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PAC audio ap4-ch41r2 static noise issue

Lscardsfan

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Hey everyone. Just finished upgrading to 6.5” speakers in dash and soundbar and new sub using 5 channel amp. I have sport s with 7”.
Connected PAC audio adapter, reset it, verified firmware was updated, and turned stereo on. At 0 volume on radio, there is a static noise.
to debug, I checked with no rca’s connected to amp (no hiss/static , therefore power/ground is good), connected rca’s to amp (no static, therefore rca wires are good). Plugged rcas into PAC and noise came back.
i went into pac settings disabled EQ, turned min volume to -20, and turned my amp gains down and static still exist.
I’m not sure what else can be done to the PAC?
One problem I have is with gains set properly on amp using multimeter, if the pac min volume is set to 0, when turning the radio to volume 1-5, it is already audible enough to not be quiet at all. I have to turn the min volume to -20 so that radio volume 1-5 sounds like old factory setup which in turn lowers the rms gain setting I was after and keeps my amp from being able to output the proper wattage.
On a positive note at 20 watts below rms, my 6.5” alpine type r’s are loud as $&*^!!!
Do you guys have static too?
What min volume do you use?
What else can I do?
Sorry for long post but wanted to describe what I’ve already done to be efficient with answers.
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rubiryanjt

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Did you ever figure this out? I am having a static issue that sounds identical to yours.
 
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Lscardsfan

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Did you ever figure this out? I am having a static issue that sounds identical to yours.
Nope. I’ve narrowed it to the head unit. I actually used different wiring and amps to test. Also got a stand alone battery and wired directly from it to separate car. I still have static and without going to an aftermarket head unit I don’t think there’s any other option. I also tried the JL audio fix86 instead of pac and used 3 different pac devices. I think a lot of guys don’t recognize static because their not pushing the wattage that I am but that’s only speculation. I’m around 90 watts rms and you can barely sit in the car at volume 28. I know the wiring setup was quality because I had the car looked over and verified via a local expert audio shop. They actually asked if I’d work there part time because of the way I ran the wires and the quality of install I did. It still sucks to have the static, more of a pride thing because I’ve gotten to where I can tolerate it. In the jeep I’m always playing music. If this problem was in a different vehicle I would have already thrown a grenade in it and walked away! I’m to anal to accept that.
 

rubiryanjt

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Nope. I’ve narrowed it to the head unit. I actually used different wiring and amps to test. Also got a stand alone battery and wired directly from it to separate car. I still have static and without going to an aftermarket head unit I don’t think there’s any other option. I also tried the JL audio fix86 instead of pac and used 3 different pac devices. I think a lot of guys don’t recognize static because their not pushing the wattage that I am but that’s only speculation. I’m around 90 watts rms and you can barely sit in the car at volume 28. I know the wiring setup was quality because I had the car looked over and verified via a local expert audio shop. They actually asked if I’d work there part time because of the way I ran the wires and the quality of install I did. It still sucks to have the static, more of a pride thing because I’ve gotten to where I can tolerate it. In the jeep I’m always playing music. If this problem was in a different vehicle I would have already thrown a grenade in it and walked away! I’m to anal to accept that.
Ya, I hear ya. The static drives me nuts. I am pretty sure it's not the PAC audio harness any more and it's my amp. I ran the amp off my cell phone and still had static. But who knows. I really don't wanna dump $2k into a new head unit but I agree that may be the only way.
 

Radio Guy

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Is the "static" there only when the engine is running or all the time? Its common to have ground loops in audio systems where an amplifier is at a certain ground potential and an accessory is at another ground potential and the RCA shield is trying to equalize the potential and current flows on the shield wires inducing noise on to the center conductor and eventually the amplifier. The fix in that case is to break the shield DC connection using a transformer or series capacitor.

Here is one type of ground loop eliminator and they can be had cheaper and more expensive: https://www.amazon.com/XtremPro-Hi-...eywords=ground+loop+rca&qid=1618674494&sr=8-5
 

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Lscardsfan

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Is the "static" there only when the engine is running or all the time? Its common to have ground loops in audio systems where an amplifier is at a certain ground potential and an accessory is at another ground potential and the RCA shield is trying to equalize the potential and current flows on the shield wires inducing noise on to the center conductor and eventually the amplifier. The fix in that case is to break the shield DC connection using a transformer or series capacitor.

Here is one type of ground loop eliminator and they can be had cheaper and more expensive: https://www.amazon.com/XtremPro-Hi-...eywords=ground+loop+rca&qid=1618674494&sr=8-5
Even when engine is off. Correct me if I’m wrong but I eliminated this issue by my comment of using a separate battery
 

NJJeepGC

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I'll add to this. 2017 Jeep GC. I had a local pro install a JL Audio 700w 5 ch amp. JL Audio stealthbox sub and Audio Frog interior components. Amp pro 4 used. Amp Pro is great because you can use stock head unit like normal. Other setups you lose access to touchscreen and functions. Only issue is annoying hiss. I'm a bit annoyed with the installer for not telling me this was a known problem. He said Amp Pro is in the process of a firmware update. I called the company who said there is no such update pending. Though they suggested changing the voltage 5v to 4v and gain settings on JL amp. I relayed this message to installer who said he already made that adjustment which actually helped. However, hiss is still very noticeable and annoying when off or volume at low levels. The only advice they offered was to add a toggle switch to kill power to amp when driving with radio off. I feel like this is a kinda BS non answer.

From Amp Pro tech support.
"Your final option is not to use a AP4. You will need to sum the audio outputs from the OEM amplifier then run them through a processor to fix the factory DSP related issues before taking it to your amplifiers.
I would discuss this option with your installer."
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