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Did the metal cloaks about 250 miles ago. Highly recommend them, solid units USA made. Did it more precautionary as I was finishing installing the artec truss kit. The M210 is good to go until I upgrade to RCV's.

Spacers area fine, just get a good hub centric set. I ran 37x12.50x17's with a 1x1.250 spacer with no issues, and stock willys wheels.

I dont run the baxter piece on our 22, But it has had a J and L separator on it since new. It fills will oil about every 1000miles, we have 42k on it now as it is strictly a toy, have had no valve train/engine issues, just clutch problems😆

Replaced ours at 9k miles with the centerforce kit, then updated the throw-out bearing at 25k miles to the internal (Ford) style. Now the clutch has great feel, and release. The factory dual disc is garbage, and the thermal limit is a band aid for a junk system. 5.13's help a ton on the peaky...

I did the centerforce swap at 9k miles on our 22, put about a year on it 15k miles and it started not wanting to fully disengage. I updated the hydraulics from them and it seemed to help, but last year at Easter Jeep safari it started hanging up again. I contacted centerforce and they were super...

Where in michigan are you? I'm in and around Grand Rapids quite often.

This is with the 4.5" rock crawler rears. And still my sacked 3.5's and acos setup up front. The rear did ok, we run pretty heavy with camping gear and a tent.

Sorry I missed this. Yes I run a ARB Bondi stubby bumper, and a 9500 winch with synthetic line.

My jks 3.5" fronts lasted 35k miles, then I lost about a 1" up front. I'm going to try rock crawler 4.5" in the rear this go round, and I just ordered a fresh set of 3.5" for the front through jks again. At $116 for the pair, ill just swap them at 40k again. I use their acos front spring bump...

It won't fix you're tow issue, sounds like your making the right call for sure. If your going to pull any amount of time, buy a real truck.

Warranty never crossed my mind, went jks the first round, springs, and adjustable front lca's. Just updating now with 4.5" rear rock crawler springs, and another set of jks 3.5's up front with their acos system to fine tune the ride height. Jks adjustable arms top and bottom front and rear now...

Just my wife and I, one cooler, two back packs. Actual weight of the equipment. My point still is, I don't buy for a second the only factor from the manual tow rating to the auto tow rating is the trans. Its the same 3.6 allegedly, UNLESS, they use a totally different tune. There's no way that...

Guys, knock it off, crap like this makes actually getting to the bottom of things annoying.

Aftermarket clutch already in. Far superior to the stock setup.

Thats what I am thinking too. If its only letting 70% throttle that would explain alot.

Ok, lets try to stay on topic. I'm not trying to switch to an automatic, or electric, or diesel. My hunch is, and no one has had a satisfactory answer yet, that the throttle body is not even opening 100%. Given that there is zero, audible change in intake noise, exhaust note, or rpm change...

Also these pictures were unloaded, no trailor "normal driving" on flat ground.

Could it be its de rated as it's a manual? Rpm is rpm with the 5.13's it cruises fibe at 60mph in 6th when just running around. I'm still baffled that there is not response from 1/2 pedal to wot under load, I have never experienced that before.

Here is the real world 6th vs 4th on flat ground cruise was set for each. So the majority of my trailor pulling was in 4th at 3100-3200 rpm. I agree that is to the low side of optimum for power band, but it didn't make any notable difference if I ran it in 3rd at 65mph. I'm just summarizing she...

You got me questioning myself now :). It was a long 8hrs haha. I dont think its that low at 70mph, but now I'm going to look lol. That looks like a solid calculator too.