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So far, so good: The clamp in the lower holds a strip of plywood we used to measure maximum length so that we can use the front seat with full adjustment if the rear space is empty. Started with the base panel as well today, didn't get it done though. Tomorrow we should get this done and...

Awesome that you are working with a shop for this Alu-Cab accessory that, in my opinion, is something I'd LOVE to have. Taking the bicycle makes a lot of sense. We have the L-track on our Land Cruiser: And I find it more usable than typical c-channel the Alu-Cab has for things that are...

That's awesome. Let's do the following: I'll find the load bars first. I take it you cut them to 30"? Seems Rhino only has them in 24" and 48". I'll mount them and we can confirm measurements, since I have a slightly different door, mine has c-channel on the inside where your's has square...

Are you selling the mount panels that go between the load bars? I'm thinking of installing some of these Pioneer bars on the rear door and was thinking about this layout (not to scale, just ideas, which would still be lighter than a wheel): The handle is in the high position since the door is...

Hmpf. More measurements show that these are too high - the fridge wouldn't open fully, making it inconvenient to get stuff in/out. [See update below => I measured wrong] Somehow I must have mis-calculated this. Luckily we checked again before proceeding. Need to cut these shorter by about...

Looks good, I had seen this before on a different project but forgot about it. Although I think this might not fit in the tiny space the panel leaves in the groove. The Baltic Birch panel is 6mm, the groove in the Series 25 extrusion is 6.5mm. Don't think that rubber gasket will fit there, but...

I'm using metric Series 25. It's possibly the same as the Series 10 (1"): https://8020.net/25-2525.html I have slight OCD with using metric fasteners, which generally cost me an arm and leg, but so far, I've been successful avoiding non-metric stuff. Your platform looks good. We also had the...

One more reminder: the bolt holes on the top, where the hard top bolts go through, are in different positions for the inner and outer brackets (if I remember correctly, the hole center is 10mm from rear for the inners and 20mm from rear for the outers, but I could be slightly off there). The...

The 8020 groove is just over 6mm, so felt tape wouldn't fit. We have Gaffer's tape under the 8020 between truck metal and 8020, plus Gaffer's tape around the lower edge of the plywood. There is also foam glued to the cabin back wall in some places, plus two pieces of larger foam between rear...

It has one downside: There is quite a distance between the upper mounting brackets and the lower 8020 groove which opens the possiblity for rattle. I'll report back how our various measures against that work. And one hint: a 90 degree 2 inch strip of aluminum works, the brackets are 25mm wide...

It looks pretty good in the truck. We used carpet from O'Reilly, certainly not the best quality, but the only one I was able to source locally that wasn't simple felt but had some carpet haptic to it. Going to use some of that for the camper build as well. One thing: if I were to do it again, I...

So, here's the result of the truck cabin rear panel, which was the model for the above template: How it's made: 6mm Baltic Birch Plywood, measurements see above post. Automotive carpet from O'Reilly. Some killmat on the rear truck metal as well as on the plywood (just two 18 inch or so...

It actually took us multiple days of "a few hours a day" to get this rear panel done, from which we measured the above template: The bottom of the panel won't be visible when the platform is in, that's why there is a bit of space from carpet to 8020. There is one strip of Gaffer's tape around...

Same here, I'm basically doing some level of "product development" while I'm building the various pieces of my rig, and I'm also making the templates with measurements and explanations available. Doesn't mean somebody can easily replicate it, but for example, what takes the most time to build a...

Depending on the wood and coating they use, it's around 200 to 250 bucks or less for just the materials. At least, that's what it cost me to buy the wood, the extrusions, and the bedliner needed to make it. I spend another 1600 to 1800 or so on tools and some more on other small things, but I'm...

It's time and ability more than anything else. Because for that price, you can buy the materials, the tools, and do it as I'm currently doing it: next to the truck, under the awning. It's not that hard, it just takes a lot of time because if you want to get it halfway decent, you have to do at...

We have the "manual" version. It should be "good enough". Regarding suspension, it is relatively okay right now, I will not do anything before we are at final weight. We actually may add a winch to the front, despite what I said before, the furniture is really hard to calcuate right now, given...

Unfortunately, we are making REALLY slow progress these days. Too many things going on overall. Made a rear plate for the truck cabin: Mounting brackets: Added some butyl mat on the truck rear wall to reduce drone: And made a template for the rear trim plate. PM, if you're interested...

Which size? Maybe something like this: https://www.511tactical.com/laser-cut-molle-gear-set.html or this: https://www.amazon.com/IronSeals-Organizer-Tactical-Vehicle-Protector/dp/B0875SJXRZ There are a myriad of options, depending on the size you're looking for.

That and the fact that the longer it is, the more leverage it will put on the mounting screws and threads.