Does anyone make a press in/ out no-drill top -mount factory drag link ball joint?

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Seems like there should be a market for them but me no see them.

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[kevman65]

You have to either A.) Buy a new drag link bar with ends from MOPAR.

Or B.) Find someone that has removed their factory drag link bar for something bigger and get the end you need.

Or C.) Upgrade your factory drag link bar to something stouter that you can get replacement ends for.

I'd offer you my end pieces, but had to cut the boots to remove the bar. Passenger side was stuck to knuckle and driver I couldn't get the allen wrench in the stud for back up, so slice and vise grips.

 

[kevman65]

Well now, this is interesting.

Just looked at @AllMoparParts.com and the numbers are no longer grayed out.
So you can get the driver side end piece alone, or you can get the bar with the passenger side end piece alone.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Pretty sure the factory passenger side drag link end is not a no-drill flip.

 

[kevman65]

You said factory, that means factory drag link parts.
No, no one makes a replacement ball joint for the factory drag link.

You also didn't mention flip until just now.

 

[kevman65]

It has to be drilled for a flip. The taper is wrong in the knuckle to go in from the top.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

You also didn't mention flip until just now.

So "top mount" means something different to you than "flip?"

It has to be drilled for a flip.

Not if you have a "no drill" drag link flip kit like the one steer smarts makes.
You know, like the question I was asking.

You said factory, that means factory drag link parts.

Or it could mean works with factory parts.

Why so contrary?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You said factory, that means factory drag link parts.
No, no one makes a replacement ball joint for the factory drag link.

Or it could mean works with factory parts.

Why so contrary?

No, factory means factory. Not works with because all aftermarket stuff can be considered to work with factory.

If you want an end to go into the factory drag link it would be a "replacement end" not a factory end because factory means that it come from Jeep or the supplier of the part TO Jeep.

Been in the auto and parts business a long time and kevman is using correct terminology.

It has to be drilled for a flip. The taper is wrong in the knuckle to go in from the top.

Yeah, and I'd not trust anything else. That taper is the strength of that joint. Anything less is weaker.
Just because someone makes something doesn't make it right or strong or good.
A correctly made tapered joint is crazy strong and won't come loose. Tapers hold propellers onto some boat shafts, tapers hold axles and hubs together on hundreds of thousands of cars.

If a joint has a taper and you "flip" it around, then you must us an adapter going in from the bottom to take up the taper and make it a straight through hole. this necessitates the stud on the link's joint to be smaller than stock, and not as strong. You can't do it without weakening that joint.
The "Stem" on their drag link ends look awfully small to me compared to the tapered end on the factory part.

 

[rharr]

if you want a top mount link you need to drill your oem knuckle out to 1/2" or 5/8" and then use a hemi joint style link and a big bolt to hold everything together. Maybe reed racing makes a knuckle with a top mount style taper on the knuckle to run a tapered tie rod end.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Taper joint is stronger - spreads stress over much larger area of the steering knuckle - it's less likely to come apart if the tapers are correct angle and match correctly.

(I likely have more in my college texts and test papers)

 

[rharr]

Taper joint is stronger - spreads stress over much larger area of the steering knuckle - it's less likely to come apart if the tapers are correct angle and match correctly.

(I likely have more in my college texts and test papers)

Yes not debating the fact the taper is a better solution, just highlighting that jeepers for years have used straight holes with big grade 8 5/8" bolts and hemi joints to do flips for years.

And yes those straight holes will get slop over time and red loctite is general used on the bolts.

A knuckle with a top mount taper would be better.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yes not debating the fact the taper is a better solution, just highlighting that jeepers for years have used straight holes with big grade 8 5/8" bolts and hemi joints to do flips for years.

And yes those straight holes will get slop over time and red loctite is general used on the bolts.

A knuckle with a top mount taper would be better.

I didn't quote you as it was more aimed at the OP - so didn't make that clear, I guess.
I've seen your stuff over time and have no doubt you keep certain things in mind when doing major mods.

And yes those straight holes will get slop over time and red loctite is general used on the bolts.

Yeah, they depend on the clamping force which isn't all that great an area to clamp on, so would come loose over time with heavy stresses off road.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

No, factory means factory. Not works with because all aftermarket stuff can be considered to work with factory.

God the fkn pedants are thick in here.

You could've easily inferred the intention of the op which, though the intention was clear, could've been better worded, but then that wouldn't entitle you to your little rant, would it?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

"inferring" or "Assuming" can also lead to trouble.
It's like when some asked for ball joints - and they REALLY meant tie rod ends. The part store is going to come out and sell you ball joints and on a forum, people will answer back about ball joints.
Sorry, my training and OCD means things in order and terminology to mean a specific part. Can't help I was born with the same things Howie struggles with.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

No, please... Keep going...

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