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Thanks for everyone’s responses. Now I’m wondering how do you know if you have too much spacer? I’m going with the Clayton Overland+ 3.5” and given that I won’t have a bunch of added weight I’ll likely get a little more than 3.5”. I saw both spacers on sale at Northridge this morning. Is it bad...

So it seems there are 2 main options for carrier bearing spacers. There’s the Rockjock @ roughly 3/4” and Rock Krawler @ over 2”. I see a lot of people recommend installing one to help with pinion angles post lift but my question is which one is the best option for a 3.5” lift? I haven’t...

No personal experience but seems like possibly a bad idea. Not only are your tires bigger than spec but it’s likely your truck is too heavy as well. Not saying it couldn’t work but it might be risky.

Nah dude, love the math answer…math is math!

Premium has Johnny Joint adjusters and Overland doesn't. Everything else appears to be the same.

Looks fantastic! I’m considering something very similar. Does yours still fit in the garage shown?

Exactly, where to draw the line for the sake of looking cool while cruising through town? OP didn’t give a stated budget so who’s to say? Just go buy the Nacho Diesel build but don’t wheel it?

Since it looks like no one wants to actually answer your question I’ll take a stab at it. For cruising around town on 37’s it’s hard to beat a spacer lift from an economic standpoint. There are several good ones to choose from as it’s not that complicated. Tires tend to be personal preference...

How does a bad main battery blow a fuse? Aren’t fuses blown due to excess current draw? How does that happen when a main battery “goes bad”?

You can also use 12v adapters through your 7 pin trailer harness connector to run a low amp battery charger through. That’s what I do to top off mine anytime SOC drops below 90%. I run a NOCO 1 overnight to top it off.

What I find interesting is that the list of parameters in OBDLink is quite extensive and discretely lists the things you mention plus a ton more but it has this one “Generic” parameter that seems to be the outlier. The SCR system has a parameter that is the reason it’s deactivated occasionally...

Let me start by saying I did perform a search with little to no results. Also, I’m not interested in deleting aux battery or disabling the ESS functionality. What I’m after is a deeper understanding of what influences the system. Having said that here’s my situation. Every now and then the ESS...

That’s possible but not guaranteed. It could happen if the tire is sealed to the rim tight enough so that the nitrogen molecules can’t escape. It’s a fine line and one that a tire shop wouldn’t have the ability to measure. There’s so much variation in tire and wheel manufacturing that to...

Here’s the thing with nitrogen fill… Nitrogen is a larger molecule than oxygen or carbon dioxide so there is something to the theory that it won’t escape as easily but we’re talking about molecular level measurements. The other thing to remember is that our atmosphere is predominantly nitrogen...

I routinely run mine down less than 1/4 tank according to the gauge and it's not unusual for me to wait until the low fuel light comes on just because I'm rarely far from a good place to fuel up. What you described has not happened to me yet on my JT. The only somewhat similar situation I've...

You can replace either one independently but the main is probably on borrowed time. Of course there’s always the option to delete the aux. there’s a ton of threads on that subject though.

For another data point I have a completely stock Overland diesel and last summer towed a roughly 4,000+ lbs trailer of oak logs from south Arkansas to northwest Arkansas in august heat. Only on the longest grade did I have to slow down to avoid derate otherwise I kept it at 75mph the whole way.

At that weight you’ll be fine with any JT configuration. My wife’s CRV can tow 1500lbs. Unless you think you may go over roughly 3,000lbs someday you’re in no danger. Of course all of that assumes you’re not driving crazy fast or massive inclines while towing. At least that’s my opinion.

I have a 2000W inverter (3000 peak) and my 15A table saw has too much draw on startup for it to handle. It starts to spin then the inverter shuts it down after a second. I only say that to point out that 2000W may not be enough even though the math says it should be. Now my saw is a cheap...

Most likely without being able to trace it to the source. Usually the sweet smell gives it away.