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7/10 as in 0.7V A typical silicon high-power diode has that voltage drop. Unless you can monitor the voltage for charging directly at the battery, and not before the diode (as it would be with a toad,) the Jeep battery won't achieve a full charge: it'll always be 0.7V low. Kevin

I didn’t use a diode (a silicon diode will have a 7/10V drop across it, thus affecting the charge on the Jeep battery. To do it right, you should use a battery isolator that puts diodes on both batteries,) just ran the RV +12V to the Jeep battery through a 30A fuse (I’m using 10 ga. wire.) If...

I use a charge line on mine. I have the Brake Buddy braking system, and it'll run the battery dead without a charge line. I also use wireless tail lights modified to use the Jeep's +12V instead of the light's batteries. Kevin

And where would one find these? Kevin

Looks to me like someone has messed up your adjuster(s). There's supposed to be another beveled gear in there so that you can adjust the beam height from above. Kevin

Just out of curiosity, do you have the drain plug removed? Kevin

But you’re a reasonable person that understands the ESS system, not a hair-triggered internet nobody whose answer to the ESS is to get rid of it. It works like it’s supposed to IF there aren’t other issues with the truck. It’s been proven to reduce both fuel consumption and emissions. BUT...

I think we need to verify that with @ShadowsPapa ... :LOL: Kevin

Actually, if you've corrected you speedometer/odometer, the truck's calculations will be more accurate than hand calculations. You'll have a hard time filling up to the exact level every time: pump differences & temperature differences will cause the fill level to vary. The truck knows precisely...

I'll say it again: that average is a rolling average. I know, you'll say that it's the same as the average in the actual trip screen, but I've seen differences of several MPG between the two. That's how I managed this: Freeway, rural & city combined. Gentle acceleration, coasting to stops...

I didn't mention voltage. The Primary Wire is the input to the inverter, in this case, 12V (nominal.) For 2 kW at 12V, and considering no inverter is 100% efficient, you're looking at nearly 200A on the primary side, so a 2/0 wire is recommended. And typically a 14-gauge wire at 120VAC is only...

One must then wonder… Why a 2kW inverter? Kevin

Keep in mind your 2 gauge primary wire is rated at 115A, and a 2,000W inverter can draw nearly 200A at full load. Did you fuse your primary wire at 115A? Kevin

If I leave the source set as either Bluetooth in the Media selection or have Phone (in my case, CarPlay) selected, it will minimize the radio blaring at me. But it still does it sometimes. Kevin

What? Your CANBUS isn’t heated with steam? I thought the Overland had this decidedly rare option… lol Kevin

I've tried a couple of different wireless lights. The biggest disadvantage is the lights themselves have batteries that need replaced/recharged. The first set I had used AA batteries, but I modified them to run off of 12VDC, and plugged them into the Jeep's 7-pin outlet. The lights worked, but...

That's exactly where mine's at. I got rid of the Hot Wheels & shitty HT Duelers, and got a set of 17" Rubicon & 18" Sahara wheels, and buy whichever size tires I can get a deal on. The spare ain't gonna match regardless, and it IS a spare, so there it stays. If I didn't hate Fix-a-Flat so much...

Except it wasn’t officially a Gladiator. AMC dropped the Gladiator name in 1972, and the pickups were just J-series trucks. Kevin

Other than the fact that they’re required in many locales… Kevin

Did you check the Passive Entry settings on the touchscreen? Make sure they haven’t changed? Kevin