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Comparing a tuned JTRD to one regeared with 4.56s, both on 37s.

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TL;Dr:
Compared my buddy's stock JTRD with 4.56 gears to my tuned JTRD with factory gears. Both on 37" KO2s.
1. Power to the pavement: Tune.
2. Normal acceleration from stop: 4.56s.
3. Cruising at 45 MPH: Tune
4. Cruising between 65-80: 4.56s

Not always satisfied with the tune on my stock geared Rubicon diesel with 37" KO2s.
Granted it's my daily work truck and usually has about 3-400lbs in the bed, but still. 500+lbs of torque I guess I was expecting 6 second 0-60 times with no discernable turbo lag.

I remember driving it around after installing it. Acceleration felt telepathic as if an unseen force was pulling the truck forward. Woohoo! This was what I signed up for! Then aftera while it felt like performance was slipping. Was I just getting jaded having all that disposable power all the time or was the computer figuring out a way to detune the tune?
My driving habits are 97% driving Ms Daisy and 3% pedal to the metal but when I get on it I expect PAYMENT IN FULL. After months of pondering and a couple really lackluster pulls, I decided to contact the tuner. I was told there was a portion of the PCM that would overwrite some throttle and I believe trans inputs, and that I needed an alfa obd tool and a $50 app to unwrite it.
Has anyone here done this? Is there a tutorial? There's a bunch of devices and apps and I'm not sure where to start.

In the meantime a buddy with a '22 JTRD (mine's a '21) with the same tires gets 4.56 gears installed and I want to know the difference in characteristics because I've always believed my Jeep would benefit significantly with regearing, so I took his for a spin, put it through a few paces and the results were interesting. I compared several driving modes:
1.Off the line WOT acceleration.
2. Normal acceleration from a stop.
3. 45 MPH cruising.
4. 65-80 MPH cruising.

1. My very first surprise was that when it comes to performance; gears don't even begin to compensate for a tune. The raw power on tap with the tune never gave the regear even a fighting chance. Night and day difference.
2. The regeared engine definitely feels it's performing more effortlessly off the line under normal acceleration. No hint of lugging. A happy engine doing a happy job. I believe there's a lot of fuel savings going on here with the 4.56s.
3. If there is a place where the stock gears with a tune shines, it's here. 8th gear @ 45-55 MPH in this configuration will likely yield the best MPGs of any other. It's the sweet spot and I believe if you gassed up and pulled onto a flat 45-55mph road with no contrary wind and no stops, you wouldn't have to gas again for another 600 miles. This is the only place I believe the tune alone provides any economy and that is undermined somewhat at higher speeds and accelerating from a stop.
4. I'm going to blame the factory gearing at these higher speeds for not allowing the benefit of more power to be brought to bear against the increased wind resistance. Whether accelerating from a stop or highway cruising, the tune does not perform well under 2000rpms. Not that the lugging can't be overcome with more pedal, but the high vacuum effortlessness in the +2000rpm range is not there. Yes the rpms were higher by a couple hundred and yes the diesel is a supposedly low rpm performer with full torque on tap well below at 1600rpm, but it's apparent the engine runs much more efficiently under load at higher rpms.

Now, if I can only get my hands on a JTRD with 37" KO2s and 4.11 gearing...
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Nice write-up! Are you considering gearing to 4:11 or 4:56 with the tune?
Thank you. Yes, I'm still undecided on which gear ratio.
As miniscule as it sounds I think there's overall gains to be had with 4.11s while not winding out the top end, BUT... I work out of my Gladiator in the city/ burbs with 300-400lbs of gear in back and all the starts would benefit from 4.56s.
In this configuration I think 4.30 would be perfect so I have to choose between top or bottom end. I'm convinced my mileage woes (<19mpg avg) are from the many starts while over weighted and under geared so I'm leaning to the 4.56s which if I go that route, besides anticipating better mileage and longer engine/ transmission life, this thing will be one tire burning monster, lol.
 

