TPMS initially working on set of wheels then all 4 stopped working same day?

[ShadowsPapa]

Just for kicks, check with Benny on his current prices for the sensors you need. I got 5 of them from him - genuine MOPAR parts, discounted and sometimes you can get a code for free or discounted shipping. Allmoparparts is his thing here on the forum and he's got a big thread out there where you can check in with him.
Buy where you want, of course - but I don't mind giving forum sponsors a try especially since they are mopar and if the difference is only 5 bucks, what the heck.

Discount tire is also a sponsor and people have had great luck with 'em. Good idea to give a well-known outfit a shot.


(I'm soured on RA for most stuff - sorry, been stung badly on some not so cheap parts like steering dampeners and such so I don't support RA unless I have no choice. Amazon actually beats them most of the time anyway)

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[ejcr032]

initially posted this in another thread by mistake:

Ended up getting this done at Discount Tire for $130. Decided to reuse my original sensors so it was just a swap out. Appreciate the help and comments on this.

Follow up question regarding the speedo and slightly larger wheel diameter.
I believe my stock wheel/tire combo gave me about a 31.5" wheel diameter and the Rubicon set gives me 32.7".
It's not a drastic difference and was wondering if anyone's done the math on how significant this is as far as MPH and MPG displayed?
Also curious to know if this has an adverse affect on the transmission if the speedo cal isn't accurate?

Otherwise very happy with the suspension and wheel upgrade. I was on the fence about spacers but ended up putting a 2" set on there and it looks great.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

initially posted this in another thread by mistake:

Ended up getting this done at Discount Tire for $130. Decided to reuse my original sensors so it was just a swap out. Appreciate the help and comments on this.

Follow up question regarding the speedo and slightly larger wheel diameter.
I believe my stock wheel/tire combo gave me about a 31.5" wheel diameter and the Rubicon set gives me 32.7".
It's not a drastic difference and was wondering if anyone's done the math on how significant this is as far as MPH and MPG displayed?
Also curious to know if this has an adverse affect on the transmission if the speedo cal isn't accurate?

Otherwise very happy with the suspension and wheel upgrade. I was on the fence about spacers but ended up putting a 2" set on there and it looks great.

Don't give them an excuse to deny warranty when they see you've been going a lot farther than the odometer states.......
It will impact shift points to a degree - how much? Got time for two identical trucks side by side one correct and the other not? Even then shifting is based in part on how the truck was originally driven so you can't ever find two identical trucks to do such a test - no control.
Keep in mind that some states give you a leeway on speeds. I push Iowa's 10 over law but if I was going 12 over and thought I was only doing 10 over.......


I always wonder - why is it that people don't prefer accurate speedometers and odometers?
It's so damned easy to change!

 

[Discount Tire]

@ejcr032 and @ShadowsPapa,

Thanks for the shout out, we thank you for your support.

 

[ejcr032]

So I finally got around to recalibrating the speedo. I got myself a Veepeak BLE OBD2 and the SGM bypass cable set.
I'm a little perplexed by what I found.
Using Jscan, turns out the original value had the wheels defined as 32.5".
I measured the new rubicon wheelset at 32" and reprogrammed with that value.
Why would there have been a value originally set that's so much larger than what the factory wheels really are?
The factory wheels are visibly smaller diameter than the rubicon with the wildpeaks.
What gives?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So I finally got around to recalibrating the speedo. I got myself a Veepeak BLE OBD2 and the SGM bypass cable set.
I'm a little perplexed by what I found.
Using Jscan, turns out the original value had the wheels defined as 32.5".
I measured the new rubicon wheelset at 32" and reprogrammed with that value.
Why would there have been a value originally set that's so much larger than what the factory wheels really are?
The factory wheels are visibly smaller diameter than the rubicon with the wildpeaks.
What gives?

Because there's ROLLING circumference and rolling diameters. What you measure will get you close - but don't rest on that number.
The system also goes by circumference in mm - so there's some math involved.
The software shows you diameters, then it's changed to the tire's circumference. The system assumes rolling circumference.
A tire that's xx" around doesn't roll down the highway that many inches for one revolution. It squishes as it rolls.

Best thing is with tire INSTALLED and inflated to the pressure you will finally use, measure from the ground up to the top of the tire and use that TO START WITH. Then check it against GPS and go from there - adjust up or down to get your final number.

Don't try to out-think it or over-think it.

This is how the line looks in the BCM -
Dynamic Tire Circumference (All or Rear) (0-65534 mm):

Since that would confuse the hell out of most people, the software shows you choices in easy to understand or determine language.
Note the term "DYNAMIC".

Plug in what it needs and go from there.

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