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Overland Max 100% seat delete?

HJG

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Has anyone used the Overland Max 100% seat delete?
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IamPro2A

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Interesting. At half the price of Goose Gear if they are any good it's barely worth the effort to DIY.
 

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If you look back on this forum I posted a thread a few years ago about building one for less than $100 in wood. I’m sure the price has skyrocketed since then but the price Goose Gear was and is still asking is just ridiculous. I’m glad to see other companies stepping in and offering other alternatives for those who don’t want to build it themselves selves.
 

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TBH, $700 is still overpriced. Better than Goose Gear, but GG is plain ripping people off. They found something that a lot of people get intimidated when looking at it and think it's harder to do than it actually is, and they've ran with it.

I know not everyone is savvy with tools, but you can build a platform for less than $100 and a couple hours time. Even if you're not savvy with tools, chances are you know someone that is and then it might cost you $100 and a case of beer.
 

IamPro2A

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If you look back on this forum I posted a thread a few years ago about building one for less than $100 in wood. I’m sure the price has skyrocketed since then but the price Goose Gear was and is still asking is just ridiculous. I’m glad to see other companies stepping in and offering other alternatives for those who don’t want to build it themselves selves.
Yea, plywood prices are crazy. I recently paid almost $35 for a 2'x4' piece of 23/32. Not even real 3/4.
 

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IamPro2A

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I was looking at the 40% seat.
I would love to see what/how these are made. If they are a pvc composite, that would cost me over $150 just in materials, plus design and labor for a $300 item. That doesn't seem unfair. If they are made of MDF, forget it. Not worth $30.
 

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Even with todays plywood prices, you could still buy the material and hardware, and buy the tools needed and STILL be far less than what places are charging for these delete platforms.

You can make a platform out of a 2ft x 4ft piece of ply, but it's not going to be the entire rear seat area. If you really want to make sure it fits the corners and as big as it can be, then use a 4ft x 4ft piece.


1/2" 4ft x 8ft sanded 5ply - $45
2ea 8ft 2x3 boards - $3/ea
Box of screws, wood glue, L brackets, ect - ~$25ish
paint/rhinoliner/ect - $20-$80 depending on what you get.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...rip-reports-and-bs-thread.89017/#post-1448987

I've since removed the side panels because they hindered access to underneath. Moving everything off your platform to gain access to the cubby doors gets annoying fast.
 

NC_Overland

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Yea, plywood prices are crazy. I recently paid almost $35 for a 2'x4' piece of 23/32. Not even real 3/4.
That’s wild. They get you on those smaller pieces. They call them hobby boards and charge almost the same as the 4x8’ boards. I started buying the full sized boards and storing what I don’t need. I always use it for something eventually.
 

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I was looking at the 40% seat.
I would love to see what/how these are made. If they are a pvc composite, that would cost me over $150 just in materials, plus design and labor for a $300 item. That doesn't seem unfair. If they are made of MDF, forget it. Not worth $30.
If you look up my old thread on the subject you’ll find that I (and Goose Gear) use 1/2” Baltic birch plywood. This is not the plywood that you get at your big box store. It is what is used to make high grade cabinets. The wood had 7 or 8 plies instead of 3 or 4 and comes in 5’ by 5’ sheets. You can usually find them at cabinet supplier shops or you can find a custom cabinet maker and ask if they’ll sell you a sheet. It is very flat and incredibly strong…well worth the $$.
 

IamPro2A

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That’s wild. They get you on those smaller pieces. They call them hobby boards and charge almost the same as the 4x8’ boards. I started buying the full sized boards and storing what I don’t need. I always use it for something eventually.
Yea, I know. Normally I would have just bought the entire sheet, and that is actually what I planned to do. However, I was on my way to other places after, and the weather forecast for when I would be coming home was for more snow on top of the foot we already had. That would mean breaking down the sheet in the parking lot so it would all fit in the bed and over the cover. And I just did not feel like carrying a sheet of 3/4 or even 2 half sheets through the snow to the other side of the house where the door to the basement is. I admit it, I'm getting old. 3/4 sure seems heavy these days, lol. So when I saw they had smaller pieces, I just said F it and bought that.

If you look up my old thread on the subject you’ll find that I (and Goose Gear) use 1/2” Baltic birch plywood. This is not the plywood that you get at your big box store. It is what is used to make high grade cabinets. The wood had 7 or 8 plies instead of 3 or 4 and comes in 5’ by 5’ sheets. You can usually find them at cabinet supplier shops or you can find a custom cabinet maker and ask if they’ll sell you a sheet. It is very flat and incredibly strong…well worth the $$.
Third generation woodworker here. Grandfather had a mill, and expanded it to making doors and windows. Then in the 1950s he and my father expanded into custom cabinets. Started there as soon as I was old enough to push a broom. Eventually decided I liked turning wrenches more, and then rolled up everything into one and ran a municipal maintenance dept until I retired.

If I was going to use plywood, I would probably go with marine grade. Same deal with more plies (which while it does add strength, it's more for stability), only they are glued together with a waterproof glue, which cabinet grade is not. That's about $150 for a sheet of 1/2". It's also a 3hr round trip to get that or GOOD cabinet grade plywood. As far as tools; you name it I own it. That is not a problem. But I already have enough projects to probably last the rest of my life. At my age time is valuable too.
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