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Any former WJ owners want to compare to their JTs? (build quality, noise, handling, long-term ownership, etc.)

MrClortho

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I have had a CJ-7, a XJ, a WJ, a ZJ, a WK2, two JK's, and now a JT. For me, the JT is my favorite because of its utility and how it is setup from the factory with D44's and its towing ability. Number two would probably be the CJ (just because it was a CJ and I love them) or the WJ.

The WJ was probably the best quality of all of those rigs I had, and I beat the heck out of it. It did over a dozen mountain passes in Colorado, two Jeep Jamborees, and towed two different trailers a lot. I don't remember having hardly any trouble with it either.

The ZJ was a pile of crap and I'll never do that again unless I am content with burning money. The WK2 was nice but not well built and terrible to work on. The JK's were pretty good overall for what they were.

The JT is still my favorite though.
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Stormtroopin

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I had a beast of a WJ when I sold it for my Mojave, many reasons went into it mostly wanting something more reliable to go to Moab, texas and Oklahoma. Definitely go with the 8.4 and upgraded sound system as for the heating/cooling the JT has rear vents although small they work well. I’ve not regretted my decision but I do wish the JT had the WJ engine that v8 ho was tits.

Jeep Gladiator Any former WJ owners want to compare to their JTs?  (build quality, noise, handling, long-term ownership, etc.) 3F242666-E6E2-4C76-9FB0-5252961921D3


Jeep Gladiator Any former WJ owners want to compare to their JTs?  (build quality, noise, handling, long-term ownership, etc.) 79F62717-04DC-4CC9-B5E5-F51C81EF6668
 
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AustinLonghorn

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Put in an order today for a '24 JTM. Y'all didn't do a good enough job scaring me away from the JT, hah! If it all actually works out, I'll post a photo with the family Jeeps (WJ/TJ/MJ) before we decide which ones are going/staying.
 
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AustinLonghorn

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Figured it's been a few months and I'd update this thread for posterity with '24 JTM observations (around my decidedly boring, non-4x4 commuting-to-work/daycare use case).
  • Steering: the JT actually wanders quite a bit more than the WJ. I suppose this didn't shake out in my brief '23 Rubicon JT test drive.
  • In terms of cabin comfort, the JT was excellent on the trip back to Texas from Gupton in Tennessee. I've made a (similar) Tennesse Valley-Texas trip several times in the WJ and the JT is hands down better here. Road noise isn't a factor and the seats are excellent.
  • The manual transmission on the JT is all the money, as they say. It's not the best 6MT out there, it's not a sports car, the clutch is too light, etc., etc., but it is vastly more fun to drive than the WJ. Once the Pentastar winds up past 3K, it's more peppy than the (lighter) 4.0 WJ.
  • A/C: As other folks have said, it's plenty cool in the summer. The smaller cabin and decently-sized HVAC components made this a non-issue.
  • UConnect 5 + Alpine audio is fantastic; the JL/JT is probably one of the last new platforms you can buy from any auto manufacturer in 2024 with both "modern" amenities (wireless Android Auto) and physical buttons/controls.
  • Steering wheel column switchgear is better on the WJ; I think the equipment in the JT is "chintzy" as an intentional historical nod to the TJ?
  • Two Graco Extend2Fit child car seats fit great in the back of the JT; I think Chrysler did a great job with rear passenger room here. My '00 WJ is two years too old for LATCH/ISOFIX car seat anchors, so those are much appreciated in the JT, too.
  • 5' bed + the Mopar roll-up cover (82216373AB) from BAM are - for me - more functionally useful than the cargo space in the WJ (kids car seats mean you can't fold the load floor down in the WJ for anything).
TL;DR - really enjoying the JT!

Jeep Gladiator Any former WJ owners want to compare to their JTs?  (build quality, noise, handling, long-term ownership, etc.) tj-jt-w
 

seven30

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I can compare them back to back.

I have a 21 Mojave 6mt I drive between texas and colorado a lot. Just over 60K it lost ONE cam. All the high lift lobes on right bank were toast. Poor heat treat was what mechanic thought. Then at 70K got the oil on O2 sensor issue. Hmmmm.

