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ShadowsPapa

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My buddy in Ottawa had his stolen a month or so ago from his driveway. He also has Guardian and they were zero help. Either the thieves are pulling the fuse that controls the communications hub (Guardian relies on a cell signal) or they are using signal jammers - or both.
The problem with tracking devices, even the Apple devices, is that they are so EASILY jammed! I can quite easily block bluetooth signals.
And although it's not legal to block GPS, etc. - that's not hard, either.

You can use your phone, routers or even dedicated devices to block bluetooth signals - all you have to do is emit an identical signal. There's "how to" out on the web along with devices for sale.

very sorry to hear this. That sucks. Makes ya think about installing a tracker in the vehicles.
A good thief can block such devices. GPS and certain other signals are illegal to block in the USA - but if someone is stealing a 50-60K vehicle, would anything even think that the thief is about to consider that their blocking of signals isn't legal?
Heck, when my truck is in front of my shop it can't contact GPS or satellite radio. Apparently that big steel building and being low and in a wooded area has some sort of impact on the signals. I keep getting "acquiring signal" for anything I try to do down there.

A tracker using GPS like Hootbro posted about is your best bet, unless they are organized and professional thieves, and then they likely know how and are equipped to block such things.
Granted, that's going to be the upper tier of bad guys so that sort of thing is still very worth doing, IMO. I'd still do it if I felt at risk. But - the OBD ports on these are very visible, and anyone who knows squat about those ports knows there should be a single thin cable going to the port and will question anything that isn't a single dead end cable with a few thin wires stopping at a connector in a bracket.
I knew mine had a device installed by the dealer simply because I know how many wires should be there and how thin OBD cables are so it was easy to spot. The cables sold on the web to allow installing other devices piggy-back style are, IMO, a dead give-away. Thick and you can see the double-back of the cable.
Take a look - you should have a single thin cable going to that port. There aren't that many wires going there and they are small gauge wires.
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Minty JL

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You still have USAA? I had them but switched to liberty. In ny USAA was getting outrageous.
At the moment........their customer service is gone downhill fast; like their banking.
 

JeepCode4

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Sorry to hear about the theft OP. It’s unfortunate that after you work hard, some asshole comes and it’s gone.

would highly recommend a Ravelco on your next ride, hopefully insurance takes care of you.

Most stolen vechicles go to Ghana in Africa and are on a container within 1-2hrs of theft. There’s a website where many people sell them https://jiji.ng/, thats like the Craigslist of Africa. Look at this one. Still has the Cali tags on it. https://jiji.ng/oredo/cars/toyota-h...nt=79431&lid=kH5K1__09RCFsFku&indexPosition=1

I will point out though that the passive locking disable is a waste of time. Modern key fobs communicate with the vechicle all the time, it’s what makes the system work so I understand the disable of the passive system logic but it’s bypassed.

more than likely the thief used the key lock to get in (easy) or broke a rear window to slide in. They then connect to the security gateway and program their own key using an illegal to own locksmith tablet. The problem is these locksmith tools have become easier to get illegally. And off they go.

I had a truck stolen, and used to be a LE officer so I’ve seen this a lot. The charger, challenger, ram TRX owners speak about the same, and Stellantis has patched the key creation issue on charger and challengers with the hemi motors, but not other vechicles. The patch locks out the RFH or the Rf module that controls keys and their rolling codes. Essentially a thief would follow their process but would be unable to program their own key and that’s it.

that said theirs still RF Fob repeating, where if you hang your keys by the door say, a thief goes to your door with the repeater box, another thief pulls your door handle and it opens. This allows the car to start also since it’s your key fob just extended.

