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Top quality lift under 2 inches

WhyNotJeep

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Looking to do a small quality lift under 2 inches. I learned the hard way with a 4 inch lift on a JKUR. Besides a spacer lift, does anyone make a quality lift at 2 inches or less. Mojave Road and Death Valley off road, not Rubicon Trail. Must maintain a great highway ride.
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kevman65

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Synergy carry's a +1" and a +2" spring. Try talking to them.

They are softer than most aftermarket springs, but stiffer than what is on a Rubicon from the factory.
 

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Doesn’t a leveling kit and lift effect ride quality negatively?
If all you are doing is using spacers then yes. This kit includes taller springs, longer end links, upper control arms to correct geometry, and a track bar to re center your axle.
 

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If all you are doing is using spacers then yes. This kit includes taller springs, longer end links, upper control arms to correct geometry, and a track bar to re center your axle.
So ride quality still won’t be effected negatively with this kit?
 

mx5red

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Fwiw I think the AEV 2” spacer lift is top notch. I added geometry correction brackets, or cheaper could add the Mopar LCAs from the Mopar lift that are like $80 to get some caster back.
Mine steers better than stock now, didn’t notice any downside.
 

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So ride quality still won’t be effected negatively with this kit?
OP is asking for options <2” and unfortunately there are not many options for this other than spacers which will negatively impact ride quality. The Clayton kit I linked will resolve some of the issues you would normally get just using spacers (front upper control arms correct caster for improved steering over just spacers, front adjustable track bar re centers the axle left to right under the frame). If you want to lift your jeep AND have the best ride quality possible you would need more parts (front & rear upper/lower control arms, front/rear track bars, geometry correction brackets, track bar relocation brackets) to correct every angle and get it back to as close to stock spec as possible. The kits that include these parts are usually 3.5 - 6 inches of lift because the taller you go the further out of spec you get.
 

JET_83

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OP is asking for options <2” and unfortunately there are not many options for this other than spacers which will negatively impact ride quality. The Clayton kit I linked will resolve some of the issues you would normally get just using spacers (front upper control arms correct caster for improved steering over just spacers, front adjustable track bar re centers the axle left to right under the frame). If you want to lift your jeep AND have the best ride quality possible you would need more parts (front & rear upper/lower control arms, front/rear track bars, geometry correction brackets, track bar relocation brackets) to correct every angle and get it back to as close to stock spec as possible. The kits that include these parts are usually 3.5 - 6 inches of lift because the taller you go the further out of spec you get.
Thank you very much!
 

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If all you are doing is using spacers then yes. This kit includes taller springs, longer end links, upper control arms to correct geometry, and a track bar to re center your axle.
Why would spacers change the ride? Same exact springs and they are compressed exactly the same because they carry the same weight.
Didn't change my ride any.
Explain the science of keeping the same exact springs and yet having negative impact on ride. Can't make it more harsh, can't make it more soft. Only a spring change can do that.
 

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Spacer lifts will ride very similar to stock, anytime you raise a JT and change the angle of the control arms the felt impact from bumps will be harsher even with longer control arms, the only way to maintain the stock felt impact from bumps is to lower the frame attachment point of the control arms with geometry correction brackets which allow the control arms to remain parallel to the ground. If you like the way the JT rides stock get the AEV spacer lift and their or Rancho geometry correction brackets and the ride will be exactly the same. The track bar has little to no impact on the ride or handling and just recenters the front axle the .25” it will be shifted to one side from the lift.
 

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Spacer lifts will ride very similar to stock, anytime you raise a JT and change the angle of the control arms the felt impact from bumps will be harsher even with longer control arms, the only way to maintain the stock felt impact from bumps is to lower the frame attachment point of the control arms with geometry correction brackets which allow the control arms to remain parallel to the ground.
Yes, what you say makes good sense as the control arms are hanging down at more of an angle and so there's more of an up-push on a bump that simply pivoting from level.
The effect would be none to minimal with a small lift, but would be felt more with a greater lift because the arms swing in an arc. Geometry correcting brackets to make the arms parallel again resolves that.
I raised mine about 1" with the springs and then 3/4" with the Daystar spacers. The ride in the front really doesn't feel different. The difference was the weight I put on it.


If you like the way the JT rides stock get the AEV spacer lift and their or Rancho geometry correction brackets and the ride will be exactly the same. The track bar has little to no impact on the ride or handling and just recenters the front axle the .25” it will be shifted to one side from the lift.
Yes.
My net gain lift-wise was about 1.25" and it rides fine up front (it's the rear that's harsher because of the max tow springs and the fox shocks I'm not impressed with)
 

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That’s why I look forward to getting my Overland. I dunno why people would want to sacrifice ride quality for a lift, but that’s me…
 

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That’s why I look forward to getting my Overland. I dunno why people would want to sacrifice ride quality for a lift, but that’s me…
You don't have to. Not if you do it like MAC explained.
Mine rode better than any truck I have ever owned, even better than some cars, before I swapped shocks and springs around.
That's why if I trade - I'd rethink what I did........
 

JET_83

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You don't have to. Not if you do it like MAC explained.
Mine rode better than any truck I have ever owned, even better than some cars, before I swapped shocks and springs around.
That's why if I trade - I'd rethink what I did........
But you said your rear rode more harshly, I’d want a more plush ride all around
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