Since I travel with three dogs and its a little cramped for us I recently got a 180K one owner 4.7HO WJ. Put brakes/shocks and did cam chain/lifters (preventative).

Heres some points Ive noticed:

The JT makes more power but you have to wring its neck at 8000ft.
The WJ on the other hand pulls nicely at half the rpm. I also really enjoy the lower tech WJ environment. Its refreshing.
The WJ has full time 4wd which is nice but JT only part time 4wd. Even the old XJ had full time.
The JT has a lot more clearance and of course its a truck. But, I can car camp in the WJ(although tight with the dogs). The JT bed is just a little short for that.
Oddly the WJ and JT mpg is nearly identical. Ive hit 22mpg on both, same route at 65-75.
The JT has the nice integrated aux switch option. No such thing for WJ.
The Mojave is seriously tough and eats bad trails in style. A lift and tires on WJ would be needed to even get near it.
I suspect the build quality on the old WJ was better than the Stelantis era products. I mean at 180K nothing needed to be fixed. Just maintenance chores.

So for high cleanance trail work or truck duties its the JT but highway travel or regular trails the WJ is in its element.
 

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seven30

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Figured it's been a few months and I'd update this thread for posterity with '24 JTM observations (around my decidedly boring, non-4x4 commuting-to-work/daycare use case).
  • Steering: the JT actually wanders quite a bit more than the WJ. I suppose this didn't shake out in my brief '23 Rubicon JT test drive.
  • In terms of cabin comfort, the JT was excellent on the trip back to Texas from Gupton in Tennessee. I've made a (similar) Tennesse Valley-Texas trip several times in the WJ and the JT is hands down better here. Road noise isn't a factor and the seats are excellent.
  • The manual transmission on the JT is all the money, as they say. It's not the best 6MT out there, it's not a sports car, the clutch is too light, etc., etc., but it is vastly more fun to drive than the WJ. Once the Pentastar winds up past 3K, it's more peppy than the (lighter) 4.0 WJ.
  • A/C: As other folks have said, it's plenty cool in the summer. The smaller cabin and decently-sized HVAC components made this a non-issue.
  • UConnect 5 + Alpine audio is fantastic; the JL/JT is probably one of the last new platforms you can buy from any auto manufacturer in 2024 with both "modern" amenities (wireless Android Auto) and physical buttons/controls.
  • Steering wheel column switchgear is better on the WJ; I think the equipment in the JT is "chintzy" as an intentional historical nod to the TJ?
  • Two Graco Extend2Fit child car seats fit great in the back of the JT; I think Chrysler did a great job with rear passenger room here. My '00 WJ is two years too old for LATCH/ISOFIX car seat anchors, so those are much appreciated in the JT, too.
  • 5' bed + the Mopar roll-up cover (82216373AB) from BAM are - for me - more functionally useful than the cargo space in the WJ (kids car seats mean you can't fold the load floor down in the WJ for anything).
TL;DR - really enjoying the JT!

tj-jt-wj.jpg
>>> Steering wheel column switchgear is better on the WJ <<< YES especially headlight control. How is it that the thread of a good design is so easily lost? Is it different just to be different?
 
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AustinLonghorn

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>>> Steering wheel column switchgear is better on the WJ <<< YES especially headlight control. How is it that the thread of a good design is so easily lost? Is it different just to be different?
Three theories:
  • A nod to the past: The JL/JT headlight switch is in the same location as the push-pull switch you'd find in an '84-'96 XJ or a TJ (or a CJ or pretty much any car from yesteryear).
  • Cost: It's somehow cheaper to omit the rotating headlight control switch from the turn signal stalk?
  • FCA: Probably just lining up the JL/JT with what they've already doing for ages in Fiats, Alfas, etc. GM, BMW like that location, too.
I'm pretending it's option #1, but it's probably option #3.
 

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I think these 2 vehicles are two different to compare. Ones a offroader toy that happens to be street legal, one a commuter SUV with a killer drivetrain for if you choose the path less traveled. SO, BOTH. Both is good.
 

