Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call

[cug]

So, I don't know whether there is a better place for this, but I haven't seen one. Please feel free to point me to it or move my question:

I'm currently thinking on how to best utilize the water tank in the ACCC for my "livable interior build". I do not have a gravity outlet installed, since I wanted to plan the water system in my own time.

Here's what I want to include:

• Run a line from the tank to a strainer
• Use a Shurflow water pump as the main pump
• Hook up to a Guzzle H2O water filter system (yes, I'm aware of this being out-of-this-world expensive, but I want to have access to easy drinking water without having to think about to much)
• Run this to a small sink inside the camper, which empties into a jerry can for "grey water"
• Have another line from the pump directly to an outside outlet for outside use

Now, I have zero experience with plumbing this and would highly appreciate any recommendations on what water hoses, clamps, etc. to use. I don't want to get into an extended discussion about the total setup here, but feel free to point me to a place where that discussion is appropriate or PM me.

Do I need high pressure hoses anywhere? Should I use PEX, with the appropriate connectors and adaptors of course. Any other suggestions?

Please, feel free to educate me and/or point me to the right place to get educated about this.

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[Free2roam]

Not an ACCC but it's my idea of how to refill water. Took a water heater drip pan drain and modified it. Cut a hole directly into the cap and plumbed it in. Then found this Johnson marine bulkhead fitting and used that. For my threads because I was limited in height I used a heated up 3/4 steel pipe to make my own threads on the PVC. Pretty much all home Depot stuff. Boiling water helps stretch the hose out without burning it as well.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Today's modification here was to remove the gas strut at the rear door and install an 813 Fabrication bracket to stop the door.

We wanted to be able to just leave it slightly ajar, and with the gas strut forcing it open, this wasn't possible. So, for now, we removed it. Maybe we find a better solution at some point.

The 813 Fabrication bracket is a high quality piece, I just wish it was a bit longer, so that the strap wouldn't rub on the door seal. Other than that, it does what it's supposed to do.

To keep the door open, this is the short term "solution":

The slightly less short term solution will likely be a turn buckle or a threaded rod or something similar and some brackets similar to the one that holds the gas strut in the door added to the c-channels. Manual, but should be easy and solid enough.

Glad you like the strap kit! I would have made it a bit longer but was afraid that it could be a head injury hazard if longer.

 

[cug]

Glad you like the strap kit! I would have made it a bit longer but was afraid that it could be a head injury hazard if longer.

That and the fact that the longer it is, the more leverage it will put on the mounting screws and threads.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

If you "really test it", it would be great to hear your impression. We have one too, but the truck just isn't in a state for a trip right now. Would be interesting to know whether it works without a fan venting to the outside. We have a different composting toilet in a camper in Europe, which has an exhaust fan to the outside – and I had the impression, that this really was needed.

I have the Kildwick Piccoloo and love it! The Trelino was not available when I bought mine or I would have looked at that one. I stained mine black to blend in more with the interior. Most don't know it is a toilet. There is never any smell, but I also don't leave it to "compost". I clean it after #2 use. I can use it perfectly without opening the top so it works great for my use.

You can see it strapped to the CabSide MOLLE Panel

https://www.kildwick.com/en/piccoloo-black

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

That and the fact that the longer it is, the more leverage it will put on the mounting screws and threads.

Exactly!

 

[Free2roam]

Anyone know where to find molle panels made of fabric instead of aluminum or steel? Need some for the inside of the camper

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

We have a shower cube and it will be used mainly there. But you never know in emergency situations when you’ll need to use it in the camper. Aka, avoid truck stop sushi ??

HAHA! In my case... IBS!

Anyone know where to find molle panels made of fabric instead of aluminum or steel? Need some for the inside of the camper

I don't know of any fabric ones. I have several sizes in aluminum. Let me know if there is something I can help get figured out.

 

[cug]

Anyone know where to find molle panels made of fabric instead of aluminum or steel? Need some for the inside of the camper

Which size? Maybe something like this:

https://www.511tactical.com/laser-cut-molle-gear-set.html

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/IronSeals-Organizer-Tactical-Vehicle-Protector/dp/B0875SJXRZ

There are a myriad of options, depending on the size you're looking for.

 

[fourfa]

i did a whole bulkhead of fabric MOLLE panels. Basic Amazon stuff, wasn’t expensive

 

[chorky]

I have played with a few ideas but don't have anything I am happy with yet. Have you seen my seat deletes? SHW Off-Road has their first prototype mounted in my truck. It is a full system but I believe they will also make a rear wall section to work with other seat deletes. I will have prototype 2 in the truck in a few weeks. The rear wall will have a deeper cabinet and MOLLE panel inside. In the photo, the foam insert is shown

https://shwoffroad.com/product/jeep-gladiator-seat-delete/

I can't believe they still charge $2,500 for this thing. Its nice sure, but man, I built my deck (minus the back board and drawers of course) for under 200 bucks!

 

[Steven_B]

I can't believe they still charge $2,500 for this thing. Its nice sure, but man, I built my deck (minus the back board and drawers of course) for under 200 bucks!

Not everyone has the time, tools, or space to build their own.

 

[chorky]

Not everyone has the time, tools, or space to build their own.

Yes I totally understand - I fall into that category. Barely had enough tools/time to build mine. But $2,500 is excessive and taking advantage IMO. But that's par for the market these days. I would be curious to know what the raw material cost is.

 

[cug]

Not everyone has the time, tools, or space to build their own.

It's time and ability more than anything else. Because for that price, you can buy the materials, the tools, and do it as I'm currently doing it: next to the truck, under the awning. It's not that hard, it just takes a lot of time because if you want to get it halfway decent, you have to do at least some "product development", which is very time consuming and can be frustrating.

 

[cug]

I would be curious to know what the raw material cost is.

Depending on the wood and coating they use, it's around 200 to 250 bucks or less for just the materials. At least, that's what it cost me to buy the wood, the extrusions, and the bedliner needed to make it. I spend another 1600 to 1800 or so on tools and some more on other small things, but I'm also building the camper interior myself ...

The thing is: with a little bit of effort and creativity, the tools needed (!!) for building this are less than $500 new. To make your life easier, you'd spend some more, but there isn't all that much actually needed: a drill, a jig saw, the wood, the bedliner, a measuring tape and a square. Some time and additional wood to build jigs to make clean and straight cuts. But really, it's not too bad. I'm currently doing it and I have never done this before. Get a router and a track saw as well as a miter saw and you have all the tools you need, now just need the time and ability to build the thing.

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