convincing video on the aluminum brasing rods, I've seen them for years but never tried or had any faith in them from hype. I've just screwed or riveted aluminum. Would be a good idea to had a aluminum brasing kit for my LJ with the aluminum radiator.

 

[Alaskantinbender]

[/QUOTE]

Looking very cool!

Thank you. Its moving along but slower than I would like. Chores and other things keep coming up, but You know how that goes.
The frame is finished and the roof trimmed and back on. Now its time to shorten the doors. I went back over your build but couldn't find info on venting the topper. Small foreword air scoops?

And a couple pics.

 

[Sunnysideup]

Thank you. Its moving along but slower than I would like. Chores and other things keep coming up, but You know how that goes.
The frame is finished and the roof trimmed and back on. Now its time to shorten the doors. I went back over your build but couldn't find info on venting the topper. Small foreword air scoops?

And a couple pics.

[/QUOTE]
For vents... I just used some round directional vents punched through the sides near the front on each side at the top. I just looked up round vents on amazon... and there were a lot of different ones very inexpensive.

 

[Sunnysideup]

My youngest son started his topper from scratch. This is going on a 2003 Nissan Frontier... the ribs are steel... the siding is steel. The top weighs about 300lbs... lol. But he could park on it. He is adding a rack over the cab... it will slide into the frame rails and should support another 150lbs. He made it tall... it is a camper project with a stove and everything. Probaly won't be finished until winter. Me andmy other son helped him get this far... it could be done in alum. for a lot more money. I think he is at about 600 dollars in product thus far.

 

[rr11]

The topper build went well. Looks good and serves its purpose. Very well done.

 

[Alaskantinbender]

My youngest son started his topper from scratch. This is going on a 2003 Nissan Frontier... the ribs are steel... the siding is steel. The top weighs about 300lbs... lol. But he could park on it. He is adding a rack over the cab... it will slide into the frame rails and should support another 150lbs. He made it tall... it is a camper project with a stove and everything. Probaly won't be finished until winter. Me andmy other son helped him get this far... it could be done in alum. for a lot more money. I think he is at about 600 dollars in product thus far.

Great project. The exoskeleton is a terrific Idea and like you said incredibly strong. Any more progress yet? I'm interested in how it turns out. Seriously contemplating copying your internal load bars to support more weight on mine. I don't trust the aluminum rack for a roof top tent and I need more height to carry my canoe so it doesn't hit the cab top.

 

[Sunnysideup]

Great project. The exoskeleton is a terrific Idea and like you said incredibly strong. Any more progress yet? I'm interested in how it turns out. Seriously contemplating copying your internal load bars to support more weight on mine. I don't trust the aluminum rack for a roof top tent and I need more height to carry my canoe so it doesn't hit the cab top.

He is getting married this weekend, so... the top sits about like this right now. The front luggage rack is not finished yet either... but I'll post the pics when it gets added. He also got a large door for the back...cost him about 350 bucks... so he is approaching the 1000 dollar mark for thsi project.

 

[Sunnysideup]

My Son's nissan topper continues... there is going to be a wedge in the front with recessed led lights. He is looking to have his spare tire mounted on the top... and there is a ladder in the works. It looks a little "mad max" but he is very happy with it!

 

[Necro]

My Son's nissan topper continues... there is going to be a wedge in the front with recessed led lights. He is looking to have his spare tire mounted on the top... and there is a ladder in the works. It looks a little "mad max" but he is very happy with it!

Any updates?

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