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I traded in an '04 WJ Limited 4.7L HO Quadradrive (pretty much every option possible except the rock rails of the Overland and the navigation) for my Gladiator. I still consider it the perfect Jeep: V8 engine, four doors, and solid axles. Too bad the 4.7L engine doesn't last.
You traded in a 20 year old vehicle because the engine "doesn't last"? Sounds like it lasted pretty well to me? We put over 200k on the 4.7L in the 01 WJ. Nothing lasts forever.
 

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You traded in a 20 year old vehicle because the engine "doesn't last"? Sounds like it lasted pretty well to me? We put over 200k on the 4.7L in the 01 WJ. Nothing lasts forever.
4.7 V8 of the early 2000s were awesome. toyota's 2UZ, Chryslers 4.7 and i'm sure other brand has matching option. They were all pretty solid lightweight V8s.
 

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Zachanadandy

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Figured it's been a few months and I'd update this thread for posterity with '24 JTM observations (around my decidedly boring, non-4x4 commuting-to-work/daycare use case).
  • Steering: the JT actually wanders quite a bit more than the WJ. I suppose this didn't shake out in my brief '23 Rubicon JT test drive.

tj-jt-wj.jpg
What tire pressure do you run? If it's the 40psi the dealer likes to deliver them at I'd suggest trying 32psi. It really helps with the wander.
 
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AustinLonghorn

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What tire pressure do you run? If it's the 40psi the dealer likes to deliver them at I'd suggest trying 32psi. It really helps with the wander.
Yeah, I have 'em at ~38psi for my commuting use case. That's good to know, although I'll say that I've adapted to the wander :)
 

Zachanadandy

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Yeah, I have 'em at ~38psi for my commuting use case. That's good to know, although I'll say that I've adapted to the wander :)
More caster will help too. The slightly longer lower control arms for the Mopar lift are cheap and the Jeep will drive better for sure.
 
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AustinLonghorn

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Not sure about FCA/Stellantis build quality versus the DaimlerChrysler days of the two Jeeps in our family now? Other than some minor electrical issues (door locks, window motors, etc.), I'd say the interior of the WJ has held up extremely well.
Quoting myself. For my sample size of ONE, I'm going to state that - about one year into JT ownership - FCA build quality is slightly less then my DaimlerChrysler-produced products.

It's minor stuff, but a little sooner than I'd expected.

- Weird, intermittent clutch whine when downshifting into 3rd and 2nd.
- Intermittent engine hesitation (no obvious pattern vs. acceleration, decelation, steady speed, etc.).
- Newly noisy suspension (squeaking and what sounds like rubbing during slow speed manuevers).
- Washer pump no longer working. Still on the original 26 year old washer pump in the WJ :)

All ought to be covered under warranty, but finding a dealer that isn't booked weeks out for warranty diagnosis+repair is a hassle.
 

seven30

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Three theories:
  • A nod to the past: The JL/JT headlight switch is in the same location as the push-pull switch you'd find in an '84-'96 XJ or a TJ (or a CJ or pretty much any car from yesteryear).
  • Cost: It's somehow cheaper to omit the rotating headlight control switch from the turn signal stalk?
  • FCA: Probably just lining up the JL/JT with what they've already doing for ages in Fiats, Alfas, etc. GM, BMW like that location, too.
I'm pretending it's option #1, but it's probably option #3.
Its not the knob. Its the stalk. The WJ is pull for high. Pull again for low. Light pull to flash. My JT is push forward and pull backward. Horrible!

VW in 60s had the pull/pull toggle stalk. It was fantastic back then and imho still has not been improved on. There are a few other dumb things FCA did my biggest grip is the Manual 6spd ridiculous start button behavior. If you stall a manual you better made sure the clutch is fully depressed before trying to restart or your going to be punching the start button a bunch even after depressing the clutch.
Really the manual should have a rotary start switch and if held in start should crank if you push down clutch. As it is stalling can mean taking 10 seconds to restart if you mess up the first try.
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