What Coils & Mods to go with Ohlins shocks?

[CrazyCooter]

Where would you even find a 295lb rear spring for a JT? Dump truck hard, socks wouldn't matter. From all the oem and aftermarket springs I've seen specs on if say you're only talking maybe a ~40lb difference in spring rates. I'd imagine an adjustable shock would allow enough range to work well with virtually any of them, but they do state they are tuneable so even if you were on the extreme end of weight or spring rate you should be able to get them valued appropriately. If you're running $3k plus in shocks you should have the budget to drop a few hundred dollars on a re-valve? Or if you know you're in those extreme cases you could just order fox 2.5 elites from Accutune after giving them your particular weights and needs/ use case?

Those numbers I threw out there were just a hypothetical numbers......

That said, Clayton has 2 spring rates that are in that range or exceeding it? I run the HD in the rear of my truck that is unloaded most of the time, but does carry heavy loads at times. The ride isn't rough in my opinion, but it has taken a shock properly tuned to get that ride. The Clayton HD rates are #1-188lb, #2-308lb #3-396

If you really think about the logistics of ride quality.....A heavier spring generally requires less compression damping because it compresses harder than a lighter spring would. Same in the opposite direction goes for rebound damping. Heavier spring requires more rebound damping because the energy released after the spring gets compressed is much higher than a lighter spring.

For example: Pair a heavy spring with a shock valved for a light spring and you will probably experience a rough ride because the chassis will rise too much during(too much compression)/(too little rebound)after a bump amplifying the bump to the person without a trained ass. Pair a light spring with a shock damped for the heavy spring and the suspension will possibly both bottom out (not enough copmpression)/ pack (too much rebound) also giving a seemingly rough ride to an untrained ass. Then add in the use of multi-stage flutter stacks to get the road manners, control, and comfort that a person finds desirable........This is where putting in the time really shines.

It has taken me years to train my "ass" to feel what the chassis is doing in my 4 mile roadtest over the same road conditions so that I can get it at least 85% right first shot.......Fine tuning after operating on all the other conditions like Rock, sand, towing, I have probably 20,000 roadtests in different vehicles/combinations on this same section of road.

I can tell you without question after roadtesting, opening, and fixing shocks that have been "Accutuned" that "Overlanding" (Overloading) is not what they tune for. I have a set of Fox 2.5's in the shop (One leaked) for a JK where the guy has heavy loading in mind.....The supplied spring rates and valving will be a train wreck looking for a place to happen. I'll give them back to the client and let him try it for himself so that he can apprieciate the difference after we get done.

You need to choose a tuner who specializes in the manner that you operate your vehilce. No way I would tune for someone who is racing in the desert becuse that's not my passion. I tune for those using their vehicles in the outdoors for camping and hauling loads to do that.

For most people, they honestly don't know what good is........ Being in the business, I get to drive almost all vehicles and compair. Then I get to tune them to perfection.

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[Zachanadandy]

Those numbers I threw out there were just a hypothetical numbers......

That said, Clayton has 2 spring rates that are in that range or exceeding it? I run the HD in the rear of my truck that is unloaded most of the time, but does carry heavy loads at times. The ride isn't rough in my opinion, but it has taken a shock properly tuned to get that ride. The Clayton HD rates are #1-188lb, #2-308lb #3-396

If you really think about the logistics of ride quality.....A heavier spring generally requires less compression damping because it compresses harder than a lighter spring would. Same in the opposite direction goes for rebound damping. Heavier spring requires more rebound damping because the energy stored after the spring gets compressed is much higher than a lighter spring.

For example: Pair a heavy spring with a shock valved for a light spring and you will probably experience a rough ride because the chassis will lift after a bump amplifying the bump to the person without a trained ass. Pair a light spring with a shock damped for the heavy spring and the suspension will pack giving a seemingly rough ride to an untrained ass. Then add in the use of multi-stage flutter stacks to get the road manners, control, and comfort that a person finds desirable........This is where putting in the time really shines.

It has taken me years to train my "ass" to feel what the chassis is doing in my 4 mile roadtest over the same road conditions so that I can get it at least 85% right first shot.......Fine tuning after operating on all the other conditions like Rock, sand, towing, I have probably 20,000 roadtests in different vehicles/combinations on this same section of road.

I can tell you without question after roadtesting, opening, and fixing shocks that have been "Accutuned" that "Overlanding" (Overloading) is not what they tune for. I have a set of Fox 2.5's in the shop (One leaked) for a JK where the guy has heavy loading in mind.....The supplied spring rates and valving will be a train wreck looking for a place to happen. I'll give them back to the client and let him try it for himself so that he can apprieciate the difference after we get done.

You need to choose a tuner who specializes in the manner that you operate your vehilce. No way I would tune for someone who is racing in the desert becuse that's not my passion. I tune for those using their vehicles in the outdoors for camping and hauling loads to do that.

I wasn't implying that any off the shelf shock would be nearly as good as a custom tuned one, more so that they will likely be tuned "good enough" for "average" use like every other off the shelf shock. The fact that they are adjustable for compression and rebound will put them ahead of most other off the shelf shocks. Custom tuned should outperform any off the shelf shock unless your tuner is terrible.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I wasn't implying that any off the shelf shock would be nearly as good as a custom tuned one, more so that they will likely be tuned "good enough" for "average" use like every other off the shelf shock. The fact that they are adjustable for compression and rebound will put them ahead of most other off the shelf shocks. Custom tuned should outperform any off the shelf shock unless your tuner is terrible.

You are right in that rebound adjustment is a huge plus, but doesn't do much good if there isn't enough adjustment. All of my motorcycles, ATV's and SXS's required custom tuning even though they have triple clicker adjustments because I was operating outside the range of adjustment........this is the situation for most people since the OE seldom gets it right out of the box. That is why there are so many tuners in the market right?

I just revalved my Husqvarna 701 a couple of weeks back because the both the rear rebound/high speed and front rebound clickers were maxed out but it still wanted to toss me over the bars? The internal valving needed tuning so that the clickers were more in the center allowing fine tuning either direction for loads and temperature changes.

 

[CrazyCooter]

This guy is a little on the dry side and seemed to abandon his video series before getting into the good engineering stuff, but these videos are a good watch even if they are over most peoples' heads.

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