Brake upgrade options?

[AmishMike]

2020 Rubicon going on 70k miles. Time for brakes. Some off roading, towing etc. what are you all upgrading to?
Pads and rotors are a given, calipers are an option. Been a racer for years so I get the ups and downs of drilled rotors at speed but towing? Even highway speeds, do they really help, or is the slight loss of surface area make it a wash? What about slow speed off road? Mud and debris etc.?

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[ShadowsPapa]

2020 Rubicon going on 70k miles. Time for brakes. Some off roading, towing etc. what are you all upgrading to?
Pads and rotors are a given, calipers are an option. Been a racer for years so I get the ups and downs of drilled rotors at speed but towing? Even highway speeds, do they really help, or is the slight loss of surface area make it a wash? What about slow speed off road? Mud and debris etc.?

If you tow a rig with brakes, the brakes on the trailer should handle the braking for it. So there's really no need for towing purposes. (mountains may matter there, although I've hauled 6,000+ through the mountains around PA a decade ago and didn't have brake troubles or feel the need to have better truck brakes.)

But with larger tires (especially diameter), heavier tires, off-roading, different animal.

 

[Camaroboi13]

I’m not a fan of drilled slotted rotors on vehicles that travel through the mud. You get those things caked up with dirt and you’ll end up squeaking and tearing up pads prematurely. If the factory pads and rotors lasted 70k miles with some towing, that’s what I would recommend replacing them with.

 

[Rusty PW]

Drilled rotors are for people who don't know any better. They like to crack beginning at the holes. There is no benefit to them. On my Grand Cherokee and Power Wagon. I used EBC Yellowstuff pads and their sport rotors.

 

[AmishMike]

@Rusty PW I agree, like I said, in racing with speed the venting makes sense. Also, they get inspected after every race/run etc.. I see they make a 'Red' option, any reason not to go for them?
@ShadowsPapa The trailer brakes should take care of the trailer, but I am a belt and suspenders kind of person.
@Camaroboi13 Yes, the factory brakes were okay, but just okay crawling. Even with manually downshifting the automatic they would begin to fade on some descents. I figure now would be the time to upgrade since I will do them all at the same time.

(Stock Rubicon with LT285/75R17 10ply rating for daily and towing, 315/70R17 Nitto Trail Grappler M/T's when off road. So 34" daily and 35"ish off road.)

 

[Rdkng07]

The trailer brakes should take care of the trailer, but I am a belt and suspenders kind of person.

It looks as though PA is the same as MI, anything over 3000 lbs requires trailer brakes. Not much of a problem here, but I don't think I would like a 2995 lb trailer pushing my 6000 lb truck with stock brakes down a mountain, at least on a regular basis.

If I lived in the mountains, I would replace with something like the Teraflex Delta Brake System. Expensive, but so is an accident because the tow vehicle lost effective braking. While maybe not the best solution, or one still somewhat prone to failure, It would be worth the investment to me.

Regardless of anyone else's anecdotal experiences, do what's comfortable for you regarding safety, peace of mind, and legal reasons.

 

[Rusty PW]

@Rusty PW I agree, like I said, in racing with speed the venting makes sense. Also, they get inspected after every race/run etc.. I see they make a 'Red' option, any reason not to go for them?
@ShadowsPapa The trailer brakes should take care of the trailer, but I am a belt and suspenders kind of person.
@Camaroboi13 Yes, the factory brakes were okay, but just okay crawling. Even with manually downshifting the automatic they would begin to fade on some descents. I figure now would be the time to upgrade since I will do them all at the same time.

(Stock Rubicon with LT285/75R17 10ply rating for daily and towing, 315/70R17 Nitto Trail Grappler M/T's when off road. So 34" daily and 35"ish off road.)

I've never used the Red pads. So I can't tell you anything about them.

On my Nismo. I have RacingBrake 2 piece rotors with grooves. That's over $2000 for 4 rotors. Using Carbotech X12 front pads and X10 rear pads. I can put your eyeballs in the windshield.

 

[AmishMike]

@Rdkng07 looks like that kit is $2500. Not really hateful for what you get. I have looked a big brake sets, but again have no idea which one to go with. Would be a good time to flush the brake fluid.
But, do I need that much more?

 

[Rdkng07]

But, do I need that much more?

It's personal preference. I don't need more where I live, but it's flat here and I have an F150 for hauling loads when needed. But if I were playing in the mountains somewhere towing a decent load without trailer brakes, I would probably want it, but that's very situational.

 

[RoamingGladiator]

Slotted rotors? Yes.
Drilled? No.

I've made the mistake of running drilled rotors on one of my offroad rigs and the squeaking drove me nuts within a week. I tore them off and replaced them. Pretty much all my Jeeps I've run the Powerstop brake kits and they have been great, can't recommend them enough. If you need a big boy upgrade for JTs... go with the Teraflex Delta BBKs. It's an insane difference on braking, but hits the wallet a little bit. It's really the best upgrade you can do for braking on a JT within reason.

 

[willys 41]

It looks as though PA is the same as MI, anything over 3000 lbs requires trailer brakes. Not much of a problem here, but I don't think I would like a 2995 lb trailer pushing my 6000 lb truck with stock brakes down a mountain, at least on a regular basis.

If I lived in the mountains, I would replace with something like the Teraflex Delta Brake System. Expensive, but so is an accident because the tow vehicle lost effective braking. While maybe not the best solution, or one still somewhat prone to failure, It would be worth the investment to me.

Regardless of anyone else's anecdotal experiences, do what's comfortable for you regarding safety, peace of mind, and legal reasons.

I agree.
I have 37in tires and at 6400lbs with my with my normal gear and two people in my jeep.
I tried several brake option including the Baer SS4 and power stop Z36 pads with pore results.
After installing the Teraflex Delta Brake System my jeep will stop on a dime no mater what circumstances I may be in.
There are two important features with the delta brakes.
1. They incorporate anti knock back springs behind each caliper piston giving you that superior right at the top firm brake pedal.
2. They use Toyota Tundra brake pads giving you 100s of option on brand or material brake pads.
Don't do what I did and spend $100s on other brake systems. Do it one and be done.

 

[AmishMike]

@willys 41 Thank you for your information! I like real world experience. Also knowing that they use Tundra pads is comforting with traveling.
Now to find a deal......

 

[Minty JL]

Some fresh OEM rotors, fresh DOT3, set of SS braided lines and a set of EBC YellowStuff pads and done.

I have a six pack of beer saying this will be a night and day difference for you.

 

[AmishMike]

@Minty JL I do keep coming back to that.
Thank you for your service! If you are ever in the Carlisle area, the beer is on me.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Some fresh OEM rotors, fresh DOT3, set of SS braided lines and a set of EBC YellowStuff pads and done.

I have a six pack of beer saying this will be a night and day difference for you.

Pads matter. OEM pads are a compromise - they do fine and on the JT, IMO, for my use, even better than expected, but...........pads are where the CoF is made or not.

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