Add-on hitch advice

[Chasm]

I know I'll upset some people but here goes...

BLUF
Looking for advice on the capabilities of a cheap bolt on hitch.
$50 Chinesium vs $100 Taiwanesium
Are they worth it?

TDLR
Getting ready to move, have some things that I don't trust with movers, and that would be easier to load on a low trailer rather than the bed of the Gladiator or even a rented box truck.
Nothing real big or heavy. Not a long move.
In my area, 4x6 or 5x8 utility trailers are regularly available for almost free. Just a glorified garden cart really.
With some of the hitches I'm seeing I think I could add the hitch and trailer for not much more than renting a truck for a couple days, and end up with a permanent capability instead, or at least the ability to take as many trips as I want at my leisure.

Even though I have the "Max Tow Fenders", I don't have the Max Tow Package. Depending on the sources I find online that means I either have 4000lbs or 6000lbs. Doesn't really matter, since I wouldn't exceed either.

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[Pips_the_JT]

I've never heard of either of those, but I had UHAUL install hitches on a couple of cars and a Nissan Frontier - never had a problem.

Good luck with your move!

 

[Chasm]

100
https://www.amazon.com/CURT-13434-Trailer-Receiver-Gladiator/dp/B082VWCRQ9

https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-Receiver-Compatible-Gladiator/dp/B091G27WN2



50 (many options, all probably from the same sweatshop)
https://www.amazon.com/Receiver-Gladiator-JT-2020-2025-American/dp/B0FH9RS7PF

https://www.amazon.com/Receiver-Compatible-Gladiator-2020-2023-Resistant/dp/B0DLSX4X91

https://www.amazon.com/Gladiator-Trailer-Receiver-2021-2025-𝐔𝐩𝐠𝐫𝐚𝐝𝐞𝐝/dp/B0DP455J6B

 

[David G]

You may later decide to tow something heavier, but still within your towing weight range. I bought this class 4 hitch which was easy to install. I tow my heavy stuff with my Ford dually, but I don’t always need a one ton to haul lighter stuff on a 7x12 utility trailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Draw~Tite/DR64FR.html

 

[JTzntz]

If your JT didn’t come with a factory square receiver then the add-on class III receivers from Reese or Curt are most likely at your vehicles max tow rating. Just a thought, as adding a higher rating hitch will not increase your JT’s tow rating

 

[Chasm]

. I bought this class 4 hitch which was easy to install.

That's the cheapest class4 I've seen. Did it require drilling, or just bolt on?
Looks like that one might go on without even needing to drop the bumper, which might save me some money because the idea of dropping the bumper had me looking at slimmer rear bumpers, and looking at the rear had me looking at the front.... the snowball keeps rolling.

If your JT didn’t come with a factory square receiver then the add-on class III receivers from Reese or Curt are most likely at your vehicles max tow rating.

That was kind of my thought. I know overkill rarely hurts (other than cost), but at some point enough is enough. I haven't pulled a trailer in 25 years and I don't see myself diving back in and coming near needing class3 even.

I see people saying 4000, others saying 4500, others saying Nighthawks start at 6000, and still others saying all 2025's start at 6000, with Max Tow only boosting that to 7700 anyway.
Honestly I feel like the brakes are too weak for much weight anyway, but that might be because I've been driving "sportier" models for a while.

 

[Janster]

Not familiar with those.... so, instead of 2 cents, I'll give you a quarter (inflation)....

If you're gonna put a hitch on, make sure the hitch rating matches or exceeds (recommended) the tow rating of your Gladdy. If you want to tow something again (and/or heavier) in the future....... you're full equipped to do it - versus - Two years down the road, you forget that your hitch isn't rated for 5,000lbs. Don't laugh...It could happen.

 

[Dweisman429]

When I added the receiver on mine, I went with the curt brand at more than twice the price of the ebay variety chinesium version.

While I did not actually put hands on the cheaper one, judging only by the pictures I saw on both ebay and Amazon, I would say that they were likely both made by the same kid on the sweatshop production line...just a different sticker.

Thinking I was getting the superior product because of price...nope probably not

 

[Chasm]

Not familiar with those.... so, instead of 2 cents, I'll give you a quarter (inflation)....

If you're gonna put a hitch on, make sure the hitch rating matches or exceeds (recommended) the tow rating of your Gladdy. If you want to tow something again (and/or heavier) in the future....... you're full equipped to do it - versus - Two years down the road, you forget that your hitch isn't rated for 5,000lbs. Don't laugh...It could happen.

Noted. Most of the class3's at least CLAIM 5000 though

Thinking I was getting the superior product because of price...nope probably not

That was kind of my thought. Granted, we can't see the metallurgy through the paint, but a lot of them definitely look identical, down to the questionable welds. So if I'm getting something I might have to add some weld to anyway, might as well not pay double!

I was wondering if anyone would come on here to say"my cheapy bent and fell off the first time I used it!"
So far all I've found is a different thread where he said his bolts all came loose and it fell off. Most likely he had a torque issue, and most likely I'd add some locktite and retorque after the first use.

 

[David G]

That's the cheapest class4 I've seen. Did it require drilling, or just bolt on?
Looks like that one might go on without even needing to drop the bumper, which might save me some money because the idea of dropping the bumper had me looking at slimmer rear bumpers, and looking at the rear had me looking at the front.... the snowball keeps rolling.


That was kind of my thought. I know overkill rarely hurts (other than cost), but at some point enough is enough. I haven't pulled a trailer in 25 years and I don't see myself diving back in and coming near needing class3 even.

I see people saying 4000, others saying 4500, others saying Nighthawks start at 6000, and still others saying all 2025's start at 6000, with Max Tow only boosting that to 7700 anyway.
Honestly I feel like the brakes are too weak for much weight anyway, but that might be because I've been driving "sportier" models for a while.

Yes, just an easy bolt on. No drilling required. Installed it by myself and took about 30 minutes. I’m quite happy with it.. also, no need to drop the bumper.

 

[Chasm]

Yes, just an easy bolt on. No drilling required. Installed it by myself and took about 30 minutes. I’m quite happy with it.. also, no need to drop the bumper.

The one thing that is pushing me away is this image in their customer pics. Looks like it sticks out a long way! From what I can see, looks about double the cheapy extension. I already want to shorten the truck, not lengthen it! (Granted, that's more about the front bumper than the rear)

 

[Chasm]

I'm torn here. Best option or worst (cheapest) option. If that class IV didn't stick out that far I'd definitely go for it. I like the 1100lb tongue weight vs the 500... not that I need it.

 

[Deleted member 57233]

Check marketplace for a Mopar class IV take off. I ended up with an extra one and basically had to give it away.

 

[Chasm]

Check marketplace for a Mopar class IV take off. I ended up with an extra one and basically had to give it away.

In my looking around Marketplace, it seems the only thing people do around me is swap wheels/tires. The only one I found was a two hour drive away... and was not what they think it is. It's not a hitch/receiver, it's the same rear cross-member I have.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

@Hootbro has a bolt-on solution on his, I believe.

Me, I go for the full MOPAR piece, but gotta admit, his works. (it might be that curt one above)

Check marketplace for a Mopar class IV take off. I ended up with an extra one and basically had to give it away.

Also a great option.

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