Raw Aluminum Bumper Finishing How To?

[ajkaz]

you are using a steel winch plate but an aluminum bumper?

The bumper is essentially what secures the winch plate to the car. There is a reason why people use steel bumpers.

Yes, steel winch plate with aluminum bumper shell. Winch plates always mount directly to the frame, the bumper is just a "cover" and serves no other purpose besides holding the fairlead (which also mounts through the winch plate. All aluminum bumpers that I've seen are built in this fashion, its extremely strong.

The reasoning for steel bumpers tends to be for durability and look as in nearly all applications it does not secure the winch.

I'm using aluminum for the weight saivings and because I like the raw aluminum look.

Another upside is aluminum would be more likely to crumple/break during an accident vs steel, which would save the frame from damage vs a comparable steel bumper.

@ShadowsPapa exactly as you stated.

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[nickd]

Does your bumper not have studs welded to it that mount through the 8 holes on the frame rail?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm using aluminum for the weight saivings and because I like the raw aluminum look.

If I were doing it again, especially now, I'd opt for the aluminum bumper that looks like the steel Rubicon bumper.
I can't wait to see the results of your setup, honestly- looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

Does your bumper not have studs welded to it that mount through the 8 holes on the frame rail?

What does that matter?
In my case, yes, of course it has studs, but the studs are NOT part of the steel Rubicon bumper. The studs are pressed into the tow hooks. That's the way all stock Jeep JL and JT bumpers are. The bolts are part of the tow hooks, not part of the bumper in any way at all. They are pressed into the tow hooks for the plastic OR steel MOPAR bumpers.

This is my bumper hanging from my gantry crane while I install the snow plow mounting bar brackets to the frame horns -

This is how the bumpers are held on - be they Rubicon steel bumper, or Overland "Plastic" bumper - by studs in the tow hooks.
Have you never had one apart?

Bottom of a Bulldog winch plate -

For the Rubicon type steel bumper, as well as others, the studs are pressed into the tow hooks - my tow hooks are black but you can see the studs pressed into the tow hooks like wheel studs.
These hold the bumper mounting brackets to the frame and then the bumper is literally built onto these brackets. Nothing is welded to the bumper.
I plated my bumper spacer blocks in yellow zinc - that's what is seen here in the middle.

Winch plate TEMOPRARILY held in place on the frame with a bold on each side until the side bolts are in place and torqued.

 

[ajkaz]

Does your bumper not have studs welded to it that mount through the 8 holes on the frame rail?

It does not. Holes in the outer aluminum shell, winch plate and D-Ring mounts all align at the frame horns. Grade 8 bolts and nuts thread through all pieces and sandwich them together. Most after market bumpers use this type of mounting.

Ill post pics when I install.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It does not. Holes in the outer aluminum shell, winch plate and D-Ring mounts all align at the frame horns. Grade 8 bolts and nuts thread through all pieces and sandwich them together. Most after market bumpers use this type of mounting.

Ill post pics when I install.

Same as stock, except with the D-ring mounts being sandwiched differently than the tow hooks in most cases.
Same sandwich, different meat applied in a different order in some cases.

 

[Mojave20]

Hello All,

Pulled the trigger on a new aluminum front bumper, from Under Cover Fab. Super happy with it so far, especially for the price, made in USA of 6061-T6.

https://undercoverfab.com/jeep-jk-0...-front-bumper-for-jeep-wrangler-jk-jl-jt.html

Time to get it finished up and mounted, but I'm curious as of the best way to finish it. I was originally thinking polished, but then realized how much work it is and that it requires a TON of upkeep from what I'm reading.

Definitely want to keep it raw, I see some use a scotch brite pad and wd-40 for a shiny brushed look, how long does that last?

It doesn't need to look perfect, but I'd like to go with the lowest maintenance raw finish I can, I live in Southern CA, but not near enough to the beach that corrosion is an issue.
Brushed would even look fine if it lasts.

Should it be top coated?

I do need to clean up some printing on it, what would I use for that?

I intend on running raw aluminum fenders in the distant future as well and would finish them in the same manner.

With the packing material, all bolts and accessories its weighs about 41 LBS. Impressive.

I did an overnight vinegar bath on the winch tray and frame/d-ring mounts, wiped off the mill scale.
Then hit them with a silicone carbide abrasive wheel to clean up and scratch for paint adhesion.

3 coats primer, 3 coats red enamel, I was trying to get close to the Rubicon tow hook red, its a little brighter, but I like it.

The enamel has a great gloss, and seems durable, do you think it needs a topcoat of clear??

Sharkhide is good for aluminum. Used in fab work on aluminum for a long time. Easy to remove with some lacquer thinner.

https://sharkhidestore.com/products/sharkhide-metal-and-aluminum-protectant

Mostly used in the marine world.

 

[chesafreak]

Dont really have any guidance. But in for final results. Polish and a clear I think would look sick had actually put a post out there a bit ago and got no hits on it. Never heard of the clear powder sounds like it would be even better.

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