Track bar bar geo bracket - FRONT

[chorky]

So everybody knows about rear track bar brackets. Several companies have them. Several companies have front control arm brackets and teraflex has rear control arm brackets. But nobody seems to discuss the front track bar unless it pertains to an adjustable unit

Recently I found teraflex offere(ed)
one for the front, cant find it anymore.

synergy and steer smarts does offer one here

In the description it states they must be used with a top mounted drag link - which requires minor drilling of the steering knuckle, but also requires an adjustable drag link In order to flip the joint around.

This, to me, seems to defeat the entire purpose of having geo correction brackets in the first place - to not require the need for adjustable components.

So I am wondering if anyone here can provide any more information. And a secondary question might be what adjustable track bar option out there would be the closest to the factory track bar joints. i do NOT want jonny joints or anything noisy for max articulation

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[JT1]

Metalcloak, Clayton, RK, Teraflex, Rancho etc all have nice trackbars. I have a Clayton on mine, both ends are "rubber" bushings. The metalcloak is too.

Flipping your draglink and track bar relocation aren't something you want to do at 2 or 3 inches of lift, it SEVERELY restricts up travel.

 

[chorky]

I was trying to avoid needing to replace the factory track bar since its not even a year old. Was considering teraflex track bar bracket but it doesnt appear to be sold on its own anymore.

Specific specific kind of rubber is the bushing on your track bar?

 

[JT1]

I was trying to avoid needing to replace the factory track bar since its not even a year old. Was considering teraflex track bar bracket but it doesnt appear to be sold on its own anymore.

Specific specific kind of rubber is the bushing on your track bar?

You want to replace your factory track bar. And the draglink and the tierod. They are barely up to the task on a stock jeep.

No clue what the bushing is, it's fairly soft like rubber, but could be anything. It's been on for almost 2 years and is still perfectly quiet.

 

[chorky]

You want to replace your factory track bar. And the draglink and the tierod. They are barely up to the task on a stock jeep.

No clue what the bushing is, it's fairly soft like rubber, but could be anything. It's been on for almost 2 years and is still perfectly quiet.

why do you say that? The stock components here are beefier than the stock components on my old F350 so I dont see the concern?

I’m really not interested in replacing that many components and spending 5K on a lift. Would rather just do a spacer lift if that be the case. thats nice to know yours is still quiet though. Are you in an area with winter road salt?

 

[JT1]

why do you say that? The stock components here are beefier than the stock components on my old F350 so I dont see the concern?

I’m really not interested in replacing that many components and spending 5K on a lift. Would rather just do a spacer lift if that be the case. thats nice to know yours is still quiet though. Are you in an area with winter road salt?

They look beefier than they are. The aftermarket ones are a huge improvement.

If you are just doing a spacer lift, don't worry about the trackbar. 2" or under and the axle won't be too far off center.

For cheaps, buy a 2" front and 3/4" rear spacer. Buy a set of Bilstein 5100s and buy the Mopar extended LCAs and be done. It'll look and drive better than stock, and then you can replace things as the wear out.

 

[chorky]

They look beefier than they are. The aftermarket ones are a huge improvement.

If you are just doing a spacer lift, don't worry about the trackbar. 2" or under and the axle won't be too far off center.

For cheaps, buy a 2" front and 3/4" rear spacer. Buy a set of Bilstein 5100s and buy the Mopar extended LCAs and be done. It'll look and drive better than stock, and then you can replace things as the wear out.

Not doing a spacer. I need heavier springs and want better quality shocks. Pretty much decided on AEV but I know the front needs something for the axle to be aligned properly. And also trying to get good info about the rear control arm brackets teraflex offers.

I dont have anything against adjustable components. I just would like to try and stay away from that this time if possible. I do have a nice rock jock lift on the TJ but that capability is excessive for what I will do 90% of the time.

