Dont know, but I sure think I know that bridge you are crossing. Its printed on your hood! Been a long time and we crossed it many times. Probably a lot of forest bridges look the same but the picture brought back a lot of memories that started 40 plus years ago.Does anyone know the gauge wire used in this wire?
It was an amazing trip.Dont know, but I sure think I know that bridge you are crossing. Its printed on your hood! Been a long time and we crossed it many times. Probably a lot of forest bridges look the same but the picture brought back a lot of memories that started 40 plus years ago.
Yes, and that was my original plan. But the dealer near me is filled with dunces. After waiting at the parts counter for 25 minutes, he came back and asked me if I was sure I didn’t want the sensor? And then he told me the wire was 4” long. It’s typical for this dealer. They’re pretty rough. I bought some 18 in black and white. I’m going to use solder connectors, and full length heat shrink, and maybe corrugated loom. I’m going to match the new length of the rear brake lines.Making it longer and looking to splice it? How about buying one cable from dealer cut it in half and then use each end to add onto your existing ones, would make for only one splice in each cable….Jack
.035 so 18 awg is good.I’m guessing 18awg, but it’s just a guess.
Thanks very much. I’m waiting on some Amazon deliveries on Tuesday, but will do this then. I’m not even going to remove them. I’m just adding the length I need to match the brake lines as perfectly as possible. That way I can tie them together for articulation movement, just like stock..035 so 18 awg is good.
I figured. I saw extension harnesses but you would have a bulky connector right where you wouldn't want it. I would do the same thing, cheap and clean.Thanks very much. I’m waiting on some Amazon deliveries on Tuesday, but will do this then. I’m not even going to remove them. I’m just adding the length I need to match the brake lines as perfectly as possible. That way I can tie them together for articulation movement, just like stock.
I agree. I plan to use the solder heat shrink connectors, then heat shrink. I’ll heat shrink the wires between the connectors as well to strengthen them into one insulated unit. I’ll then evaluate whether I also want corrugated loom.I figured. I saw extension harnesses but you would have a bulky connector right where you wouldn't want it. I would do the same thing, cheap and clean.
Success. I got the driver rear extended to match the extended brake line length. It didn’t work on attempt one yesterday afternoon, so I must have had one bad connection. I redid it just now and it worked great. Now for a test drive, but there are no longer any abs warnings like there were after attempt one. Then I’ll do the passenger side. The Oem wires were 20-22 gauge. I did use 18 for the roughly 6” extension and it worked fine. The section of 18awg between the connections is strengthened by 1/8” heat shrink. Then the connections themselves are covered with 1/4” shrink tube, which overlaps the 1/8”. Then I covered it all with 1/2” corrugated loom.I agree. I plan to use the solder heat shrink connectors, then heat shrink. I’ll heat shrink the wires between the connectors as well to strengthen them into one insulated unit. I’ll then evaluate whether I also want corrugated loom.
Thanks very much. Wait to congratulate me though until passenger is working. Since I’ve cut it and have done one side of the splice. It’s tough since you can’t continuity test these on the magnet sensor end. I can test the first splice to the connector, but then I better get it right. And mopar is on extended back order for rear abs sensors.Nice work Dan, I think a lot of people don’t take the effort to do good electrical work and are then upset when there are issues….Jack??
Wish me luck on this one. Final connection before heat shrink.Nice work Dan, I think a lot of people don’t take the effort to do good electrical work and are then upset when there are issues….Jack??