Id have a hard time road tripping the roxor from Michigan to moab and back:) If I had more property here to use one Id be down! Plus we have a2 door JK that handles the running duties. I honestly prefer the JK manual in all its stock 140k mile glory over the cable shift 6 speed of the gladiator...
Im around 4.5" with no relocation brackets on the front, I do run adjustable arms, and I moved the rear axle back to center it in the wheel well. On the rear I have metal cloaks axle side geometry brackets, this was more for driveline angle through out articulation, not a drivability thing.
After running both now, I can say I had no issues with the pedal feel of the CF with both their external slave cylinder and the internal slave cylinder they just dont hold up to mild wheeling. At least not for me. The ACT so far I have 80 miles on it breaking it in, the feel is definitely a bit...
If anyone has been following my intermittent posts on the clutch issues with our 2022 heres the latest update. Got back from a weekend trip to Drumond island, about half way though the trip started having the same stuck shifter issues we had in Moab. Made it home and bled the clutch again, ended...
I should add, I'm usually 20-25psi for on road with the 37's when hitting 16mpg, I saw no improvement going to 35psi, only ride quality and contact patch suffered.
Its an average, so the shorter the trips around town starting and stopping the lower the average, usually. In order to average 15-16 that means you need to be above that for more of the time, to pull the average up.
Numbers during acceleration are really not applicable to anything. Its an educated guess by the system, looking at load, tps positions, fuel trims and what not. If I am accelerating normally, the instant milage stays about 7-9mpg until I "plane off" at cruising speed. With 5.13's and 37's i sit...
Another plus 1 for ARB, I have finally learned to just pay the man at the 4x4 shop to install differential stuff. I installed and ran the air lines, compressor and electrical. Just had my local shop setup the locker and gear set. To easy, super reliable. They did run the copper over the ring...
Our 22 has done it from day one. The 07 was also overflowing from when we purchased it in 2023 and my local dealer mentioned there had been a recall. 5 min fix was nice.
Finally searching this because its a pita, our 22 will routinely not shut the pump off, or shutoff and still run gas all over the fender flare. I did get a recall for our 07 jk that included a new filler tube with a check valve. That took care of the overflow issue with that one, I should look...
I have noticed a noticeable ride improvement with the metal cloak rear correction brackets. I am running adjustable upper and lowers from JKS front and rear at around 4.5" of lift, works very well. I am using the factory front mounting points, and steering, only adjustable track bars, in factory...
I trimmed my fronts so they didnt contact my factory rail, also, that rail is rotting from the inside anyway, look at the rust coming out of the caps. Get some fluid film and pop the cap off and spray that sucker full and you will buy yourself some time. Rockblocks are great imho, we run them...
I've never been happy with the steel aftermarket flares. Currently trying to source some Mohave or rubi fronts but they are impossible to find. Had DV8 fenders and a tire carrier on our JKU, was total crap after 3 months.
I chose to totally bypass any jeep input for reasons already stated above. I haven't got the front arb installed yet, as Im waiting for RCV's, but my rear air locker is able to be locked whenever I decide, at any point. There to many times where only being able to lock in four low is not...
An easier way to accomplish the relearn is to disconnect the two grounds on the passenger side near the battery. I did the speed up, slow down, bs once, absolute pita. Disconnect the two grounds for a minute, and reconnect, done. I'm running the Tazer mini, with 5.13's, and 37's with no issues...