the driveline vibration is 100% coming from FAD issue. That may or may not be why I have the service 4wd light. my codes are U1159 Lost Communication with Automatic Sway Bar System & U403: Implausible Data Received From T-Case
The front drive shaft is NOT supposed to spin in 2wd, but since the...
pulled drive shaft off front diff and just tied it off to front skid so it's still attached at transfer case & vibration is gone.
gonna put the 4 bolts on once I get to trail since i've got a few hundred off road miles planned & then will plan to get it properly fixed when I get back
agreed it's either stuck (electrical) or stuck (mechanical failure).
the vibration is caused by the drive shaft angle being too great for higher speed use. If i had minimal lift it might not be an issue but I have 4" of lift with 6.5 degrees of caster. my adams 1350 front driveshaft is fine...
unlikely bc that is more of a vibration you can feel in the steering wheel & see the vibration in the cab, whereas I'm experiencing harmonic vibration -- which is primarily audible. additionally, wheel balance issues worsen at higher speed but in this case it's RPM dependent ie. if going 65 but...
haven't checked codes...good idea lol -- i considered ABS sensors, checked all which are visually intact. the last time I tore off an ABS speed sensor I also got warning lights for traction control/ABS which I did not get this time, so I assumed that was not the cause.
yea, continued vibrations...
should depend on driveline angles. i'm running 4" lift with about 6.5 caster. i was considering going solid axle shafts from RCV but when i spoke to them they said for higher lifts to expect driveline vibrations on the highway so I decided to go with the 2 piece axle shafts (haven't installed...
i would not recommend it. my FAD broke in the locked position acting like a FAD delete & the driveline vibrations are real. would be fine if you never plan to drive over 60 mph.....
i'd say the other thing that it could "hurt" is wear on driveline -- could wear out my driveline u-joints quicker with the harmonic vibration at highway speed so I'm going to try to just keep it real slow lol
did this, that's how I tested it. seemed like everything worked as expected. with lockers on it seemed that tires were moving at same speed though hard to say 100%.
hmm this is a good point about the spring. i had considered pulling the cover to take a look inside BUT at this point the main...
- had a long drive, noticed some driveline vibrations highway 60+ MPH 1.5-2k RPM (mostly around 1.5-1.6k -- this is a diesel 8th gear)
- shortly after arriving home got a service 4wd light on dash ( i thought this was due a failed repair of the FAD connector harness that broke on trail last yr)...
I'm curious if anyone has this set-up, and specifically their experience using a tire size 39-40" since they say it's designed for a 38" tire.
https://www.relentlessfabrication.com/products/2018-current-jt-gladiator-rear-bumper
&...
These brackets strengthen the rear sway bar mount at the frame side, which is known to be a weak point. Very simple install.
Used only one month. 
Original Price: $79
Location: San Jose, CA
2500 miles on them. Compatible with diesel gladiator only.
Includes shocks, springs and front lower isolators.
Have OEM control arms, track bars and sway bar links that can include for FREE if interested.
$250
Located in San Jose, CA
Full set of Falcon 3.3's for the GAS Gladiator (fronts will not fit diesel)
Fronts: Brand New
Rears: Have 10k miles on them but they're in excellent shape!
Price: $1300
Location: San Jose, CA
you want to see if that quote includes hinges and door jams. the hinges can be very labor intensive: you have one for each door and 2 on the hood. if done right it looks amazing (mine are fulled wrapped). also if you're gonna take off your doors ever than you want to get the door jams included...
i'm more so interested in the angle between the pinion and the drive shaft at the rear axle. i think you had mentioned you were able to match the transfer case to your pinion angle