ARE Cap Wiring Suggestions

[CheatyJeepy14]

So I just purchased an ARE CX Classic used from someone. Great decision to help with our overlanding trips and all the hunting I do.

I just need some suggestions for wiring the interior LED dome light and LED center light strip. I use a TAZR so I know I have the 3xUnlock button feature to keep the headlights on. I was hoping to tap into that wire so I can control it with the interior bedlight button and the unlock button feature. Not sure if it can handle the AMPs on the lights. Otherwise, I’m looking for other suggestions on where to tap into for the lights. There is a connector already established I will have to find a matching end to. I can always just strip it if I need to use something else.

Ask away if there are some details I am missing. See pictures for details. Thanks for help in advance!

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[rharr]

I would suggest just tapping into the constant wire of the hitch harness. Having the cap lights tied to the dome lights will get annoying. Either you are in the cab or the bed, not both. Just uses switches that are easy to access to control cap lights.

That is how I use my cap.

 

[CheatyJeepy14]

Thanks for the reply! So which switch do you use to control them? I’ve heard of tapping into the constant but not sure how it then allows you to control the light.

 

[rharr]

there should be a switch built into the hatch lite, little thing you flick up or down

 

[BennieD]

A dealer installed mine and ran a wire all the way to the battery and fused it

 

[CheatyJeepy14]

there should be a switch built into the hatch lite, little thing you flick up or down

Got it for the switch! Thanks for the feedback!

 

[CheatyJeepy14]

A dealer installed mine and ran a wire all the way to the battery and fused it

I’m considering running it that far but may safe myself the hassle of heading that far up the frame. Thanks for the feedback, though!

 

[rharr]

if you have the tow package you can just tap the live positive wire to 7 pin connector down by the tow bar. It is fused already has like a 20 amp capacity, keeps you from running long wire runs.

That was how my cap installer did it, the only complaint was they didn't use a rubber grommet for the hole in the bed and used a vampire connector.

I ended up redoing it all because i added a roof rack light that i wanted to control with a switch in the cap, but also wanted to power my hatch light.

 

[CheatyJeepy14]

if you have the tow package you can just tap the live positive wire to 7 pin connector down by the tow bar. It is fused already has like a 20 amp capacity, keeps you from running long wire runs.

That was how my cap installer did it, the only complaint was they didn't use a rubber grommet for the hole in the bed and used a vampire connector.

I ended up redoing it all because i added a roof rack light that i wanted to control with a switch in the cap, but also wanted to power my hatch light.

Any way you can possibly show me your wiring? I know which live positive on the hitch you are talking about. Just curious to see how you did it. I’d love to see where you are running it through on the bed.

I think I’m going to with use the 7 pin pos but I always love some inspiration.

 

[bd100]

There are also battery powered lights you can put in the cap. See an RV place or such. The only problem is sometimes you have to change the batteries.

 

[CheatyJeepy14]

There are also battery powered lights you can put in the cap. See an RV place or such. The only problem is sometimes you have to change the batteries.

Thanks for the suggestion on that, but I do think I want to run it off battery power. The lights are pretty small so even f left my in accident, I'm sure id be okay.

 

[jn2275]

On my Alucab I bought this connector, cut the 4 way wiring off, spliced into the constant 12 volt wire and ran that and the ground wire up to the bed cap for power. I ended up installing a 12 volt plug instead of hardwiring the lights for other potential uses in the future. Using this connector avoids cutting into the factory wiring and can be easily switched back to stock in the future.

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[CheatyJeepy14]

On my Alucab I bought this connector, cut the 4 way wiring off, spliced into the constant 12 volt wire and ran that and the ground wire up to the bed cap for power. I ended up installing a 12 volt plug instead of hardwiring the lights for other potential uses in the future. Using this connector avoids cutting into the factory wiring and can be easily switched back to stock in the future.

CURT 56584 Replacement Vehicle-Side Custom USCAR 5-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness , Black

Oh, wow, that's a great ide. so you basically have this connected into the tailgate plug if I'm understanding correct?and where did you run it through? Pictures will help give a good idea for sure.

 

[jn2275]

Oh, wow, that's a great ide. so you basically have this connected into the tailgate plug if I'm understanding correct?and where did you run it through? Pictures will help give a good idea for sure.

The connector I linked connects between the factory trailer wire harness and the back of the connector behind the rear bumper. Hindsight being 20/20 I would have used longer wires between the two connectors to be able to tuck the one side up further away from the spare tire.

I wrapped the wires going into the bed in a wire sleeve and ran the bundle inside along the rear bumper over to the passenger side and into the bed through the factory hole under the passenger side bed light. I also installed a rubber grommet into this hole to prevent chaffing.

As you can I have a bunch of extra wire coiled up because when I installed this I only "temporarily" secured the 12 volt receptacle with 3M double sided tape to the bed cap higher up. 7 months later I still haven't figured out where I want to permanently mount it yet.

 

[Blade1668]

I bought a "tap direct plug in" for my topper to wire in the "4th" brake light the was plug n play but not with turn signals. The same as jn2275 did no cutting factory wires or taps to form corrosion.

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