I've got close to 700# constant weight in the back of mine (tent+tools+rack) with Dobinson HD springs and Rubi shocks. The solution to pogo-stick bounce for me was more tire pressure. An extra 10 PSI quieted all that shit down, and it's a zero-dollar fix.
I'm happy with this one. Easy install, easy access to the winch, and protection for the swaybar included.
https://motobilt.com/collections/jeep-gladiator-20-current-year/products/jeep-jl-gladiator-front-bumper-2018-present-wrangler-jl-gladiator-motobilt
Drum brakes suck, but you're correct they do the job just fine on a midsize truck.
Let's talk about the Tacoma "C" channel frame that flops like a wet noodle when you load it.
It's not good for handling. You want the trackbar as close to parallel with the axle at ride height as possible.
You want the vertical motion of the suspension to cause minimal horizontal motion in the axle, because that pulls the truck side to side.
I looked at those, but ended up just making my own bracket for the front of the flair, just a piece of 1/8" steel and some 3M super tape bolted to one of the body tabs your old fender flairs bolted to, then I installed some LED pods tied into the wiring harness. <4 hours from start to finish.
You'll want to get a panhard bar correction bracket for the back. You want the rear panhard bar as close to parallel as possible at ride height. The front panhard has to match the angle of the steering link.
Probably? I gutted the fenders on my Overland edition so I can clear tires without a lift (35s for sure, maybe 37s). And all the parts were still in usable condition after I pulled them apart and broke the plastic welds. A model/hobby shop that specializes in miniature figures or similar would...