EricStanley
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Currently running 38x13.5/22 on a 22x12 4.77" backspacing and -44 offset with a 4.5" Metalcloak lift, Fab 4 fenders, etc.
Considering 38x13.5/17 on 17x9, 4.5" backspacing, -12mm offset.
The goals as I see it are as follows:
-Reduce rotational weight (this is a daily driver in addition to its other obvious uses) - the above combo saves a little over 31lbs/corner - about 22% reduction.
-Increase sidewall height (but maintain overall height - though I'm a tad flexible on that) -
-keep current lateral placement as it relates to the inside lip of the wheel/tire
-improve look (very low priority here, but at a minimum try not to make it uglier)
I'm not overly concerned with where the outside of the tire lands in relation to the fender. It sticks out a lot now and I don't really care. I'm more concerned with not moving the inside lip/sidewall any more inboard than absolutely necesarry. I don't have great pictures to show this, but at full tuck the rears are VERY close to rubbing. Up front, there is full rubbing happening if I'm turned enough (hell, there's rubbing keeping it straight).
If I'm doing my napkin cad math right (and that's highly unlikely at this hour), I'm going to need to add 1.25" spacers to keep the inside tire wall at its current position... is that right... or close to right?
Considering 38x13.5/17 on 17x9, 4.5" backspacing, -12mm offset.
The goals as I see it are as follows:
-Reduce rotational weight (this is a daily driver in addition to its other obvious uses) - the above combo saves a little over 31lbs/corner - about 22% reduction.
-Increase sidewall height (but maintain overall height - though I'm a tad flexible on that) -
-keep current lateral placement as it relates to the inside lip of the wheel/tire
-improve look (very low priority here, but at a minimum try not to make it uglier)
I'm not overly concerned with where the outside of the tire lands in relation to the fender. It sticks out a lot now and I don't really care. I'm more concerned with not moving the inside lip/sidewall any more inboard than absolutely necesarry. I don't have great pictures to show this, but at full tuck the rears are VERY close to rubbing. Up front, there is full rubbing happening if I'm turned enough (hell, there's rubbing keeping it straight).
If I'm doing my napkin cad math right (and that's highly unlikely at this hour), I'm going to need to add 1.25" spacers to keep the inside tire wall at its current position... is that right... or close to right?
Sponsored