Another way which a few folks have said, cloning keys will not start the car. You can enter doors but the ignition system will not start it, the hex codes differ.

so that said IGLA is popular, it’s a anti theft system like compustar but locks out key programming and some other stuff. Not a lot of installers. Or Ravelco, which has never been defeated, highly secure and low tech. Pretty cheap And there’s a lot of installers. I have it on all my cars and the installer travels the east coast to do it at your home. I’d also suggest a secondary GPS module. The built in antenna is usually disconnected right after the thief enters it, so that’s pretty useless if they’re pros, but a secondary module somewhere in the car, would give you a location. Remember, time is their enemy. If it’s not the way they planned (like I’ve described) your car will remain safe. Dont forget also, to install locking hood latches.

thefts have gone down a lot as value has after the crazy appreciation surge, but still a problem.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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I will point out though that the passive locking disable is a waste of time. Modern key fobs communicate with the vechicle all the time, it’s what makes the system work so I understand the disable of the passive system logic but it’s bypassed.
That's been my thing in this thread and others. Many keep repeating that "Advice" but not a single person has proven how it would work. If it would work, someone could prove and demonstrate how it works. But they can't, because it doesn't matter.

I feel passive entry is a security thing for a woman alone in a parking lot with a vehicle. No fumbling for a key - you have the fob, you open the door and get in. Too many people reach into pockets, or purses or drop a key or whatever, when stressed or in a hurry. Passive entry means the woman can get in fast and lock the vehicle if there's a perceived threat, etc.
I insist my wife has her own Jeep set so that it only unlocks the driver's door, NOT any other door. Otherwise when the driver's door is open a person lurking or hiding on the other side simply jumps in with her.............

Yep. Apple devices can actually disable them tho. Thief never has to find it. Just detect and disable.

Anti stalking is > than anti theft I guess.
That's a DUH - a given! The safety/security/well-being of a woman or child trump anything to do with any car or truck. It's that simple in my mind.
Steal my truck that's one thing - mess with my wife or kids, and find out what anger really is - and I would not give a damn what might happen to me in the end.
 

JeepCode4

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That's been my thing in this thread and others. Many keep repeating that "Advice" but not a single person has proven how it would work. If it would work, someone could prove and demonstrate how it works. But they can't, because it doesn't matter.

I feel passive entry is a security thing for a woman alone in a parking lot with a vehicle. No fumbling for a key - you have the fob, you open the door and get in. Too many people reach into pockets, or purses or drop a key or whatever, when stressed or in a hurry. Passive entry means the woman can get in fast and lock the vehicle if there's a perceived threat, etc.
I insist my wife has her own Jeep set so that it only unlocks the driver's door, NOT any other door. Otherwise when the driver's door is open a person lurking or hiding on the other side simply jumps in with her.............



That's a DUH - a given! The safety/security/well-being of a woman or child trump anything to do with any car or truck. It's that simple in my mind.
Steal my truck that's one thing - mess with my wife or kids, and find out what anger really is - and I would not give a damn what might happen to me in the end.
It doesnt matter, you're correct. Its stupid. The Tazer PIN code out is a nice feature, but since its live, and requires a connection to the vehicle, its worthless. These guys just rip shit out. I've seen things like CarLock get recommended, same type of tool plugs into OBD, and yes you can run extensions etc, but they cut and rip it out in a second, and all you'll have is a $60 notification on your phone that it detected motion/movement. Spend the $600 or so bucks and just get a ravelco. You then have time to come out and take care of the necessary justice against said thief.

Passive is convenient. Convenience comes with a removal of a certain amount of security. Drivers door only, i do the same. If your trying to make entry to your car, this is the safest way. Tell your wife tho, so she doesnt rip the door handle off as you get a second to unlock all the doors. as we know sometimes they like to do this.
 

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Old Young Man

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Gee, just take the doors off and put them back on a time or two. That'll fix it.

If they have a tazer, they can connect it and disable auto park, or even just buckle the seat belt.

Not sure why go to the bother to gut one of the aux switches and turn it into an independent switch, making it useless for real stuff would be easier than installing any type of switch, a microswitch, even somewhere unseen. You'd have to remove the aux switch bank, gut one of the switches since they are momentary switches, the latching controlled by the truck, not mechanically controlled in the switch. You'd all but destroy it converting it from momentary to latching independent of the others (not sure of the errors it could generate if one wasn't there)
The aux switches are momentary by nature. The truck is where the REAL switching is, not in that bank of switches in the center stack.
So rather than destroy an aux switch to replace the guts to make it a latching switch, why not install a microswitch no one could find? A lot easier than gutting an aux switch and putting other switch guts in it and still having to wire it by itself anyway.

