I don’t think I’d be doing anything crazy with whoops or go fast in the desert. Would I still be able to get away without an internal spacer? Maybe if I do, I can see if that’s something ADS may be able to do when I rebuild the shocks.
Eventually, I’ll switch over to some extended SS brake...
Hey all,
Just scored some ADS piggyback racing shocks for free (no seriously, it was free). However, it came from a JL.
From my knowledge and a bit of researching, the fronts can be a direct fit for the front, but the rear may need some modification?
I took a peek at the front and it seems to...
Yep, synergy requires it if you’re using the stock track bar. Probably cause if you bottom out, it’ll smack the brace.
However, I found my answer. Checked the bump stop mounts for the Rubicon and there are already holes drilled into it so it’s just bolt on!
Gonna go with Synergy.
So, the Steer smarts doesn’t state it needs 2” bump stops like the Synergy one does. Does the Rubicon need to be drilled out in order to install the 2” bump stops required for Synergy?
Damn it, I didn’t realize that I wasn’t getting enough clearance lately and so the remote reservoir has been hitting the top.
How are you guys turning it on a stock Rubicon?
Has anybody ran this with a stock Rubicon? I’m reading through the fitments and it seems like for a stock Rubicon, you’ll need the bump stops installed as well…
If you get the JK kit, it’s already tie rod mounted so the kit includes the track bar stud and the tie rod clamp.
If you want it axle mounted, then you’d go for the JL/JT version.
Got the confirmation from the Fox service techs.
You’ll need someone to hold the steering wheel full lock to the right and then it should be a 1/4” from there.
Could you guys post a full lock to the passenger side photo for me to see?
I’m wondering if I’ll need to adjust mine. Not sure if it’s pushing against the stabilizer when I’m turning all the way to the right. Earlier I pulled out of a parking spot and it felt like I needed to do a 2 point turn...