What are these 4 wires that go to the tailgate brakelight?

[ParatusExpeditions]

https://www.canopylocks.com.au/alu-cab.html

Oh sh** $192 for the whole kit?
That’s exactly what I needed.

EDIT: misses the rear barn door, still need to find a good affordable (to me) system for that part. But the side windows would be all covered with this kit.

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[fourfa]

I have the 4x kit here, partway through install. I’ll post up details this week

 

[ParatusExpeditions]

Planning on using their remote or the tailgate lock signal wire?
I'd like to interface to that lock wire, just haven't checked what's the output of it and if it's compatible with those. Since they're actuators I think it'll work as they rest at 0V.

 

[fourfa]

Planning to use the tailgate lock wires, but I have their control box too if I need it. I don’t want to carry another remote, even though they’re small. And so far no luck with using the “learning” function to copy the stock remote

 

[ParatusExpeditions]

Awesome, let me know. My plan as well, goal was to not have keys and locks with me so certainly not looking for another remote!

 

[fourfa]

 

[fourfa]

Hm, forum software breaks when attaching video, couldn't add text above. That's the simplest possible setup, actuator directly wired to the tailgate power lock signal. Looks like it works great. Following the wiring diagram, power locks are on F28, fused at 40A. Vendor says these miniature pin actuators pull 675 mA each when moving, so 4x = an additional 2.7 A. But we've gone from 5 stock power lock modules to 4... I'm going to continue testing 1, 2, 3, then 4 modules on the stock circuit and see what the multimeter says about current draw, and voltage on the line. If there's any sign of trouble I'll insert a relay, but for simplicity I'd love it if it just works directly

I hear you about the rear door, I have a lot of notes about possible DIY solutions for that. I don't see why a generic $7 linear door lock actuator won't work with a simple pin latch

 

[ParatusExpeditions]

Looks like we're aligned on this (rear door & actuator on original circuit).
Thanks for reporting!
Relay should be easy to do as well (and maybe needed with the 5th for the rear door?) if one has a battery in the back or tap onto a stronger circuit like maybe the trailer plug?

 

[fourfa]

I have my camper power set up on one of the aux circuits, which I don't want to leave hot all the time. I looked at wiring to the trailer plug in the beginning, but on my truck it seemed to only be hot with ignition on. Eventually I'll probably wire up a proper electrical panel, with hot power, switched AUX power, master switches for interior lights and chargers, solar, house battery etc.

Power locks on an Alu-Cab? Can you post about that in this thread? https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/alu-cab-gladiator-bed-cap.30322/page-40

Done - sorry for all the OT here

 

[Free2roam]

I got an Alu-Cab canopy and I want to connect the canopy brake light to this light.

This is under the bed near the rear bumper.
The top wiring plug has 4 wires.

When I checked for continuity to ground I had continuity on the two wires on the right, and the far left green wire. each of them also showed a few milivolts of DC current. I'm no car wiring guy, no idea what this means.

The white with green stripe had 12 volts when the brake was on. So if I can't find a good ground under the bed, I'll probably tap into the black wire for ground and hope it works. I might also inspect the wiring under the tailgate cover to see if maybe i have a better time figuring out which one is truly ground.

I ended up just purchasing the harness for the tailgate. I will end up plugging into where the old one was removed when my OVRLND Camper was installed. I'm hoping I should be just able to plug in, clip the wires butt splice into the third brake light and bada bing bada boom

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