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Sorry, could you clarify what you mean by “will ever?” They may never offer them? So the only replacements I have are the ones it came with? We’re unable to get any more? The wipers are just done after that?

wow that is a great price, someone take the dive on this and tell me if it’s good

That’ll take some getting used to haha. Quite a different sound! les than two weeks until I get mine installed, this makes me excited.

Interested in this too. My goal was a PullKitchen, but they said they aren’t producing them anymore.

Not to mention you can actually get an Alu-cab… can’t say the same for rsi. (Had my order delayed almost a year before I gave up and bought my Alu-cab.)

C Can you provide some photos?

When I looked over the instructions, I surely thought that difference is where we went wrong, but we got the spacer location correct as well.

I disagree. I also ordered my smartcap in February. After being dragged along by this company until my order ETA was pushing a year from ordering to February of ‘23, I cancelled my order and ordered an AluCab Contour end of December. Two weeks later and I have my AluCab, just as it should be.

Glad to hear it’s working out for you, that gives me some hope. I don’t recall are you gas or diesel? Instructions vary slightly depending.

Update with photos for sure, I need to see this

Im not saying either way, I just found that quote online and thought it would be useful here. Don’t look at me, my rig is toed In!

I’ve posted about it before, but just fyi, I’m currently in contact Metalcloak to figure out what went wrong, but after my installer triple checked his work, we ended up taking the Metalcloak sector shaft brace off. It was binding and creaking in the center of the steering wheels range of...

From Steersmarts: "Yes, the industry as a whole recommends .5˚ of toe-in. From the studies that we've conducted, we find that .5˚ of toe-out is what works the best with our products, as well as with countering any type of potential death wobble situation. Everyone is entitled to set things up...

I’ve been brooding over this issue for a few days. I obviously don’t want my winch to auto-fire and destroy my bumper, but goddamnit I don’t want to loose my wireless functionality. Reading over the recall, it says “The new wireless/corded remote currently being designed will have full...

This is a really poor shot of it, but I keep my phone mounted to the grab handle on the a pillar using Ram Mount. I settled on the spot because it’s easy to reach with my elbow on the door sill, is 100% out of the sight line of the windshield and the driver side window, and is also easy to...

Hence why I gave him my list of parts, as that’s working combination with 10’s of thousands of strenuous trail miles behind it, and a decade of industry know-how. What people? I don’t see anyone in here advocating that you can just throw parts together Willy-Nilly.

Well with my -25 offset l will happily test your theory. No way I’m changing these wheels, my rig is perfect the way it is. Drives 10x better than stock.

Though I am not a fan of drop brackets like I said, it’s worth noting that I did just find this thread with another user in the comments with Clayton lift experiencing the same issue. Apparently drop brackets did solve it for him. I still think that’s just masking the real issue...

I’m not really sure if geometry correction brackets is the solution here. It may be a solution, but that’s really just going to help mask whatever the issue actually is. Our builds are somewhat similar. I have the 3.5 Overland+ diesel lift from Clayton, and run Yokohama G003 37’s on a -25...

Do you feel like the 4.10s were enough, or do you wish you went to a 4.30 or 4.56?