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TL;Dr:
Compared my buddy's stock JTRD with 4.56 gears to my tuned JTRD with factory gears. Both on 37" KO2s.
1. Power to the pavement: Tune.
2. Normal acceleration from stop: 4.56s.
3. Cruising at 45 MPH: Tune
4. Cruising between 65-80: 4.56s

Not always satisfied with the tune on my stock geared Rubicon diesel with 37" KO2s.
Granted it's my daily work truck and usually has about 3-400lbs in the bed, but still. 500+lbs of torque I guess I was expecting 6 second 0-60 times with no discernable turbo lag.

I remember driving it around after installing it. Acceleration felt telepathic as if an unseen force was pulling the truck forward. Woohoo! This was what I signed up for! Then aftera while it felt like performance was slipping. Was I just getting jaded having all that disposable power all the time or was the computer figuring out a way to detune the tune?
My driving habits are 97% driving Ms Daisy and 3% pedal to the metal but when I get on it I expect PAYMENT IN FULL. After months of pondering and a couple really lackluster pulls, I decided to contact the tuner. I was told there was a portion of the PCM that would overwrite some throttle and I believe trans inputs, and that I needed an alfa obd tool and a $50 app to unwrite it.
Has anyone here done this? Is there a tutorial? There's a bunch of devices and apps and I'm not sure where to start.

In the meantime a buddy with a '22 JTRD (mine's a '21) with the same tires gets 4.56 gears installed and I want to know the difference in characteristics because I've always believed my Jeep would benefit significantly with regearing, so I took his for a spin, put it through a few paces and the results were interesting. I compared several driving modes:
1.Off the line WOT acceleration.
2. Normal acceleration from a stop.
3. 45 MPH cruising.
4. 65-80 MPH cruising.

1. My very first surprise was that when it comes to performance; gears don't even begin to compensate for a tune. The raw power on tap with the tune never gave the regear even a fighting chance. Night and day difference.
2. The regeared engine definitely feels it's performing more effortlessly off the line under normal acceleration. No hint of lugging. A happy engine doing a happy job. I believe there's a lot of fuel savings going on here with the 4.56s.
3. If there is a place where the stock gears with a tune shines, it's here. 8th gear @ 45-55 MPH in this configuration will likely yield the best MPGs of any other. It's the sweet spot and I believe if you gassed up and pulled onto a flat 45-55mph road with no contrary wind and no stops, you wouldn't have to gas again for another 600 miles. This is the only place I believe the tune alone provides any economy and that is undermined somewhat at higher speeds and accelerating from a stop.
4. I'm going to blame the factory gearing at these higher speeds for not allowing the benefit of more power to be brought to bear against the increased wind resistance. Whether accelerating from a stop or highway cruising, the tune does not perform well under 2000rpms. Not that the lugging can't be overcome with more pedal, but the high vacuum effortlessness in the +2000rpm range is not there. Yes the rpms were higher by a couple hundred and yes the diesel is a supposedly low rpm performer with full torque on tap well below at 1600rpm, but it's apparent the engine runs much more efficiently under load at higher rpms.

Now, if I can only get my hands on a JTRD with 37" KO2s and 4.11 gearing...
I’m curious- so when you are comparing raw power is it from a stop or rolling? The reason why i ask- and please don’t quote me- I might be off on % by 10 or so- however, I hear that factory tuned the motor derates 1st gear by 40% and second by 30% limiting torque…. A tune removes the gearing limitation which now not only are you tuned for more power- but the realized power is able to be put into use…..

Does this make sense? So curious the 40mph and then WOT difference between the two. ?

Ko2’s are great tires- not trashing by any means. But when we regear our diesel we are going to 4.88’s…. Minimal rpm difference but should help with weight and larger 37-38” tires. (Something to think about- unless you are going to run ko2’s indefinitely.)
 

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Love the write up. I am definitely planning on tuning and re gearing my eco diesel so I am looking forward to seeing what you go with and the results.

Think I will regear to 4:56 first then the tune.
 

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This is what happens to all of us that build fast cars. Truck did not get slower.... You got used to it.
After several big turbo Audis I can tell you its true. You end up chasing the rush and it gets exponentially more and more expensive.


