i dont like tapping into fuses and having wires hang out of the fuse box. It looks messy imo and prefer to cut, splice, and heat shrink. I had the switchpro install manual but seem to have lost it.
The fuse would be powered all the time - sounds like he wants a trigger.
The fuse will be hot all the time. It won't be a trigger. Both sides of the fuse will have power on, lights on or not.
Yes trigger is what I'm looking for, not a constant hot, thank you for clarifying that.The fuse would be powered all the time - sounds like he wants a trigger.
So that means going to the wire going to the trailer connector.
The fuse will be hot all the time. It won't be a trigger. Both sides of the fuse will have power on, lights on or not.
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It's all in the same connector going to the lights in the front fender. The connector is straight up from the top of the front shock and clipped to the body. Not easy access.
I'll find out tomorrow if it warms above 40 degrees.
Awesome thank you! Splice will be with rosin core solder, then coated with dielectric, and sealed with heat shrink, and more electrical tape over that. I've never had a failed splice in 25 years. But then again I also haven't spliced on a vehicle with such close electrical tolerances to determine when bulbs are out.
In a sense, we are doing similar.
What's the part number for that? I didn't see it on their JT list of accessories. That's a great idea.In a sense, we are doing similar.
I have to get into the left turn, park, DRL, right turn on my truck to trigger the correct lights on the snow plow.
I received the Oracle adapters today and with luck, they come with a pigtail already tapped into the turn, park and ground wires.
So I'll take their tap off the park of one of the adapters and move it to the DRL of that one and be able to take park and left turn off one side, and DRL and right turn off the other and leave their ground alone as it's not hurting anything.
I bought the other side of that small round black connector from Amazon and will wire that to the plow harness when it arrives.
To be fair to Oracle, I took off their wrap and shielding to get to the wires inside as I do need to move the small red wire off the large red wire and to the white wire to get the DRL signal, don't need park signal from both sides.
But this will be a plug and play solution, I won't be cutting the truck's factory harness and won't be messing with the plow harness other than putting the small round black connector on the ends of their loose wires.
You have to get up to the connector between the fender liner and body, about straight up from the top of the shock.
No, fuse F90 is on the switched side of the trailer park lamp relay.
^^^ That is 100% wrong.
There is an opening in the fusebox cover on the inboard side that makes running the wire out clean & easy. Use some wire loom or harness wrap and you'll never even notice its there. Heck, I didn't even wrap my wire, I just secured it to the outside of existing wiring and I can't even see it. IMO it's the best way to do it since you don't have to worry about sealing the splice or fatigue failures.
You don't have to prove it or explain - I was thinking old-school. It was before the systems these use that every line as fully fused from source before any switch. These aren't conventional switches, they send signals, don't do the switching.
Yes, I was thinking old-school, not modern Jeeps. My head was in the past, not these that actually regulate the voltage to the lights among other things.
