Re-engineering the brick (keyfob)

[mazeppa]

I've pulled the RFID chip from 4 stock fobs.. Never once did I resort to using a utility knife. And no damage to any of the stock fobs...

What worked best for me even with the hardest RFID chip to remove, was to take a very thin bladed flat tip screwdriver (like you would use for watch repair) and use it.

Put the tip in the slight groove on the long side of the RFID chip, and then with a small tack hammer, tap on the head of the screwdriver gently.. The driver's blade will move downwards and spreads the side of the stock RFID holder a bit. Now, you can get something in the spread area and pry the RFID chip up.

I remove the RFID from two different fobs, the first one was so easy and worked as @Pepe described, the second was more difficult and just wouldn't release from the holder and I was afraid of damaging the chip so I sacrifice the OEM fob to the utility knife.

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[mazeppa]

@Pepe, yes I could put the guts back into my OEM fob and you would never know how hacked up the internals were.

 

[-miko-]

I remove the RFID from two different fobs, the first one was so easy and worked as @Pepe described, the second was more difficult and just wouldn't release from the holder and I was afraid of damaging the chip so I sacrifice the OEM fob to the utility knife.

Yep, I tried Pepe's way to no avail. Then was lazy and tried using a pocket knife to spread and pry - stupid rookie mistake. Ended up having to cut and pry down both the long and short side of the chip holder to finally get it to pry loose. Even then it wouldn't give up without a fight.

 

[Spur]

Arrived and works well. Mangled the FOB a little. Would still be usable but probably won’t ever need it.

Nice design. Great job. Thanks

 

[Gatorized]

I've pulled the RFID chip from 4 stock fobs.. Never once did I resort to using a utility knife. And no damage to any of the stock fobs...

What worked best for me even with the hardest RFID chip to remove, was to take a very thin bladed flat tip screwdriver (like you would use for watch repair) and use it.

Put the tip in the slight groove on the long side of the RFID chip, and then with a small tack hammer, tap on the head of the screwdriver gently.. The driver's blade will move downwards and spreads the side of the stock RFID holder a bit. Now, you can get something in the spread area and pry the RFID chip up.

I May be just a tad confused on all the RFID discussion... I have proximity locks and only pulled the circuit board out of the OEM fob and transplanted it onto the DI Labs fob... no chip was moved that I am aware of, and have no issues with the operation of my JT. Do I not have the RFID chip?

 

[mazeppa]

Look what showed up in the mail today, less than a 5-minute swap from my AJT fob.

Mustard hi-viz will easily shows up when misplaced/lost.

 

[andrew8404]

Mine finally came today! And all I can say is wow! The fit and finish with ease of installation makes this well worth the price!! The tactile feel of the buttons are so much better then the AJ one and OEM one. Here’s a picture of all three! Well done guys!!

 

[SwampNut]

I May be just a tad confused on all the RFID discussion... I have proximity locks and only pulled the circuit board out of the OEM fob and transplanted it onto the DI Labs fob... no chip was moved that I am aware of, and have no issues with the operation of my JT. Do I not have the RFID chip?

The proximity system is an ACTIVE system requiring battery power and intelligent communications. If the battery dies or the circuit dies, no go. There is also a passive system with a much smaller chip. If the active is dead, you press the passive against the start button, and it will work. It's a passive backup that pretty much has a near-zero failure record.

 

[SteveInOrlando]

Got mine today.

Getting the chip out was a royal pain. tried both of my FOBs. They were glued in, maybe a change for 2021. I ended up having the cut the plastic on one side so I could lay that section over and then it finally came out. Loved the storage spot in the new fob.

 

[SteveInOrlando]

Mine finally came today! And all I can say is wow! The fit and finish with ease of installation makes this well worth the price!! The tactile feel of the buttons are so much better then the AJ one and OEM one. Here’s a picture of all three! Well done guys!!

The weight reduction is amazing too. The empty case from the OEM fob weighs more than the fully assembled DI fob.

Loving it.

 

[mazeppa]

I got the min key holder, but I won't be using it because I have a internal and external hidden cut key blanks on the JT. Just want to immerse in minimalist key fob lifestyle.

 

[SwampNut]

The proximity system is an ACTIVE system requiring battery power and intelligent communications. If the battery dies or the circuit dies, no go. There is also a passive system with a much smaller chip. If the active is dead, you press the passive against the start button, and it will work. It's a passive backup that pretty much has a near-zero failure record.

Adding to this, I have never seen an active system fail, to give perspective. So the backup is nice, just have no idea how important it might be in the real world. We've got a 2011 BMW with active also, and even through low batteries, it has worked. None of my friends reported ever having a failure of the prox keys either. In a recent discussion, most didn't even know about the passive backup. I've walked into water with the JT fob and still had it work. So, no idea how important it is. I suppose, it doesn't matter at all...until it does. Your choice.

 

[mazeppa]

Anyway, RFID chip gets moved from the stock fob to the aftermarket fob... this is a must...!!!!

 

[Gatorized]

@Gatorized

YES, you have an RFID chip in your stock fob..

Yes, without RFID chip, in your aftermarket fob, the JT will start and act normal..

The battery powered circuit board is what is talking to your JT, not the RFID chip..

If your fob battery goes dead and the circuit board goes out of play so to speak, you will need to take the end of the fob with the RFID chip and press it against the start button while you push it in to start the JL.

Anyway, RFID chip gets moved from the stock fob to the aftermarket fob... this is a must...!!!!

By the way, the little RFID chip, all buy itself, out of the fob and pressed against the start button, while you press in , will start the JT...

So if I do not move the RFID Chip to the DI fob, I will be SOL if my battery dies... thanks for clearing that up for me!

 

[andrew8404]

The weight reduction is amazing too. The empty case from the OEM fob weighs more than the fully assembled DI fob.

Loving it.

Yup I agree. The weight difference is huge.

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