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figure i'm going to have to drill for the cable anyway, another 2 holes will simply be more reliable in the long run to have it bolted on rather than relying on the 3M adhesive. would rather not have to deal with an adhesive failure and camera hanging off the back of the camper in a few years...

mounting options for the rear of a camper shell? looking to mount directly into the sheet aluminum on the camper just below the brake light/logo. prefer bolt in rather than adhesive. prefer aluminum raters than 3d printed. any off the shelf options for this location? PS, I also have a 40"...

tell me more about that wolfbox mount. very intrigued. looking to do something similar on an Oru Designs camper

So for those of you with the OEM trail cam, how helpful is it to have the second trail cam on the WolfBox? If it is helpful, where are you mounting it relative to the stock trail cam (assuming you have a winch & bumper)

sorry i'm not familiar with these sort of harnesses: - so this plugs into the back side of the harness aka under the bed? - you can still use the OEM trailer plug when towing - how do you tap into the harness to power a 3rd brake light exactly?

I am getting an Oru Designs Bruin installed soon. I opted for the 3rd brake light -- especially since my brake light is covered up by my tire carrier. Any suggestions for wiring it without drilling additional holes in my bed? If it helps I have Oracle taillights and tow package.

I wanted to post my experience with the powerbrake kit. For context I'm in a diesel on 40s, full skids, rear bumper w/ tire carrier, cap, drawer system, RTT. How much does my rig weigh...you don't wanna know. In short, braking was noticeably worse than stock and under repeated heavy braking it...

thanks for sharing! 1) do you know your scale weight fully loaded? 2) did you do any rear brake upgrades as well, if so which?

FOR THE RULES...

PHOTOS: 5 Method MR703 17x8.5 0 offset 5x5 pattern All wheels have scratches from off-roading. One wheel doesn’t balance perfectly due to small area that’s bent. It's very minimal, no significant steering wheel vibrations -- just wanted to mention for full disclosure. All 5 have BFG KM3...

Is this normal?

tried this with a pick and a small flat head, didn't have any luck. it seems like there's a fair bit of contact between the rubber and the metal filler neck. maybe i'd need to get something longer in there....

not at all, thats the problem. i let the clamp all the way out and the hose won't budge.

did you have any trouble getting the metal fill tube off the rubber hose? mine seems to be stuck on there no matter how much i try to twist the rubber off the metal

Not sure if there was ever a change in design or sealing of the fill neck to the rubber tube? Im swapping inner fenders and was trying to pull the whole thing to access it (channel lock method did not work) but the rubber won't budge from the fill neck at all. i ran a pick around the top part...

what's your plan for spare tire? Looking forward to your review...

BUMP -- anyone with real world experience on this one?

do you still have them? would you be willing to ship?

Update: Very weird, I drove over 500 miles with the front driveshaft disconnected and meanwhile the service 4wd light went off. When I got to my destination for the trip I reconnected the front drive shaft and the FAD worked fine. Did over 400 miles off-road & no issues, drove home with...

Adams 1350