 

[JT1]

Not doing a spacer. I need heavier springs and want better quality shocks. Pretty much decided on AEV but I know the front needs something for the axle to be aligned properly. And also trying to get good info about the rear control arm brackets teraflex offers.

I dont have anything against adjustable components. I just would like to try and stay away from that this time if possible. I do have a nice rock jock lift on the TJ but that capability is excessive for what I will do 90% of the time.

I'm not a huge fan of the AEV kits.. they aren't complete (no trackbars, they force feed you a crappy programmer) and they are expensive for what you get. The Clayton Ride-Right or metalcloak's true dual rate (minus the rocksports) are more complete, but it really depends on what you want out of one

I don't see any need for rear control arm brackets on the Gladiator. Put a carrier bearing spacer on there, and make sure your rear driveshaft angle is decent and be done with it.

 

[Camaroboi13]

You want to replace your factory track bar. And the draglink and the tierod. They are barely up to the task on a stock jeep.

Yeah that’s a negative. Absolutely nothing wrong with the factory components. Are there bigger ones out there? Sure, they exist, but they are by no means necessary. Your “up to task” is likely very different than everyone else’s.

 

[JT1]

Yeah that’s a negative. Absolutely nothing wrong with the factory components. Are there bigger ones out there? Sure, they exist, but they are by no means necessary. Your “up to task” is likely very different than everyone else’s.

You mean like actually wheeling this bus?

Tons of us have had early mortality of factory TREs with 33" tires. My JK got wheeled a lot harder than this gladiator does, and at 60K miles, the tierod and draglink were in better shape and had less slop than my gladiator did from the factory.

 

[Camaroboi13]

You mean like actually wheeling this bus?

Tons of us have had early mortality of factory TREs with 33" tires. My JK got wheeled a lot harder than this gladiator does, and at 60K miles, the tierod and draglink were in better shape and had less slop than my gladiator did from the factory.

Cool. I’ll report back in a few thousand miles when mine is doing just fine. Just because you had an experience doesn’t mean everyone else will have the same.

Lots of people have allegedly had early mortality rates, but how many have not? “Tons of us” might only be 1% of the population that wheels their bus.

 

[JT1]

Cool. I’ll report back in a few thousand miles when mine is doing just fine. Just because you had an experience doesn’t mean everyone else will have the same.

Lots of people have allegedly had early mortality rates, but how many have not? “Tons of us” might only be 1% of the population that wheels their bus.

Enjoy your commute on the 101. And I'm glad they work for your use case. They don't for mine or a lot of other peoples. That might also be the reason there are more death wobble reports on JLs and JTs with extremely low miles. The factory stabilizer that has been redesigned 4 or 5 times now isn't up to the task of damping the sloppy out of the factory front end bits.

But fine for you means its good for everyone.

 

[Camaroboi13]

Enjoy your commute on the 101. And I'm glad they work for your use case. They don't for mine or a lot of other peoples. That might also be the reason there are more death wobble reports on JLs and JTs with extremely low miles. The factory stabilizer that has been redesigned 4 or 5 times now isn't up to the task of damping the sloppy out of the factory front end bits.

But fine for you means its good for everyone.

A properly set up front end will not require a stabilizer at all.

I’m not even sure where the 101 is to be honest, heard of it but never been there.

 

[chorky]

From conversations with teraflex their rear geo brackets design idea is to help keep pinion angles low when the axle is fully drooped. But I cant seem to find much real world experience with this to see if the function meets the design idea. Not necessary at all but if it increases ride comfort I would be interested

 

[JT1]

A properly set up front end will not require a stabilizer at all.

I’m not even sure where the 101 is to be honest, heard of it but never been there.

You are right that a properly setup front end shouldn't require a stabilizer.
Isn't it odd that Jeep just replaces them willy nilly when you say front end vibration or death wobble.

Like I said, the drag link, tie rod and track bar aren't up to the task of locating the front axle on these things, straight from the factory.

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