thinking about going to look at a basic Rubicon

[93civej1]

I am thinking about going to look at a Rubicon local to me. I currently have a 20 Gobi Max Tow, but am still getting the itch to trade during the crazy trade values.
i am not sure if the dealer is willing to negotiate too much from MSRP, but i have been told their trade in values are pretty strong right now.

Any tips or tricks to talk the best deal in the current auto market?

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[john#21]

i’m curious, why not build the Gobi?

this is what i would do if i was contemplating the same. i would see what kind of a deal you can get then compare that to the cost of building your current JT.

 

[NachoRuby]

i’m curious, why not build the Gobi?

this is what i would do if i was contemplating the same. i would see what kind of a deal you can get then compare that to the cost of building your current JT.

Thing is, they are paying more now for used ones than new ones cost, due to the scarcity of new ones. If you have a car to sell, and you can afford to wait for a new one to be made, now is the time.

My JT is worth 4k more than I bought it for now. I'd do the same (sell mine and build), except my color is discontinued, and I can't wait for a new one to be built. I'd have no vehicle in the meantime. If the dealer has what you want on the lot, you might be in luck.

 

[93civej1]

i’m curious, why not build the Gobi?

this is what i would do if i was contemplating the same. i would see what kind of a deal you can get then compare that to the cost of building your current JT.

I wanted a Rubi to begin with honestly, but at the time it wasnt in the cards for me at that point. Now I am in a better position, and the trade in values are enticing. Im not sure I could add lockers / e-disconnect, and the transfer case etc for about the same price i paid for the MaxTow. My payments would also go down in the process if all played out right.

 

[john#21]

I wanted a Rubi to begin with honestly, but at the time it wasnt in the cards for me at that point. Now I am in a better position, and the trade in values are enticing. Im not sure I could add lockers / e-disconnect, and the transfer case etc for about the same price i paid for the MaxTow. My payments would also go down in the process if all played out right.

i see, that all makes sense, i didn’t realize that you would possibly make money on the trade. in that case do it!!

i wish i had advice on how to haggle.

 

[93civej1]

i see, that all makes sense, i didn’t realize that you would possibly make money on the trade. in that case do it!!

i wish i had advice on how to haggle.

Yes sir. I wouldnt even consider if I was not making profit on the trade value, and decreasing payment in the process.

 

[awraynor]

i see, that all makes sense, i didn’t realize that you would possibly make money on the trade. in that case do it!!

i wish i had advice on how to haggle.

It's about the art/psychology of the deal. Most of us go into battle unarmed.


https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzGxSaDv_5dgSe4RgJ99sfA

 

[u-joint]

Here's a few tips to get the most out of this transaction:

1. Get quotes (and print them out) from CarMax, Carvana, etc. Keep these secret for now.
2. Get a treadlightly membership (so you can get an FCA control number).
3. Research all Rubicons on lots within a 5 to 6 hour drive, and build a spreadsheet with their location, price, & options.

With all this info in hand you can do a few things;

1. You'll know worst case what you're going to get for your trade. Worst case you leave the dealership and drive to CarMax and sell your car and come back and finish the deal. Ideally you use this as leverage. They don't want you to leave the lot. Always negate your trade last, and only after the car deal is to your liking. You're in 100% control of this deal.
2. You know that at worst case you can get 1% off invoice with your FCA control #. Don't tell them this. This is your fall back. You're negating an even lower number ideally.
3. Pick the cheapest, similar Rubicon from your spreadsheet and offer them that price. Don't immediately tell them where you came up with that number, just offer them that price. They'll negate up, and that's fine, but you've got leverage to walk to another dealer (or use your FCA #).

I've used similar techniques before and have never paid anything close to MSRP. The same technique (sans the FCA control number bit) even works for Asian manufactures which don't have nearly the same level of holdbacks that use manufactures offer dealers.

Whatever you do, don't let them get to you with the microchip shortage shenanigans. It's true there's a shortage, but it's also true that they want to sell cars so they can pay their bills.

 

[93civej1]

Here's a few tips to get the most out of this transaction:

1. Get quotes (and print them out) from CarMax, Carvana, etc. Keep these secret for now.
2. Get a treadlightly membership (so you can get an FCA control number).
3. Research all Rubicons on lots within a 5 to 6 hour drive, and build a spreadsheet with their location, price, & options.

