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Yup, that's what I was getting at. Also, inverters are not 100% efficient: 400W out will take more than 400W in. As a rough rule-of-thumb, Volts x Amps = Power. Kevin

If you’re looking for 120VAC household current in the back, wire up the inverter under the hood and run 120V to the rear. A 400W inverter will draw ~40A, which is 8ga. wire that is expensive. The same 400W at 120V is under 4A, and a 16ga. extension cord will work, and is cheap. Kevin

How fast were you going? Did anything occur to start the shaking (like you hit a bump/pothole)? Kevin

You fine gentlemen did happen to notice this thread is nearly 4 years old, right? Kevin

I’ve had this happen, but it usually takes a couple of weeks to bleed off the vacuum. Kevin

My ‘21 is at 60,000 miles, and no major issues. Not even any minor ones, either. Kevin

Maybe, maybe not. The Overland trim isn't offered for 2024, and it's been very popular with those that have them. It may turn out to be worth more than a run-of-the-mill Rubicon. Kevin

There are several headlight threads on here regarding headlight aiming. A good housing will have height adjusters. It's assumed that a properly built headlight housing will point along the axis of the truck, so no lateral adjustment is provided. Basically, you want the cutoff on the low beam...

A word of caution... Some of the inexpensive LED replacements use washers & springs on the mounting screws for aiming. Be sure you get some the have adjusters built in to the light housing! The ones I have (posted earlier) do, and they're a breeze to set. Kevin

I have a set of these... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09N79VG65 I've had them for 15 months & ~20k miles, and not had a bit of trouble. I don't know how they compare to OEM, but they're much better than LED lamps in the halogen housing! Kevin

But... But... How can the OEM CAI be smooth and not cause problems? ? Kevin

I've towed my JT without issue. I use the Maximus-3 tow loops & a Falcon All Terrain towbar. With it behind my 36' class A, I hardly even know it's back there! Watch your hitch ratings, as my Sport S comes in just under the 5000# hitch rating. Kevin

Honestly, why? Do you seriously forget what you're driving and need the reminder? Kevin

That's why the current model is the Gladiator. The original from the '60's was based on the full-sized Jeep platform, instead of the CJ platform. I have one: it's a '71. In '72 AMC dropped the Gladiator moniker and they were J-series trucks. Kevin Damn, that really sounds like an old man...

The back-up camera is a fixed-focus, wide angle lens. In reduced light, the depth of field (the in-focus part of the image) will be reduced. The only time mine is somewhat blurry is when it needs to be cleaned... Kevin

Must be a limitation of the F53 chassis. I have a 36' Bounder on an F53, and I'm in the same boat: very near the weight limits. Oh, and I use a Brake Buddy. Kevin

So a JKU with some body modifications? Kevin

After I programmed mine to LED for the turn/DRL, the only time I've had issues was due to a faulty/failing LED lamp. Just because the lamps are new doesn't mean they aren't faulty. If it still acts up after programming, try swapping the bulbs left to right. Kevin

So are you purposely being obtuse? You've gotten your answer several times. You're talking apples & oranges. Kevin

Don't forget that the, "Curb Weight," is typically dry weight, and also does not include any accessories you've added. So be sure to figure in fuel and accessory weight. Or take it to a local scale, with a full tank of fuel, and see what it really weighs! Kevin