I had wondered about using a USB port - convert one to be able to accept a gutted usb stick that simply completed a circuit to allow the truck to start or move.
Wouldn't need to be a key at all, use two of the contacts of a USB stick to complete a connection when inserted into a special USB slot. You could use the console USB port and if you needed the truck worked on, just leave the stick in that console port and it would start and operate normally.
 

FloridaMan655321

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I'm hoping that driving a manual is helping me, but I think I will now buy a faraday bag for my keyfob
 

ShadowsPapa

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Cool looking pedal, but I'm afraid someone like Stevie Wonder can disarm it lol
I'm looking at it because of the design, plus it could handle a switch for off-road lights, or lights showing the edge of rural roads easily killed with a foot.

But yeah, for a kill switch - you know what they say about a blind squirrel.
 

carmigo

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In the early hours of Jan 3, my much-loved 2022 JT Rubicon Diesel was stolen from my driveway here in Ottawa. It was locked and alarmed (factory) and all that, but the perps very likely had cloned my key fob. I had no idea that this was a thing that, now having read all about it, is extremely common. In fact, a neighbour two streets over had their new Wrangler Unlimited stolen on the very same night.

IMG_2879.jpeg


This was my best build yet, and because I had done it completely on my own, without any pro help, it was very personal. It was my fifth rig and I was getting it ready for a big overland trip this summer. I was very proud of it--Jeepers know how it feels when you put so much of your 'self' into your build.

The insurance adjuster is coming to my place today to go over my documentation and discuss the reimbursement they will offer. It'll be the lesser of:
  • Actual purchase price
  • Manufacturer's list price w/equipment at time of purchase
  • Price of a new similarly equipped replacement vehicle
Sadly it'll end up being the second one--prices were already above list when I got it back in February of 2022. And now, costs are way up, and interest rates are way higher. But that's not the worst of it; it is highly unlikely the thousands I put into it in mods will be covered.

So, here comes the cautionary part of the tale. Do this now if you have a keyless entry/push button start system on your Jeep and you want to KEEP your vehicle.
  1. Disable the keyless entry/proximity feature (in the vehicle settings on the infotainment system)
  2. Keep your key fobs in a Faraday box at home, away from doors and windows, and a Faraday pouch while in the vehicle or on your person walking about
  3. Get a kill-switch - if you go with a DIY or inexpensive one, you must hide that switch well; if you want peace of mind, get a Ghost II system (expensive, but I'll be doing it for my next one)
  4. Get a Club or other physical deterrent, like a brake pedal-to-steering wheel bar
The detective assigned to my case told me about 100 vehicles are stolen every single day in Ottawa; in a call he had had with the Insurance Bureau of Canada (or whatever they're called), they said in 2021 alone there were CAD $700M in vehicle thefts. These thieves are organized, and it's big business. They can get those key fob scanners on Amazon. Jeeps and other vehicles go straight to the Port of Montreal and end up overseas.

Don't be complacent like I was. Whatever the cost and inconvenience it may represent, it pales in comparison the pain of losing something you put your heart and soul into.

Chris
This is a horror story... i am so sorry this happened to you. I hope something can be done.
 

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Jerhemi

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Jeep theft is so bad in Ontario right now. I actually had a dream my truck was stolen the other night.
 

alpineovernappa

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Sorry to hear about your gladiator, OP. I live in a metropolitan area with frequent car theft and ordered my JT without the proximity sensor feature because of this. It doesn’t guarantee it won’t be stolen, but it does limit the options for access via a repeater. A cheap prevention measure to take is to keep your smart key fobs in a faraday box when at home. Good luck with the recovery
 

ShadowsPapa

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Disabling passive entry only means that can't simply grab the handle and get in.
They still have what they need to start it and drive away.
It doesn't stop a relay theft - only makes it slower for them.
Repeater or relay theft will still work just fine for starting and driving away - if they otherwise get in by picking the lock or busting a window. (easier with soft top)

Only sure cure for relay thefts is to shield the fob and/or not keep it where a thief can intercept the signal.

(You can buy the equipment for the relay thefts on the internet for something like $100 or so.)
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