What are the cons to adding a rear locker?

[BjornF16]

Unless you’re planning on going off road over half the time, over boulders and deep ruts, why would you want anything over 33-35”? That will ruin any on road dynamics designed into all factory Jeeps.

I’m not interested in 37” tires. I’ll be sticking to 34-35” tires.

That said, I’m currently running 33” on oe 20” rims and already notice I don’t hit 8th gear nearly as often as the original 31.9” tires.

I plan on replacing the 20” wheels with 17” as part of 2.5” lift

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[Sandman 4x4]

I’m not interested in 37” tires. I’ll be sticking to 34-35” tires.

That said, I’m currently running 33” on oe 20” rims and already notice I don’t hit 8th gear nearly as often as the original 31.9” tires.

I plan on replacing the 20” wheels with 17” as part of 2.5” lift

I’m very curious about the weight difference between stock 17” Jeep alloy wheels and aftermarket 20” alloy wheels. The difference between the two running in top gear I believe is due to the extra weight involved, from either a dead stop, to spinning up to pass on the highways. It’s called unsprung weight that’s the enemy of performance and efficiency. Not to mention causing the shocks to work harder to keep the wheels in contact with the road.

 

[BjornF16]

I’m very curious about the weight difference between stock 17” Jeep alloy wheels and aftermarket 20” alloy wheels. The difference between the two running in top gear I believe is due to the extra weight involved, from either a dead stop, to spinning up to pass on the highways. It’s called unsprung weight that’s the enemy of performance and efficiency. Not to mention causing the shocks to work harder to keep the wheels in contact with the road.

Are you asking about wheel weight or combo wheel/tire weight?

17’s with taller sidewalls are much heavier than my stock 20”

 

[Sandman 4x4]

Both ways if not too much trouble. Or just wheels. Only forged wheels weigh less than cast alloy.

 

[Big John]

Thanks for all the replies. Leaning towards front locker.

Now, 4.56 or 4.88 with 35” tires?

I see new JL’s getting 4.56 with 35” extreme tire package…does that translate well to Gladiator (or is Gladiator heavier and needs the 4.88)? I see Exodus 4x4 recommends 4.88

Listen to Exodus, they have done hundreds (if not thousands) of gear swaps. They are easily one of the best in the country. If they recommended 4.88 (for your specific scenario) then go with 4.88's.
-A satisfied repeat customer

 

[Blade1668]

Thanks for all the replies. Leaning towards front locker.

Now, 4.56 or 4.88 with 35” tires?

I see new JL’s getting 4.56 with 35” extreme tire package…does that translate well to Gladiator (or is Gladiator heavier and needs the 4.88)? I see Exodus 4x4 recommends 4.88

My XJ I have 4:56 gears in it and it actually put the speedometer on with 33-35" tires (stock was 29-30" tires and 3:54/3:55 gears). 3:73-4:10 gears are a stronger pinion gear than going deeper "fewer teeth" on pinion in gauging ring gear. More of a issue if you flog it off-road. I'm assuming you have 3:73 gears already non-Rubicon /Mojave/ Max-Tow 4:10.
Another factor with 4:56, 4:88, 5:10 ECT is the axles will run hotter on the road or at speed if driving a few hours at I-state speeds "or Texas driving speed" the housing can get hot enough to burn you if you touch it.
Otherwise decide on the tires you want reset (speedometer) computer for that size and drive it with them a few days to decide if you need to. It might not be in 8th gear as much.
If Towing a lot a gear change is definitely possible. I've took a hit on towing with my Gladiator Max-Tow in gas mileage and otherwise due to larger tires.

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