I remember driving it around after installing it. Acceleration felt telepathic as if an unseen force was pulling the truck forward. Woohoo! This was what I signed up for! Then aftera while it felt like performance was slipping. Was I just getting jaded having all that disposable power all the time or was the computer figuring out a way to detune the tune?
My driving habits are 97% driving Ms Daisy and 3% pedal to the metal but when I get on it I expect PAYMENT IN FULL. After months of pondering and a couple really lackluster pulls, I decided to contact the tuner. I was told there was a portion of the PCM that would overwrite some throttle and I believe trans inputs, and that I needed an alfa obd tool and a $50 app to unwrite it.
Has anyone here done this? Is there a tutorial? There's a bunch of devices and apps and I'm not sure where to start.
 

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I’m curious- so when you are comparing raw power is it from a stop or rolling? The reason why i ask- and please don’t quote me- I might be off on % by 10 or so- however, I hear that factory tuned the motor derates 1st gear by 40% and second by 30% limiting torque…. A tune removes the gearing limitation which now not only are you tuned for more power- but the realized power is able to be put into use…..

Does this make sense? So curious the 40mph and then WOT difference between the two. ?

Ko2’s are great tires- not trashing by any means. But when we regear our diesel we are going to 4.88’s…. Minimal rpm difference but should help with weight and larger 37-38” tires. (Something to think about- unless you are going to run ko2’s indefinitely.)
At 75-80mph thats a bunch of RPM on a diesel..
 

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Tire size for a 37 varies from a tiny 34.8" bfg to a full 36.5" baja boss MT. So depending on what you are running, varies your 80 mph cruise rpm. So not knowing the specific tire makes KNOWING impossible. Most 37's are 36ish. That puts you at 2330 at 80mph. Close enough?
 

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This is what happens to all of us that build fast cars. Truck did not get slower.... You got used to it.
After several big turbo Audis I can tell you its true. You end up chasing the rush and it gets exponentially more and more expensive.
A lot of my boosted friends started out at around 10 lbs of boost (450 to 500 hp) and worked their way up to the point where they started to lift the heads at 29 lbs of boost(1000+hp). All chasing that rush. I stopped at 700HP.
 

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What tune do you have? I thought I remembered GDE saying that their trans tune doesnt do well with regears. Sounds like a tune from them would be more beneficial than a regear and cheaper anyway, except for the hassle of swapping PCMs.
 
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I’m curious- so when you are comparing raw power is it from a stop or rolling? The reason why i ask- and please don’t quote me- I might be off on % by 10 or so- however, I hear that factory tuned the motor derates 1st gear by 40% and second by 30% limiting torque…. A tune removes the gearing limitation which now not only are you tuned for more power- but the realized power is able to be put into use…..

Does this make sense? So curious the 40mph and then WOT difference between the two. ?

Ko2’s are great tires- not trashing by any means. But when we regear our diesel we are going to 4.88’s…. Minimal rpm difference but should help with weight and larger 37-38” tires. (Something to think about- unless you are going to run ko2’s indefinitely.)
I didn't consider rolling from 40 mph. I could only rag on my buddy's new Jeep so much, lol. I will say that as far as any throttle application the tuned Jeep is considerably more responsive and once at speed it will downshift to compensate so that is a moot point anyway.
Think I will regear to 4:56 first then the tune.
I would suggest the opposite: I could live without a regear. I couldn't live without the tune.
What is the RPM at 75-80mph?
IIRC my buddy's (4.56s) is about 2600-2700 at 80mph and it felt effortless. Mine is about 2300 and it feels like it's working.
You end up chasing the rush and it gets exponentially more and more expensive.
I got ripped by the same friend who just doesn't get it.
Sounds like a tune from them would be more beneficial than a regear and cheaper anyway, except for the hassle of swapping PCMs.
Cheaper and down time is roughly the same.
 

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I had @Rusty PW in mind when I made my statement. My old URS6 would peg the boost gauge. Each new mod got you back to that rush.
With the JT i feel like I am chasing a different rush. That pucker on a shelf road or getting tippy over an obstacle. Though I can tell you I really did enjoy being 4.88 on 35s and smoking a Miata.


A lot of my boosted friends started out at around 10 lbs of boost (450 to 500 hp) and worked their way up to the point where they started to lift the heads at 29 lbs of boost(1000+hp). All chasing that rush. I stopped at 700HP.
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