Trouble with Morimoto XB LED DRLs...

[Little_Feller]

Hello, looking for some advice on upgrading my DRLs to these Morimoto XB's. My '22 Overland came with factory halogens and I upgraded the headlights to Oracle Oculus, no issues at all. I just started swapping my DRLs to the Morimoto's today, and just finished the driver's side. I'm getting kinda random issues when testing them. I can start the truck, and DRLs light up just fine, and then if I turn on the turn signal, the sequential turn signal works fine as well, but when I turn it off, the DRL goes dark and doesn't come back on. I can turn the truck off and back on, and the DRL comes back on again normally, but if I turn on the turn signal it goes dark again. I haven't done the passenger side yet, I wanted to test the first side before moving on the other one, so now I'm wondering, do I really have an issue or do I just have the truck weirding out because one side is LED and one side is still halogen? If anybody has experienced this, or has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it!

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[tattoedbouquet]

I swapped the entire front end to Morimoto XB. Sealed7, Turn Signals with DRL and Sequential, as well as the Fogs. So, I'm changing direction on the fenders, but... to answer your question. My 23 JTRG was Halogen from the factory. I swapped all the halogens to Morimoto, and I immediately went to my Tazer Mini, and reprogrammed the vehicle to LED (Headlights, Turn Signals, and Fogs.) After that, zero issues. If you don't have a Tazer, you need one asap.

 

[Little_Feller]

Thanks, that's helpful. I was wondering the same thing, should I just bite the bullet and get a Tazer to help with this. I did install the resistors that come with the Miromotos, which in theory are supposed to keep you from needing to reprogram. Did you install the resistors in addition to using the Tazer?

 

[aprez27]

Thanks, that's helpful. I was wondering the same thing, should I just bite the bullet and get a Tazer to help with this. I did install the resistors that come with the Miromotos, which in theory are supposed to keep you from needing to reprogram. Did you install the resistors in addition to using the Tazer?

Definitely worth it, especially if you're going to do more upgrades later, like bigger tires/gears.

 

[Volksparts]

Could be wierding out because only one side like you said. But, also I noticed if say battery is low on voltage (ie not running truck while testing). That also affects the functioning of these lights for testing purposes.

Just thought about another thing....the drls won't come back on until you drive the car over a certain speed. I noticed that's a function I don't think it's just the morimotos but also for our jeeps in general. I once thought I was having a problem once but the forums taught me this. So the thing you are describing sounds exactly what's happening.

 

[Little_Feller]

Actually, the passenger side went well, no issues, so I rechecked my connections on the driver's side and now both sides are working as expected. I think I had the connection that provides power to the side marker about 90% so it was causing a random issue with the driver's side.

Pretty pleased with the Morimoto's now, but wondering - should I still switch to LED with the Tazer or leave it alone since there are ballasts in place, or does it matter?

 

[Klicht87]

Those lights have a resistor pack on the turn signal wires so you shouldn't need to but it doesn't hurt. I have JSCAN which was free but it cost about $25 for a license/vin and a security cable/obdII adapter which ended up being about $60.

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