With all this info in hand you can do a few things;

1. You'll know worst case what you're going to get for your trade. Worst case you leave the dealership and drive to CarMax and sell your car and come back and finish the deal. Ideally you use this as leverage. They don't want you to leave the lot. Always negate your trade last, and only after the car deal is to your liking. You're in 100% control of this deal.
2. You know that at worst case you can get 1% off invoice with your FCA control #. Don't tell them this. This is your fall back. You're negating an even lower number ideally.
3. Pick the cheapest, similar Rubicon from your spreadsheet and offer them that price. Don't immediately tell them where you came up with that number, just offer them that price. They'll negate up, and that's fine, but you've got leverage to walk to another dealer (or use your FCA #).

I've used similar techniques before and have never paid anything close to MSRP. The same technique (sans the FCA control number bit) even works for Asian manufactures which don't have nearly the same level of holdbacks that use manufactures offer dealers.

Whatever you do, don't let them get to you with the microchip shortage shenanigans. It's true there's a shortage, but it's also true that they want to sell cars so they can pay their bills.

This info is excellent. I’m sitting here now. The trade number that came back is like 10k less than I would have expected from values online , instant offers etc.

 

[be77solo]

This info is excellent. I’m sitting here now. The trade number that came back is like 10k less than I would have expected from values online , instant offers etc.

The online values are legit, the dealer is just lowballing you on your trade.

Carvana was my highest, and in the end to not lose the deal, my local dealer came up to and beat the Carvana price by $100.

KBB instant offer was also strong. Vroom was decent. Carmax was the lowest, but in the past on other vehicles they've been higher too.

Use the online offers to your advantage, and if dealer won't play ball, any of the online places will buy your truck no problem and get you money so you can go buy a new one.

 

[93civej1]

The online values are legit, the dealer is just lowballing you on your trade.

Carvana was my highest, and in the end to not lose the deal, my local dealer came up to and beat the Carvana price by $100.

KBB instant offer was also strong. Vroom was decent. Carmax was the lowest, but in the past on other vehicles they've been higher too.

Use the online offers to your advantage, and if dealer won't play ball, any of the online places will buy your truck no problem and get you money so you can go buy a new one.

haha yeah, they were low balling like crazy on trade values compared to all of the figures i see / get on instants etc. I told them basically that they were silly, and if I wanted to, i could sell to one of those, make profit, and then turn around and do a factory order from Gupton at 8% below invoice. They basically looked at me like I was lying / crazy.

 

[be77solo]

haha yeah, they were low balling like crazy on trade values compared to all of the figures i see / get on instants etc. I told them basically that they were silly, and if I wanted to, i could sell to one of those, make profit, and then turn around and do a factory order from Gupton at 8% below invoice. They basically looked at me like I was lying / crazy.

Yep, you absolutely can.

Similar initial dealer experience when I bought mine. They low balled my trade, added a bunch of dealer BS addons that jacked up the new truck price, I was having none of it.

Ironically, walked into another dealer just across the state line, and they said they did have a truck like I was looking for, but had to go grab it..... turns out to be the exact same truck I tried to buy a few days earlier from dealer #1. Apparently dealer #1 and dealer #2 are owned by the same guy so cross sell vehicles, but totally different management.

Ended up getting $100 over Carvana for my trade (+$8k than I paid for the the '19 Tundra new), and a good deal on the new Gladiator without all the crap dealer #1 was adding to the price.

Dealerships are weird and make no sense ha.

 

[RaleighRubicon]

The online values are legit, the dealer is just lowballing you on your trade.

Carvana was my highest, and in the end to not lose the deal, my local dealer came up to and beat the Carvana price by $100.

KBB instant offer was also strong. Vroom was decent. Carmax was the lowest, but in the past on other vehicles they've been higher too.

Use the online offers to your advantage, and if dealer won't play ball, any of the online places will buy your truck no problem and get you money so you can go buy a new one.

First Post! I am looking to get into a Gladiator too.

I just wanted to add to cast a wide net on getting trade-in value. Strangely CARVANA was my lowest appraisal of the 9 I got these past two weeks. (That list includes 2 Jeep dealers, 2 Toyota dealers, Carmax, carvana, vroom, driveway and KBB.) I am in a 2018 Tacoma TRD Pro and maybe they are harder to price but my offers ranged from $35k to $44k (Sticker was $42k I think)

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