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I put the brackets on the top parallel to the truck bed. After a trip to PA with an iLander RTT it worked perfectly, without a single issue, and a great weekend was had.

I have added this to the top, they’re not pictures because they arrived after I assembled the whole thing using inside corner brackets. You can see what I used in the material list I posted They aren’t cast aluminum, they’re a zinc alloy, much more heavy duty. However, I don’t do any crazy off...

I cut the lengths down to 51” for the side to side cross members and 6” for the risers with 27 3/4” for the front to back cross members which made a 48” long rack.Admittedly, I made a few mistakes and broke a tap or two, but you could easily get a fourth crossmember, or longer front to rear...

They’re friction fit and hold the joint great with loc-tight. I haven’t had any issues but I have been considering drilling a hole for a locking pin just for the warm and fuzzys

P i got everything from Amazon. I’ll post a parts list and some measurements. A miter saw will be needed, unless you by everything pre cut which adds to the cost.

You can take the intake off and pop the plastic baffle out of it, this is the charge air piping after the turbo

I think you’re referring to the intake piping, pre turbo, not the charge pipe, post turbo. I’ve already installed an AFE cai with the gold filter. Works and looks great

I never felt the need for a full snorkel and I’m not a fan of the aesthetic but I want my Jeep to breath more fresh air. Next I’ll be replacing the charge tubes but $600 seems a bit steep for aluminum tubing and silicone fittings readily available, especially after looking inside of the factory...

I have always hated the universal fit bed racks on the Gladiators, the angles never compliment the near vertical cab and they cost entirely too much to justify not building one exactly as I want. I used 40x40 T track extrusion to make the frame and misc. accessories to assemble it. It was $400...

I used to run 35s on 15” runs and keeping them balanced was a nightmare. The 20s are never an issue and I don’t off-road to the point where I need all of that tire

4 years and 75,000 miles put some new 35s on them at about 10,000 miles. I love the 20s that come on the high altitude

If you’re happy with how it performs, it’s not necessary. However, the trans tune holds the gears a little longer, locks the torque converter, and downshifts like a manual when slowing.

I don’t feel the need for a pedal commander. However, I have never used one either. I have the trans tune with 50hp ECM tune and love the acceleration and don’t feel any crazy lag

I have a 3.0 eco diesel on 35s with a 2” Mopar lift and during a road trip from Maryland’s to Florida my truck started making an odd noise, like the tire rubbing the fender liner, but only after about 8-10 hours of driving and only when I hit a little whoop on the highway. When I pulled off the...

Wireless CarPlay and Android for the kids on road trips

Your set up looks exactly like what I’m trying to get. But I don’t want that crappy powder coating that hook road uses, I wish they sold them raw metal.

I was getting 19…. My normal daily driving has me at 22 mpg. It’s hard to stay off the skinny pedal these days

I went to mrtuning.ca and got their stage 2, 50hp and trans tune. This is the tune resold by EOC that everyone recommends but EOC is difficult to deal with. I had to buy my exhaust through EOC as mrtuning didn’t have the have the complete exhaust option and almost canceled the order due to lack...

This is why I tell everyone who’s buys the “EOC” tune to get it from MR tuning. He actually writes the tunes, EOC is just a reseller. Martin returns calls and emails next day, even weekends. Martin was a pleasure to deal with